Stoke Newington has long been one of North London’s coolest, creative pockets, with a village-like feel and an enviable collection of independent pubs, bars, restaurants and coffee shops. As a long-time resident – and one of Stokey’s biggest cheerleaders – I’m forever boasting that I can find almost any cuisine and a number of hidden gems within five minutes of my front door. So when Calong arrived on Church Street, it felt like another exciting addition to the neighbourhood.
Calong’s Chic Church Street Setting
It’s hard to believe that Calong has only been open for around a year. The petite restaurant on Stoke Newington Church Street, opened by husband-and-wife team Joo and Sujin, has made quite an impression in a remarkably short space of time – earning a Michelin Bib Gourmand and a place on the Financial Times’ Best New London Restaurants of 2025 list, alongside a string of glowing reviews and recommendations.
Joo, who was previously head chef at Michelin-starred Galvin at Windows, and Sujin, whose CV includes The Wolseley, The Delaunay and Fischer’s, have brought their considerable experience to this tiny Church Street dining room, marrying French and European technique with the flavours and traditions of Joo’s native Korea.
The space is simple and effortlessly chic, with whitewashed walls; a chalkboard menu which is concise, changes often and centres around seasonal ingredients; an open bar; and classic bentwood bistro chairs. It’s an intimate setting, with room for around 30 diners, including a handful of outdoor tables – perfect for al fresco dining with a side of Church Street people-watching.
We start with cocktails – I opt for a vermouth spritz, light, refreshing and just bitter enough to whet the appetite – alongside a portion of Calong’s now-famous kimchi fritters. These have featured heavily on social media feeds and for good reason. The bite-sized balls are crisp and golden on the outside, giving way to a soft, warm and slightly ooze-y centre, with the tart, spicy tang of kimchi shining through.
A Taste of Summer at Calong
The starters keep things light and decidedly summery. The cured Chalk Stream trout, paired with Thai basil, cucumber and citrus, is a particularly lovely example of Calong’s knack for balancing contrasting flavours without letting any one ingredient dominate. The trout is silky and gently rich, while cool circles of cucumber and the aromatic Thai basil bring freshness, with segments of blood orange cutting through everything with a bright, zippy acidity. It’s delicate without being fussy, and wonderfully refreshing – exactly the sort of dish you want to be eating on a warm summer evening.
For my main course, Cornish bream comes with mooli jorim – Korean-style braised white radish – and cavolo nero, and the fish is cooked to near perfection. The skin is wonderfully crisp and golden, giving way to tender, light, flaky flesh that practically falls apart at the touch of a fork. The mooli jorim brings a deep, savoury umami richness, while the cavolo nero adds an earthy bite. Together, they make for a dish that feels comforting and hearty without becoming heavy – deeply satisfying, yet still fresh and light enough for a summer evening.
The Standout Side Dish at Calong
I always opt to get a side salad for some crunch, and a special mention has to go to Calong’s kohlrabi, apple and cashew salad, which was arguably the sleeper hit of the meal. The sesame oil-based dressing is both vinegary and gently sweet, coating the crisp vegetables and fruit in a glossy, punchy dressing. With its combination of crunch, sweetness and zing, it was incredibly refreshing alongside the richer dishes – the sort of side salad that you keep going back to long after you’ve finished everything else.
Calong’s Unexpected Dessert Highlight
I’m not usually much of a dessert person. Even in the best restaurants, I sometimes find they can feel a little like an afterthought – a final box to tick rather than the highlight of the meal. Not so here. Calong’s lemon posset was arguably my favourite course, served in an on-trend stainless-steel coupe alongside a delicate choux pastry. Rich, intensely creamy and set to a wonderfully thick, almost balm-like consistency, it had a texture that was deeply satisfying without feeling stodgy. The lemon brought just the right balance of sweetness and tartness, leaving a bright, citrusy finish that was the perfect way to round things off for the evening.
Calong: A Bib Gourmand Worth Knowing About
All in all, Calong feels like a very natural fit for Stoke Newington: small, stylish, independent and confident in what it does. There’s something particularly appealing about settling into one of its outdoor tables on Church Street, watching Stokey drift by while eating food that is inventive without ever losing its sense of comfort. If you’re looking for somewhere cool to see out the last of summer, Calong makes a very convincing case – a little neighbourhood gem that manages to feel both special and completely at home in one of London’s cosiest corners.
