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Brandywine Valley: Visiting America’s Garden Capital

From botanical gardens to nature parks

Less than one hour from Philadelphia is a lush region of Pennsylvania widely regarded as America’s Garden Capital. The prime attraction is Longwood Gardens. It is one of the largest botanical gardens in the United States and draws millions of visitors each year.

With over 1,077 acres of designer gardens, open meadows and woodlands, this is a horticultural wonder of the world. The botanical garden is so vast, that it is divided into six distinct districts. My recommendation is to head there in the evenings to catch the Illuminated Fountain Performances. And focusing on the conservatory district and the main fountain garden district.

With its 19th-century architecture, the conservatory is considered the crown jewel of Longwood Gardens. You might observe delicate bonsais that have been trained to elegant shapes for over 100 years. They currently have a Chrysanthemum Festival that celebrates the arrival of fall. The dazzling arrangements would make even Marie Antoinette at the Palace of Versailles green with envy.

Their Illuminated Fountain Performances are accompanied by a varied playlist ranging from Madonna to the magic of Mozart. It is a 30-minute show that illuminates the skyline with infinite colours and energetic jets of water that pierce the night sky.

A nature park to consider visiting is Valley Forge National Historical Park. It is under 45 minutes away from Longwood Gardens. The park has over 3,500 acres of meadows and woodlands but more importantly numerous historical monuments.

It was the encampment site of the Continental Army during the winter of 1777-1778. It is widely regarded as the birthplace of the modern US Army. You can visit the headquarters of General George Washington and learn how they ultimately defeated the British army.

They have numerous hiking trails to cater for all levels. Biking or trolley tours are also options. Whilst you can even drive your car around the park on a self-guided audio tour.

Countryside culture

UK and European tourists might not have heard of John James Audubon, but a visit to the eponymous center will enlighten you about his undoubted importance. His crowning glory was completing the book, Birds of America. It captures 453 life-sized paintings of North American birds with remarkable colours and vibrancy.

At the museum at Mill Grove, there are countless interactive displays to learn about the habitat, nest, and conservation of native birds.
You can enter a sound forest to hear bird songs in different habitats. And you can use a magnifier to examine different bird feathers up close.

You can see a treasured early edition of the Double Elephant Folio of The Birds of America. You can also view the original copper plate that Audubon used to produce his bird print.

What the museum does very well is not to shy away from the controversy of John James Audubon. There is a section explaining that he was a slave owner, spoke out against emancipation, and killed plenty of birds whilst also contributing to the conservation of birds.

One of the finest museums in the United States is the Brandywine Museum of Art. It has an unparalleled collection of Wyeth and American art. N.C. Wyeth House & Studio Tour is the best way to understand why the Wyeth family has contributed so much to American art.

You’ll learn how N.C. Wyeth found fame from his illustrations of The Last of the Mohicans (1826) and Treasure Island (1883). His son, Andrew found even greater success as a realist painter with masterpieces like Christina’s World. The studio has maintained much of its original character, as your guide will explain how the lighting and the painting ladder helped with N.C.’s work.

In the museum, you’ll find numerous fascinating non-Wyeth masterpieces such as Sugaring Off, Maple by Grandma Moses. She is famously a self-taught artist who started her painting career at the age of 78.

The best places to dine out

Local produce is the key in this region. At Kennett Square near Longwood Gardens, they are the self-proclaimed mushroom capital of the world. Around 50% of America’s mushrooms grow in the vicinity of Kennett Square.

The best restaurant in Kennett Square is unsurprisingly called Portabellos. The restaurant has been run by husband and wife team, Brett Hulbert and Sandra Morris for the last 10 years.

Their signature roasted mushroom soup is incredibly popular with locals. The addition of Madeira wine adds extra complexity to the flavours. Local mushrooms make a guest appearance in a significant number of dishes from their lobster ravioli to their veal forestier.

Finish off your meal nearby at La Michoacana. Their popular homemade ice cream has even drawn visits from President Biden. They have unusual flavours like avocado and cotton candy.

