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Delving into the heart of the evergreen Black Forest

Travel and food writer Baldwin Ho discusses why The Black Forest is the evergreen destination you should be visiting this year

This region of Germany has long exuded a magical quality, thanks to the worldwide success of the Brothers Grimm fairy tales. We take a look at the most enchanting options to consider when visiting this evergreen, picturesque landscape. If you are looking for more natural holiday recommendations, make sure you check out our article on North Karelia, Finland.

Black Forest Open Air Museum

This is a must-visit place if you want to understand the region’s history and culture in a fun, interactive environment. History comes to life at the Black Forest Open Air Museum, which has been lovingly developed as a living museum. It is situated in a remote region between Hausach and Gutach in the Black Forest. Thankfully, there is a train station right next to the museum.

The centrepiece is the Vogtsbauernhof farmhouse, which dates back to 1612. Other farmhouses and historical structures have been dismantled, transported, and reassembled back on-site. They’ve tried to obtain houses from different elevations in the Black Forest to show the varying design structures. Farmhouses at altitude have a less exposed design to protect them from inclement weather.

Old farmhouse in The Black Forest

They host various talks and demonstrations throughout the year. The most popular is the talk on the world-famous red Bollen hats, which have become a regional symbol. Most people don’t know that only three communities in the local valleys are home to the traditional Bollen hat. Single women wear the red Bollen hat from confirmation to marriage. Once they are married, they then wear the black Bollen hats. You can also visit a farm grist mill built in 1609 and used until 1963. You can buy schnapps from the local area. You can try local specialities such as zwiebelkuchen, an onion tart.

Other attractions in Gutach include “Park with all the senses.” You stroll along a carefully curated 2 km path barefoot while encountering touch stations, scent pavilions, etc. It is getting in touch with nature in the purest form. There are not too many options if you want to stay in town, as it isn’t a big city. However, one to consider is Hotel Alexandros im Rössle, which has a superb family-run atmosphere. Their Greek-focused buffet dinner is always popular with the local community.

Embrace wine and nature at Oberkirch

If you travel further north in the Black Forest, you will come across the Renchtal region. This area has scenic vineyards and around 800 kilometres of signposted hiking trails. The tourism board has proactively developed packages that combine the best of those two worlds.

The Oberkirch wine hike is self-guided and allows you to explore the old town area and scale the nearby hills to visit the ruins of “Schauenburg” castle. You have uninterrupted views over the town and the Upper Rhine Valley at the hilltop. On a clear day, you should be able to see Strasbourg. Along the hike, there are four culinary and wine stops where you can try the local delicacies and produce.

The historic wine region has been growing wine since Roman times, as it is the warmest region in Germany. 430 hectares out of the total 550 hectares of vineyards in Oberkirch are owned by farming cooperatives, which benefits small-scale farmers. It is thought that the Riesling vine originated from the Oberkirch district of Haslach. However, there are also 250 hectares of Pinot Noir vines, making it one of Europe’s largest Pinot Noir areas. If you plan to visit in the first weekend of September, you will come across the “Oberkirch Wine Festival”, one of Germany’s biggest wine celebratory events.

Delving into the heart of the evergreen Black Forest

Other attractions in the town include Heimats und Grimmelshausenmuseum, which is situated in the old town hall. It documents the local history and talks about local customs in the Renchtal. If you are looking for somewhere to stay in the heart of the vineyards, look no further than Hotel Pflugwirts, a local guesthouse that has been around since 1840. However, it has been renovated to include modern amenities.

Hotel Bareiss – The Doyenne of grand hotels in The Black Forest

Talking of hotels in the Black Forest, it doesn’t get more luxurious than Hotel Bareiss. The name is synonymous with approachable luxury. The hotel is family-owned, and you will still see owner Hermann Bareiss greeting guests regularly around the hotel. His son, Hannes, and daughter-in-law, Britta, also play prominent roles in the hotel’s day-to-day operations.

The hotel never comes across as flashy, even though it has a 3-Michelin-starred restaurant. They have a shopping passage with high-end brands like Wellendorff specialising in precious jewellery. That is mainly down to their personable staff, who treat you as a close friend rather than a customer. You are treated with the utmost care and attention, whether the President or a random hotel guest.

Talking of gastronomy, they have their half-board restaurant, two à la carte restaurants, and Bareiss, their three-Michelin-starred restaurant offering a showstopping tasting menu. They also have restaurants off-site, such as the restaurant at The Buhlbach trout farm nearby. There is even a shop that sells trout fresh from the smoker and trout roe, which always adds elegance to any dish.

The hotel restaurant I recommend trying is the Dorfstuben, where you can sample classic Swabian and Blackforest dishes. The dishes are hyper-local, so you’ll get choices like venison ham from the Bareiss Estate with preserved cranberries and croutons. Locally foraged chanterelles are served with napkin dumplings. Their Swabian apple fritters are the most luscious hot doughnuts you will ever encounter.

Wellness is a fundamental reason why it is one of the most popular hotels in the Black Forest. It offers seven different pools, ranging from an indoor seawater pool to an outdoor leisure pool with a flow channel and massage jets. The sauna world area has an embarrassment of riches, from a bio-sauna at a constant 60°C to a rose steam bath at 42°C. There is also a cosmetic studio, a massage studio, and a hairdressing salon.

They can advise on nature hikes. They can arrange transport to and from the local station or town. Nothing is ever too much for their concierge and front-of-house team. That is why they are the must-visit hotel whenever you are venturing into the Black Forest. schwarzwald-tourismus.info