When most travellers picture Seychelles, they see powder-soft beaches and water in impossible shades of blue. And yes, those are here. But beyond the shoreline lies something far more compelling: ancient palm forests heavy with myth, conservation-led private islands, Creole kitchens rich with global influence, and a capital city small in size yet vast in character. From coral regeneration to centuries-old folklore, this Indian Ocean archipelago proves that paradise has depth.
Denis Private Island: Where castaway vibes meet sustainable luxury
We were incredibly lucky to spend two nights at Denis Private Island, the family-owned eco-luxury resort, which is reached via a scenic 30-minute private air transfer from Mahé. Billed as a destination where “barefoot luxury meets purpose-driven hospitality,” this place is walking the talk when it comes to blending top-notch service and amenities with sustainability and a deep commitment to conservation.
The coral islet is a diminutive 375 acres in size, with just 23 beachfront cottages that line the northeast coastline. “Cottage” rather downplays the exceptional accommodation, however. Yes, they’re built in timber sourced from the island, but that’s where the similarity ends.
I was particularly astounded by the open-air bathroom, which featured two showers, a cavernous bath and a private massage cabana. The cottages are spaced to allow for privacy and direct access to the divine, powder-soft, white sandy beach (sunrise and sunset skinny dipping in the Indian Ocean was simply demanded).
But what makes Denis truly special is its vibrant island community and deep commitment to conservation. We took a guided tour run of the island and dropped into the working farm, where almost all the organic food served in the restaurant is raised or grown. Animals, including cows, goats, rabbits, chickens and ducks, are kept, alongside every vegetable crop under the sun. We noticed the absence of heavy machinery — tasks are undertaken largely by hand to conserve power, which is almost completely generated by solar panels. There’s also a large population of giant Seychelles Aldabra tortoises, and a highlight was feeding Toby — at 128 years old, he’s fêted as one of the atoll’s oldest.
We also visited the impressive conservation zone, a rehabilitated forest that cuts a swath across the middle of the island. Here, you can hear and see the results of an ongoing mission to attract birdlife: the Seychelles Warbler, for example, was close to extinction and is now growing in numbers.
As a coral island, we couldn’t leave without exploring below the waves and spent an idyllic time snorkelling around healthy coral exploding with life and vibrant colour. We also glimpsed rare Hawksbill Turtles, who are monitored by a dedicated conservation team. To help preserve this underwater paradise, Denis is introducing a coral-reef regeneration programme this year, which will see star-shaped structures attached to dying coral colonies to encourage new life.
Denis Private Island’s recognition in late 2025 as a Two Michelin Key property seals its status as one of the world’s most exceptional eco-resorts. This will no doubt lead to an uptick in new visitors, and while there’s no danger of it being overrun, now is a good time to go.
Vallée-de-Mai, Praslin: Discover the Seychelles UNESCO World Heritage Site and frisky palm trees
Described as the true “Garden of Eden” by General Charles Gordon in 1881, Vallée-de-Mai Nature Reserve on Praslin Island is an ancient palm forest and one of the world’s smallest natural UNESCO World Heritage Sites. It’s also home to the planet’s largest concentration of Coco de Mer palm trees, and where our cheeky guide, Vincent, gave us an innuendo-filled tour.
In a wild version of “Netflix and chill”, Vincent pointed out the golden-eyed geckos that are key to the reproductive cycle. Attracted by the popcorn scent (which filled the air and reached our nostrils) of the male’s flowers, the industrious reptiles scuttle between the dioecious palms, separate trees with male and female reproductive organs, and carry the pollen back to the female where fertilisation occurs. Even the fruits of the union — the famous Coco de Mer nuts — are a little bit saucy, resembling the shape of a female derriere and hips, and growing up to an average weight of 25kg, with the largest-ever recorded tipping the scales at 40kg.
As the national emblem of Seychelles, Coco de Mer is used as the passport stamp on entry to the country, appears on the currency, and on every type of souvenir. Vincent also told us about centuries-old folkloric beliefs that are still held today, particularly around the nut’s fertility powers. He recalled an incident where one tourist, struggling to conceive, hugged the palm trees and returned two years later to place a gurgling, healthy infant in his arms.