Another restaurant to consider is Founding Farmers at King of Prussia. Their USP is they source all their ingredients and make everything from scratch. This includes their bread to their beers. They have active recycling and composting programs that divert around 90% of their waste from landfills.

The restaurant is at 6 locations on the East Coast and is majority owned by American family farmers. They offer a 5% wellness charge that ensures staff have free mental health resources, access to health insurance and paid sick leave etc.

Their signature dishes include American classics like Yankee pot roast and shrimp & grits. However, their most popular offering is their decadent weekend brunch. They offer a generous carving station filled with the likes of herb-crusted roasted turkey and molasses-glazed ham. And before your meal, make sure you check out the spacious King of Prussia Mall. It is the third-largest shopping mall in the country.

Where to stay

For Valley Forge, I would recommend staying at Tru by Hilton Audubon Valley Forge. It is a casual and welcoming hotel. It is within a short driving distance to key sites like Valley Forge National Historical Park and John James Audubon center. Unusually for American hotels, they offer a complimentary breakfast too.

For Kennett Square, I would recommend staying at the Inn at Whitewing Farm. It is a charming family-run farmhouse hotel. They have 10 romantic guest rooms and suites surrounded by immaculately-maintained grounds. They are situated minutes away from Longwood Gardens.

For more information on the region, please visit –

https://www.brandywinevalley.com/

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City breaks

Celebrating Hauts-de-France, European Region of Gastronomy 2023

Hauts-de-France is the northernmost region of France, an area blessed with hidden gastronomic treasures. It is the most convenient area of France to reach from the UK. The most scenic route is by ferry crossing with the likes of DFDS. You can admire the iconic white cliffs of Dover. They offer links from both Dover to Calais and Dover to Dunkirk. The great news is if you ever encounter strikes at one of the ports, the other is guaranteed to be open.

The crossing takes just 2 hours. They offer fantastic duty-free opportunities. There are no baggage restrictions and they have up to 24 daily crossings. If you upgrade to the premium lounge experience, you get a glass of complimentary bubbles on arrival as well as light sandwiches and snacks.

Your first port of call (after Dunkirk) should be the gastronomic nirvana that is Château de Beaulieu. It is the brainchild of Two-Michelin starred chef, Christophe Dufossé. A stay at the château is more than just their exquisite tasting menus. You can visit their farm and see the vast array of vegetables and fruits they grow from the iconic black garlic of the region to apple orchards that supply your breakfast juices.

Photo courtesy of Catherine Barrier

A morning visit to their bakery will get your stomach juices flowing as you see the buttery treats created in front of your eyes. They have a small farmhouse filled with rescued animals from donkeys to chickens to a very gluttonous pig called Boris. You might spot very artistic photos of these animals dotted throughout the hotel taken by the wife of Christophe Dufossé, who is an avid photographer.

If you speak with the concierge team, they might be able to arrange a visit to a local farm which supplies the lamb to the restaurant. The Boulonnaise sheep is a hardy breed known for its tender pink meat and intense flavours.

The tasting menu at Château de Beaulieu is a showstopping extravaganza. Provenance is vital to Christophe, on the menu, you will find every producer and supplier listed. It is no surprise, that they’ve been awarded a green Michelin star too.

Dishes have a decadent slant from luscious foie gras to an umami-rich handpicked crabmeat topped with caviar. If you want the ultimate dining experience, book the chef’s table, where you pick the freshest market ingredients and the chefs cook based on your discerning choices.

Photo courtesy of Catherine Barrier

For more casual fare, there is the Côté Jardin brasserie with the eye-catching wood-fired outdoor barbecue area. They serve farmhouse pork chops from the local area accompanied by a homemade barbecue sauce.

Another Michelin-starred restaurant with fine accommodation to consider is One-Michelin starred, La liégeoise and Hotel Atlantic. It is based in the attractive seaside town of Wimereux. Here you can catch the most captivating of sunsets whilst admiring locals frolic on their compelling, sandy beach.

