To round up our Avani Tribes series, our House of Coco lovebirds return to Northern Italy, where Avani Rio Novo Venice offers a warm welcome and an ideal base for exploring this enchanting city. Nestled in Dorsoduro—the vibrant district where ‘real Venetians’ reside—the hotel perfectly captures the spirit of Venetian life. Blending sophistication with simplicity, Avani Rio Novo provides a quiet retreat in a city where history rises from the canals, and romance lingers on every bridge.
A sentimental return to Venice
The wave of emotions that washed over us as we arrived for our long weekend break was both powerful and unexpected.
It had been eleven years since our first visit and eight years since we last wandered through the narrow streets of this enchanting city of bridges and canals. We are no strangers to nostalgia but it was exhilarating to find our memories of Venice still so vivid.
Needless to say, a lot of water had passed under the bridge (pun intended) since those earlier travels to Venice, each visit having coincided with a significant milestone in our relationship and romantic journey as a couple.
A pre-arranged airport shuttle dropped us off at Piazzale Roma, one of Venice’s main land transportation hubs. While not particularly interesting as an attraction, its proximity to the city’s Santa Lucia train station and Vaporetto stops makes it a starting point for many visitors to the city.
The streets and bridges felt quieter by mid-morning when we arrived. The sounds of our footsteps and suitcases on cobblestone streets echoed as we made our way to our accommodation.
Visiting Venice in its off-peak travel season (we visited in November) has some benefits, not least of which is less crowded streets and attractions.
In addition to the usual summer surge, annual events such as the Venice Film Festival (August/September) and the Venice Carnival (Carnevale di Venezia), which takes place at the end of January or the beginning of February, can be crowd pullers.
Avani Rio Novo, Dorsoduro
After a short 600 meter walk to Avani Rio Novo Venice, we soon came upon this modern boutique hotel, located in the heart of the Dorsoduro district. This would be our base for the weekend.
The exterior of Avani Rio Novo Venice projects Italian Rationalism, its sleek lines and geometric architecture appearing to rise from the misty canals of Dorsoduro.
Inside, the stylish interior offers a warm and inviting ambience. The designers have focused on softening the glass and concrete exterior by infusing the space with elements of Dorsoduro’s artistic heritage and blending it with cinematic history and contemporary design.
Regarded as one of the most culturally rich sestieri (districts) of Venice, Dorsoduro is often referred to as the place where ‘real Venetians’ live. It offers a vibrant nightlife and a laid-back atmosphere that sits on top of crisscrossing streets and picturesque canals.
Relative to the busier and very popular San Marco district, Dorsoduro retains a more local and authentic feel as seen in its eateries, shops, galleries, and artisan boutiques. You will find the Ca’ Foscari University, a former doge’s palace turned school, and the famous Peggy Guggenheim Collection on a stroll through this neighbourhood.
Time travel on the canals of Venice
It is often said that the best way to explore Venice is to simply get lost in its charm!
It was not long before we were meandering through the narrow cobblestone streets and bridges of the neighbouring districts of Santa Croce, San Polo and San Marco.
We stopped in our tracks to peer at masks looking out from storefront windows, watch gondolas drifting beneath arches and inhale lunchtime aromas wafting from eateries and cafés. Each sight wound back the years and refreshed fond memories.
So much has changed in Venice in the eleven years since we first visited. Yet, so much has remained the same. That timelessness is one of the unique characteristics of this city.
In Venice, you feel history all around you. A centre of military and financial power that peaked in the 16th century, the imagination boggles when you realise that this small island state once controlled a republic stretching from the Adriatic coast to islands in the Mediterranean and the Aegean Seas.
Slowing our steps, we found ourselves in the Ghetto of Venice, a historic enclave in the district of Cannaregio where Jews were confined between the 16th and 18th centuries.
Historically regarded as Europe’s first “ghetto,” this ancient Jewish quarter feels like a Venetian time capsule, offering a unique opportunity to journey back in time through the lens of our imagination.
The story goes that the popular liquor, Aperol Spritz, has its origins in Venice. Sipping a glass of this aromatic drink while nibbling cicchetti (“Venetian fast food in lagoon style” according to actor Stanely Tucci) is a popular pastime in the city. Eating while standing up is the way to do this right.