If you’re not interested in falling pregnant, the onsite gift shop sells official Coco de Mer nuts (although you might struggle to get one in your luggage!) and a range of perfumes. But please don’t be tempted to swipe one from the forest floor: the much-loved botanical icon, endemic to Praslin and Curieuse, is on the endangered list, and you can be slapped with a 15-year prison sentence. Our accommodation was rather more elevated at the luxury Indian Ocean Lodge, located alongside the Grand Anse beach.
Mahé: The best beaches in Seychelles, history and encounters with locals
You can easily spend a week or two on Mahé, the principal island in the 115-strong archipelago. It more than lives up to the original name bestowed upon it in the 18th century by the French, Ile d’Abondance, thanks to an abundance of natural beauty, rich culture and fascinating history.
Although ours was a whistle-stop visit, we stayed in magnificent style at the five-star Mango House Seychelles, LXR Hotels & Resorts. The former family home of renowned Italian fashion photographer Gian Paolo Barbeiri, the 41-key resort clings to the coastline in Baie Lazare, on the southwest side of the island and has intimate resort vibes, while retaining a flamboyant artistic flair.
It made the perfect base to explore Mahé’s highlights — the island is just 28km long and 8km wide, and it’s easy to hire a private driver if navigating the roads yourself is not appealing. We did, however, dive into local life by hopping onto the public buses, and while the hairpin coastal roads were slightly terrifying, it was a great opportunity to meet some Seychellois who are super-friendly and helpful to visitors.
Sun worshippers are spoilt for choice when it comes to Mahé’s beaches. There are around 70 to pick from, including the popular Beau Vallon, Anse à la Mouche, and Anse Royale. Our favourite was Petit Anse, a picture-perfect, palm-fringed crescent (above) that is attached to the Four Seasons Resort but can be accessed via a day pass.
Victoria, Mahé: One of the smallest capitals in the world, packed with character
Named after Queen Victoria (the English colonised Seychelles until independence in 1976), the capital city has a population of just around 26,000. Home to the international airport, Victoria is also set against the majestic backdrop of Morne Seychellois National Park and its namesake mountain, the tallest in the archipelago at 900 metres. It’s further sandwiched by the sapphire waters of the Indian Ocean, lending an almost dreamlike atmosphere. Our first port of call was the National Museum of History, housed in the former colonial-era Supreme Court building (built in 1885).
Inside the elegant, plantation-style-shuttered building, we soaked up more than 300 years of Seychelles’ intriguing story via a thoughtfully curated collection of exhibits, including maps and artefacts. Grainy images of East African and Madagascan slaves brought to the islands to work on the cotton plantations by the French — all named after the ship they arrived on — serve as a poignant reminder of this dark chapter in history.
It’s impossible to get lost in the city’s centre, thanks to the cute clocktower, nicknamed “Little Ben” that serves as a handy landmark. The miniature replica of the diminutive timekeeper that stands on London’s Vauxhall Bridge was erected in 1903 and all of the main shopping streets surround it. We browsed the colourful market huts near the clocktower for souvenirs and wandered down Market Street amongst stalls groaning under the weight of fresh coconuts and plantains. The city’s famous Sir Selywn-Clarke Market is currently undergoing renovation, but it’s a must-see if you do visit.
Creole cuisine and cocktails: Down-home cooking and local rum
Along with Seselwa Creole, the French-based language spoken throughout Seychelles, Creole cooking reflects the forces that have shaped the nation. The cuisine is quite literally a melting pot of European, African, Indian, Caribbean and Chinese influences. At Maison Marengo Restaurant in Au Cap, Mahé, chef and former model Charlotte, with cheekbones sharp enough to cut the food she prepared, cooked up a delicious feast of typical dishes for us, such as bread fruit curry, fresh papaya chutney, and red lentil dahl.
Back at Mango House, we took part in a cocktail-making class in the stylish bar, one of many activities the resort offers. The mixologist used liberal measures of Takamaka Rum, produced by the nearby family-owned Trois Frères Distillery, to create several concoctions. And although we questioned his claim that the etymology of cocktail comes from his ancestors using the bird’s tail feathers as a mixing utensil, we were certainly shaking our own tail feathers before too long when the powerful spirit loosened our inhibitions.
Turquoise Holidays is a specialist islands and beaches tour operator, building bespoke holidays to The Seychelles staying at Indian Ocean Lodge, Praslin, Mango House, Mahé and Denis Islands. T: 01494678400 or visit: www.turquoiseholidays.co.uk
Words by Rachel Roberts
Images courtesy of Tourism Seychelles