Photo courtesy of Sophie Stalnikiewicz

Whereas in British seaside towns, you might be thinking of fish and chips; here it is haute seafood. Dishes they serve include a quinoa risotto with razor clams, champignon and a charred until crispy royal sea bream.

There is an embarrassment of riches in terms of local food and drink producers to visit. You can visit Clairmarais beer brewery to sample abbey-style beers. Their beers are refreshingly light compared to their Belgian counterparts nearby. Although little remains of Clairmarais Abbey, you can still see the superb farm, which mostly dates back to the 17th century.

If you are a fan of Genièvre, you can visit Houlle distillery. It was founded in 1812 and is still run by the same family. There is a quaint, antique charm to the rustic nature of the distillery. They’ve been winning countless gin awards throughout the last few years. Although you’ll learn even though it is a juniper-flavoured traditional liquor, the taste can vary across the spectrum of gin to a whisky.

Cheese lovers should head to Les Freres Bernard. Apart from having a wide selection of local, artisan cheeses, you can visit their factory to see the production process. The recommended times to visit are Monday-Friday in the mornings. Provenance is also a key part of their process and you can see where their local cows come from.

They will be more than delighted to let you sample their offerings. The one to consider buying is the local speciality, Mimolette. It is a sharp but not overly powerful cheese with rich fruity and nutty notes. The cheese is famously banned in the US because of the presence of cheese mites.

There are numerous activities in the region which will appeal to the young and the not-so-young. A canal tour with Les Faiseurs de Bateaux along the Audomarois marshes is a must.

It is a UNESCO Biosphere reserve. They have over 200 bird species, 13 bat species, 29 fish species and close to 400 plant varieties. The incredibly rich soil has meant locals have been cultivating in the area since the Middle Ages. Garlic, onions and hemp were the most popular crops.

A canal cruise can include a meal on board and a workshop, where you visit a shipyard of the last boat makers in the Audomarois marsh before boarding a bacôve.

Finally, before sailing back to the UK, you must make time to visit the Calais Dragon. The mechanical creation is a fire-breathing, water-spouting dragon machine. It was created by the theatre company La Machine in Nantes.

Photo courtesy of Marion Harmel

It is handled by at least 5 machinists and you can ride on top of the dragon for a 47-minute ride through the waterfront of Calais. There are other creatures in the design phase which will accompany the dragon in the future.

You can also enjoy lunch at the Dragon Shed with suitably themed burgers and mocktails to accompany your experience.

If you are looking for a short gastronomic break away from the UK, why would you not consider Pas-de-Calais? It is extremely easy to get to by ferry with the likes of DFDS.

For more information on the region, please visit –

www.visit-pas-de-calais.com

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Hotels & Spas

Welcome to the exceptional at The Grand Hotel Brioni – a gem in Croatia’s Istrian Peninsula.

Entering the luxurious lobby of the Grand Hotel Brioni – all marble finishes, sumptuous seating areas laden with curated books and artwork and a brigade of perfectly presented staff ready to welcome – the tone of your stay is set – elegant, refined and luxurious minus any pretension or stuffiness. As check in is completed and luggage ushered to rooms, I found it hard to focus on the welcome speech as eyes on stalks kept drifting to the expanse of the sapphire blue Adriatic that lay just beyond…

There are two types of people in this world – those that are desperate to get to their hotel room, unpack, explore the nooks and crannies of what the room has to offer, a jump on a bed here, a flick of the coffee machine there. And there are those that grab their key, throw their hand luggage on the bed, grab the swimwear that was packed in said hand luggage for easy access and run to the pool / sea as soon as possible. I am the latter. Hurrying down to the terrace that I had spent so long pawing over via instagram posts, nothing quite prepared me for the sheer majesty of the vista bestowed upon me. An infinity pool that tumbles into the clearest, blue water, cabanas and loungers sitting atop expertly carved rocks in a way that makes them look as if they are part of the natural landscape and a breathtaking view of the neighbouring Brijuni islands peppered the horizon. The location of this hotel is pure drama – as you would expect for a place that once hosted the Hollywood elite.