We soon found a family-run Osteria by a canal and settled into a casual routine of observing passers-by and floating gondolas.
Create your own souvenir – Mask making in Guidecca
Leisurely wandering around Venice is pleasurable. We think it is much better, however, to also immerse yourself in its traditions, history and culture. One exciting way to do the latter is to explore the art and history of masks and mask making in Venice.
Wearing masks is a time honoured tradition in Venice. Masks are symbolic of the city’s playful abandonment during the annual Carnevale, celebrating its spirit of artistry, performance and theatricality.
Dating back to the 13th century, masks preserved the anonymity of wealthy people scurrying between buildings and hapless gamblers on a night out at the casino. They heightened the mystery surrounding fashionable young maidens courting the affection of suitable bachelors. They served as the original social distancing tool during epidemics and pandemics. They became a cultural icon!
The art of mask making lives on through the hands and imagination of skilled local craftspeople like Augusto who runs daily Venetian mask making workshops out of his Carta Alta studio.
Taking the vaporetto taxi from San Basilio near Avani Rio Novo Venice to the neighbouring island and old industrial area of Guidecca, we arrived to be greeted by our host. Augusto briefly explained the history of the Venetian mask and shared examples of his handcrafted works which have featured in recent Hollywood movies.
Mask making is the perfect bonding activity for couples.Working as a team over the next hour, and guided by Augusto, we selected mask shapes, accessories, and colours to make our own masks.
This fun experience stretched our creativity and at the end, it felt good to walk away with our own handcrafted mementos of Venice.
The enduring legacy of Murano glass
Buffet breakfast at 8 Millimetri Cicchetti & Wine (the onsite restaurant at Avani Rio Novo Venice) features a quality selection of continental and cooked items. Fuelling up for the day, we made our way by water taxi to the colourful island of Murano to attend a glass making experience.
The ancient glassmakers of Murano were regarded throughout Europe. Their craftsmanship was so prized that the Venetian authorities, in a bid to protect their secrets (as well as remove the fire hazard caused by glass kilns on the mainland), directed the glassmakers to move to the island of Murano where they were tightly monitored.
Many centuries later, the traditions and techniques of glassmaking are preserved by a few hundred skilled artisans. Some of them, like contemporary glass artists Andrea Penzo and his partner Cristina Fiore, have formed art collectives where they exchange ideas and techniques, promote collaboration, and mentor a younger generation of artists in the enduring legacy of glassmaking.
Demonstrating his lampworking technique which uses small but intense flames to work the glass, Andrea gave a short lesson on making the world-famous Murano beads. Our eager eyes followed his methodical movements, admiring his incredible patience as he worked multiple glass materials and colours into different sized beads.
Taking turns to attempt our glass master’s techniques, we chatted with Andrea and Cristina about life in Murano, family, romance and their artistic legacy. As the flames died, we left with our freshly crafted Murano beads packaged and ready for us to assemble.
You will find this glassmaking experience to be more than just another activity. You will be rewarded with a peek into a proud and ancient tradition and into the world of some of Venice’s most talented artists.
A refuge at Avani Rio Novo Venice
Our last evening was spent wandering around Cannaregio visiting landmarks we remembered from our first visit. We allowed that initial wave of emotions to fully envelope us, holding hands as we walked over bridges and pausing to observe the reflection of the city’s lights on the waters of the canals below.
Cannaregio is one of the busiest districts of Venice and is synonymous with tourist traps and heavy footfall. If you are like us, you will appreciate the calmer pace of life in Dorsoduro. Seeking refuge, rest and refreshment, we made our way back to our hotel.
Dinner at Avani Rio Novo’s 8 Millimetri Cicchetti & Wine restaurant offered simple Italian flavours and a chance for quiet reflection; the perfect ending to our reconnection with romantic and timeless Venice.
Are you ready to create your own Venetian memories? Learn more about Avani Hotels at avanihotels.com.
Experience details: Artisan Masks workshop (60 euro per person), Glassmaking in Venice (from 35 euro per person), excluding transport. Experiences are subject to availability but can be booked in advance via email on https://www.avanihotels.com/en/rio-novo-venice/things-to-do