Taking in the expanse of water and craggy coastline, I could feel any stresses in both my body and mind ebb away – a feeling that would continue to establish throughout my stay thanks to the hotel’s clever design choices. The Grand Hotel Brioni has recently undergone a £30 million renovation. Taking inspiration from the natural surroundings and with a focus on local artists, the design of the hotel far surpasses that of just aesthetics (although it has that in spades) but the cleverly curated colour palette is one that restores the soul. It is hard to imagine that the use of blue throughout the hotel is just a coincidence when the colour is known for its calming effect and benefits on mental health. The way the external natural world melts into the modern, almost brutalist in design hotel through colour is a stroke (no pun intended) of genius. The bright blue Croatian sky disappearing into the azure depths of the Adriatic which gently laps up the contrastingly stark white cliffs. The turquoise infinity pool, perching on top of them, over looked by rooms and restaurants alike. Carpets, furniture and even glassware are drenched in blue tones as if world outside has seeped in, bringing with it a sense of still and serenity. Trickling through to the bedrooms, accents of blue head boards and even the complimentary blue flip flops and Acqua Di Parma toiletries (reason enough to go), it is near impossible to escape the feeling of balance these design choices invoke yet it is done with such subtlety you don’t realise you are tumbling through this dreamlike state until you leave the hotel and are expelled back in to the stark reality.

Drift away…

The hotel offers 227 rooms and suites but due to careful mapping and a plethora of open areas, it nevers feels busy or crowded. Cabanas hidden amongst rocky outcrops and lavender bushes, cosy corners within bars and winding paths carved into the cliffs further cement the feeling of intimacy and exclusivity.

Staying in one of the ‘Collection Rooms’, a balcony was forgone for additional square meterage but with french windows offering a Juliette balcony and views over both the garden and ocean, it didn’t feel like a compromise as the feeling of outdoor living and swathes of natural light streaming in were plentiful. A king size bed that felt like a cloud and came with a pillow menu ensured the deepest of sleeps and a marble laden bathroom complete with rainfall shower sets guests up for the day.

Well thought out touches such as specially designed espresso cups to accompany the Illy coffee machine and the ‘Butler’s Corner’, a room on each floor that provides an alternative to a mini bar, where guests can go and choose their goods and swipe their key card – helping combat wastage whilst furthering enforcing the feeling on individuality and the bespoke.

Hotel eats…

The hotel boasts four restaurants offering a wide variety of food meaning even the most discerning of diners are catered for but all with a key focus on local produce whether that be a specially curated wine list featuring some of Croatia’s finest wines (I didn’t know this was a thing either until I got there and was pleasantly surprised), exceptional olive oil (might I dare to say, better than Greek) or fish landed from nearby waters.

The Brioni Forum (taking its name from the Forum Square in Pula) is the epicenter of the hotel’s eateries, offering breakfast, lunch and dinner with a buffet style format and a whopping 280 covers at any one time. Given the reputation of a Radisson Collection property, I was expecting slightly higher things but then reminded myself, “this is a buffet for 280 people and I am yet to go to a hotel that does it well”. The choice is extensive but it all lacked the ‘wow’ factor and for a hotel that boasts the tagline ‘Welcome to the Exceptional’, everything needs to be well… exceptional.

Sophia is the fancy pants eatery where both hotel guests and non residents don their finest and flock. Specially imported marble topped tables, parquet flooring, light fixtures that double up as works of art and a terrace offering sunset views set the scene. An open kitchen centered around a Josper oven plays stage to a brigade of chefs all armed with tweezers and sauce spoons, opposite a wall heaving with fine wines and Champagnes – it is opulent, it is heady, it is everything a luxurious grill restaurant should be.

We were treated to chef’s choice which included focaccia, whipped butter and gin & whisky infused salt followed by one of the best steak tartare I’ve ever had, accompanied by heady truffle butter and nasturtium. Of course the main was a variety of cuts of steak to showcase what the restaurant had to offer and included cuts from both America and France and sides of proper chips, potato mille-feuille and a plethora of steak sauces. Call me crazy but I am still to get my head around why a European restaurant would ship in a cow all the way from America when they have perfectly adequate bovine in nearby fields – personal preference of meat locality aside, the steak was cooked well and washed down with the incredible Medea Punta Greca, a Croatian Merlot, I was content. The meal was finished with a creme brulee, minus the brulee – more a dusting where there should have been a crust, but the addition of crumbly butter biscuits to the thick, unctuous custard worked well.

The gastronomic highlight for me was the unassuming Brioni Lungo Mare. A laid back outdoor restaurant overlooking the ocean offering fresh fish and light lunches. The decor giving nods to the European holidays we all know and love, tables painted with designs of lemons and florals and white metal chairs perched under parasols. A light lunch of pan fried sea bass with crisp skin, sitting atop a zingy lemon risotto with freshly shaved asparagus complimented by a light and fresh Croatian rose is what ocean side dining is all about. I greedily watched other plates come out of the kitchen all looking wonderful – giant prawns and heavily doused caesar salads making me wish I had a second (and third stomach).

The main lobby bar is a sophisticated affair and perfect for sundowners and nightcaps alike. The cocktail list is as extensive as it is innovative and definitely worth a work through.

The Bioni Giardini bar sits just behind the infinity pool and offers relaxed plates as well as an incredibly well stocked ice cream bar which is well worth a visit or five.

Spa time…

The self titled and completely just jewel in the Brioni crown is the Gemma Di Brioni spa. Literally – it boasts treatments utilising local gemstones to promote wellness and clarity. Spanning 1300 square meters across two floors and offering indoor pool, cold water whirlpool, three saunas, steam room, rain showers, relaxation lounge complete with salt wall and a menu of revolutionary treatments said to draw on the minerals available from the surrounding natural world including the aforementioned gemstones and algae, it is truly magnificent and somewhere you could happily spend a day. To the point that this sun worshiper was almost praying for grey skies so she could enjoy it without compromising baking time.

Looking beyond the hotel…

A mere twenty minute drive away is Pula town, a must for history buffs and culture vultures. With one of the six best preserved Roman amphitheaters in the world and winding streets to get lost in and watch the world go by, it is the ideal place to spend a day exploring and steeping yourself in ancient history. Restaurants and cafes line streets and market squares, be sure to try local dishes of ox and of course, the seafood on offer. A short drive from here is both the Chiavalon Olive Oil farm which offers tastings and tours and the Medea Winery where you can try a variety of wines paired with delicious local charcuterie and cheeses – an absolute must.

Flights to Pula are less than two hours from UK airports (we flew from Stanstead) making this relatively unsung but glorious destination the perfect spot for a quick get away, although be warned, you will want to spend more than a couple of days absorbing everything it has to offer.

Prices for the Grand Hotel Brioni start from €290 per room per night based on a B&B stay in a Collection Room with Garden View.

Find out more about Grand Hotel Brioni here

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Accessories

Slow down in Santorini

New to Santorini’s hotel scene is NOŪS, a unique resort that draws inspiration from the island’s traditional architecture and natural surroundings. Its suites and rooms are beautifully integrated into the landscape, using materials and textures that have been part of the island’s heritage and style for centuries. Santorini’s rich history is woven through every space but given a contemporary flair that feels modern and fresh.

NOŪS boasts an exceptional spa with 5 treatment rooms, indoor and outdoor pools, sauna, steam bath, cold tank, gym, and a special outdoor yoga area. The team of highly skilled therapists are dedicated to guiding guests on a personalised journey of wellness. NOŪS’s aim is to offer exclusive wellness treatments dedicated to the principles of ‘Ef Zin’ (Eυ Zην, the Greek principle of ‘well-being’), with a holistic approach to spa treatments that will replenish and rejuvenate your mind, body and soul.

In addition to the spa, is the Vitamin Bar, a sanctuary of health and nourishment where a variety of fresh salads, revitalising juices, wholesome cereal bars, invigorating smoothies and traditional Santorinian products will keep you energised.

You can also unwind at the resort’s poolside bar and lounge, or savour a delectable meal at the in-house restaurant, Elios, a delightful Italian-American chophouse specialising in prime steaks crafted from locally sourced ingredients hailing from Santorini and the Cycladic region. Inspired by the trattorias of Little Italy, the menu at Elio’s evokes a nostalgic spirit with its selection of specialty dishes from classical Italian cuisine.

Wine enthusiasts will delight in Santorini’s renowned white grape varieties and guests are invited to indulge in a wine tasting experience alongside their stay, savouring the exquisite regional wines and bestowing an opportunity to appreciate the rich oenological heritage of Santorini and elevating your wellness journey through the pleasure of wine.

Owned by modern-art collector Dakis Joannou, the YES! Hotel Group is the first hotel chain to introduce this concept of contemporary style to the Greek hotel space. With its array of 119 rooms and private suites nestled within an expansive architectural masterpiece that offers breathtaking vistas, exceptional culinary delights, and a tailored wellness journey, NOUS Santorini stands as your ultimate destination for holistic wellbeing and mindful living.

For more information visit NOŪS Santorini

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Hotels & Spas

Wake Up Here: Fairmont Taghazout Bay

Set on the golden shores in one of most idyllic spots of Morocco’s Atlantic coast is Taghazout Bay, a fishing village turned surfing and luxury travel destination.

FAIRMONT TAGHAZOUT BAY

A mere 30-minute drive away from Agadir and you find yourself in one of Morocco’s most spectacular locations. Nestled along this spectacular coastline with breathtaking sea view vistas and mountain views is Fairmont, Taghazout, the new luxury hotel on the Moroccan coast.

THE VIBE

From the stunning beach, to the hotels outstanding amenities with a slice of old Morocco this fantastical oasis is the stuff of luxury wellness reverie, where serenity combined with leisure offers peaceful yet unforgettable moments. If you’re after a chic (but immensely relaxing) and private sanctuary away from the bustle of Agadir, Fairmont Taghazout, bay is the smart option for heat-seeking sophisticates.

THE STORY

The first luxury resort to open in the former fishing village of Taghazout, Fairmont is a mere two years old, and is undoubtedly a big part of the renaissance of the area, accelerated no doubt by the emergence of speedy air links with the UK and Europe.

At Fairmont Taghazout, you don’t have to choose between luxurious wellness and culture – get the best of both worlds and fuse your much needed break with programmes that will nurture your mind and body. Whether you start the day with early morning yoga on the rooftop terrace, catch the surf in the afternoon or sip sundowners against a backdrop of the Atlantic ocean, this is the new luxury hotel on the Moroccan coast to know.

Facing the shores of the Atlantic Ocean, Fairmont is sultry, seductive, and almost otherworldly, and provides the perfect escape for luxury seeking travellers whether you’re an aspiring yogi, or a burnt out professional hoping to switch off, or couple after a relaxing romantic break

STAY IN STYLE

Fairmont Taghazout offers 146 sundrenched rooms, suites and villas, all facing the sparkling sea. The property’s sienna hued walls blend into the local landscape and the hotel is sprawled across acres of beautifully landscaped grounds, stretching along along the sun-baked coastline. The decor is exquisite, with light coloured furnishing and wide expansive spaces creating a spacious and inviting feel in the lobby and communal areas.

The understated, luxury design extends across the hotel’s rooms, all of which are capacious and flooded with natural light. All rooms have their own private balcony with views that are as breathtaking as you can imagine. Bathrooms are cavernous with vast walk-in showers and large standalone bath. Plump for a room in the buildings closest to the beach, they’re worth it for the sea views and the sight of camels lolloping along the beach. Undoubtedly, this sprawling resort cuts a striking figure in this unassuming enclave, for decades recognized as Morocco’s surfing capital.

DESTINATION DINING

Your day at Taghazout begins with breakfast at The Commons where giant pastries and an impressive buffet menu awaits. There is also a live cooking station where the chef can whip you up perfectly poached eggs or indeed a breakfast dish of your liking.

A must try is a local dish called m’semen which is a kind of Moroccan pancake that is served warmed and topped with amlou, a tasty spread made of almond paste, argan oil and locally sourced honey.

Sitting adjacent to the hotel’s main pool is Beef & Reef restaurant, the resort’s surf and turf option where the signature beef and reef burger will stun you by virtue of its sheer size. The crab salad is by far the stand out dish here, a delicious wobbly creation of crab encased in mango jelly, passion fruit coulis, nori.

Beef & Reef fully capitalises on its privileged position overlooking the beach so your lunchtime meal will be punctuated by the sight of horses galloping through surf, people playing beach football or intrepid surfers taking on the waves.

Morimoto is the hotel’s main restaurant which comes alive at night time when the beautiful people descend in droves to gorge on the impressive Japanese menu with Moroccan influence.

This outpost is Chef Moromito’s first restaurant in the African continent. Inspired plates include braised black cod with sweet ginger soy and the Crab spring rolls with fig chilli sauce are also divine. Oenophiles will relish the restaurant’s impressive wine list with the local rose being a stellar choice to accompany most dishes on the menu.

The latest and most exciting addition to the impressive roster of restaurants at Taghazout Bay is the newly opened Tapa wine bar. Situated on a prime rooftop position with breathtaking views of the Atlantic, Tapa takes fusion cuisine to the next level combining Iberian, Moroccan, Italian Turkish, and Lebanese influence. Diners can indulge in dishes including crispy bruschetta with burrata, red onions and anchovies, the mouthwatering moutabal with pistachio or the unforgettable polpo alla gallega with baby potatoes.

TAILORED WELLNESS

With 1800 m2 sized spa, Fairmont Hotel Spa is a destination in its own right. Created in a unique and authentic style it is the largest within the destination with breathtaking ocean vistas and transportive treatments to rejuvenate guests. You can’t visit this spa without experiencing the traditional hammam which is a rigorous affair that involves an invigorating exfoliation followed by a generous basting of oil that will leave you with a baby soft skin.

In addition to the hamman, the facility also has massage rooms, a gym, and for the committed yogis, classes are held in the nearby gardens. Moroccan traditions and products including local oils are at the heart of each spa treatment.

ECO

Fairmont Taghazout is a zero plastic use resort which is a true testament to their commitment to sustainability. The honey that is eaten in the resort is locally sourced and bought from local cooperatives. All 146 rooms have automated aircon and lighting is kept soft to minimise energy use. They’ve also spearheaded a programme called planet 21 whose mission is to keep the local beaches clean.

A stay at Fairmont Taghazout is a real immersion into the soul of Morocco, from its selection of globally-influenced restaurants to authentic, insider experiences in and around Taghazout bay.

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Afternoon Tea

High Seas High Tea at The Landmark London

The grande dame of luxury 5-star hotels in London, The Landmark has recently undergone a major £1.3m refurbishment. Part of that project is to launch a brand-new luxury Champagne Bar. It is on a mezzanine level on their famous garden terrace. The vision of tropical palm trees and the eight-storey-high glass atrium recalls a bygone era of glamour and high society. The Champagne bar designed by Alex Kravetz Design is created to blend in with the luxurious surroundings. The main bar is hidden under a foliage-laden glasshouse. The furnishings have a mixture of vibrant greens, blues, and gold that transports you to the Jazz Age era.

Accentuating that imagery is their High Seas High Tea offering. The hotel offers a traditional afternoon tea at their famous Winter Garden Restaurant but at the Champagne Bar, it is very much seafood-focused. It is available every Saturday and Sunday between 1:00 pm and 5:00 pm. You will also hear the melodic piano sounds emanating from the Victorian Winter Garden atrium. They use the term ‘sandwiches’ but what is served up at the beginning is more tartlets of umami delights from the sea. They offer a tartlet of Scottish lobster, a tartlet of poached langoustine, salmon pastrami, Cornish white crab and yellowfin tuna. Focusing on local produce, the freshness of the seafood is top-notch. The salmon and tuna exuded healthy omega-3 fattiness, whilst the shellfish had a gentle sweetness when you bite into the firm, fresh meat. Each creation has been carefully crafted to maximise the flavours of the seafood. For example, the yellowfin tuna is served with ponzu, black sesame, toasted rye, and fennel butter. The citrus notes from the ponzu are a match made in heaven with the enticing tuna.

The fruity flavours were very much in evidence with their scones and desserts. The scones were either freshly baked apple or raisin scones. All the condiments you would ever need were present from clotted cream to a plethora of jams. The options included Bergeron apricot, London marmalade, strawberry, rhubarb, redcurrant & vanilla and raspberry deluxe. Each scone was generously sized and I have no doubt, they would offer you a refill if you asked.

The desserts were exquisitely presented with a parade of appetising colours. If you are looking for something subtle and delicate, there is the tartlet of nectarine, ginger, mascarpone and raspberry gel. The nectarines were sliced with military precision and presented in an intricate rose shape. If you are looking for textural variety, there is the black cherry and pistachio bakewell. The key is all the creations were sweet without being overbearing. And they do offer boxes for you to take away anything you can’t finish. They only use the finest of ingredients from Valrhona dark chocolate in their choux to English strawberries in their Swiss rolls.

The tea offering also shines brightly in this regal afternoon tea experience. They have green teas, herbal teas, oolong tea and white tea. That includes very high-end options such as Snow Buds white tea. which is high-altitude-grown white tea made entirely of silver-haired tea buds. That creates an elegant, sweet-flavour profile with delicate vegetal notes.

The afternoon tea is available at £75pp or £88pp with a glass of Ruinart Champagne Brut.

If you visit in the evenings, they do still offer seafood-focused small plates, as well as heritage tomato tart and British cheese plates. They also serve a caviar selection that ranges from platinum caviar to the rare, golden oscietra. They have a lengthy Champagne selection that includes on the top end, Krug, Grande Cuvée MV. They can offer a Taittinger Champagne flight, which is 100ml per glass which is great if you want to pair your glass of bubbly with your seafood.

If you want to impress friends or family with a special treat, do consider inviting them to a High Seas High Tea at The Landmark London.

To find out more about the afternoon tea, please visit

https://www.landmarklondon.co.uk/dining/champagne-bar/

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Hotels & Spas

Wake Up Here: The Grand Universe Lucca

Introducing you to the Grand Universe Lucca hotel in Lucca, Italy.

Centrally-located and impressively elegant, the Grand Universe Lucca hotel in the pretty city of Lucca certainly packs a punch!

Part of the prestigious Autograph Collection, the Grand Universe Lucca is at the heart of the city in an ideal central location of the main square, the Piazza del Giglio.

This grand palazzo has been elegantly transformed into a boutique hotel and like Lucca itself, has an illustrious musical heritage with the likes of jazz legend Chet Baker and opera legend Giacomo Puccini having graced the hallowed corridors.

The city of Lucca is housed within the famed city Renaissance walls and the hotel with its honey-coloured facade overlooks both the Piazza del Giglio and the Piazza Napoleone and is conveniently located to a great selection of shops, cafes and restaurants.

Lucca’s storied past blends effortlessly with its contemporary decor which is opulent with plush fabrics, warm hues and more.

As you enter into the hotel, you are greeted by a grand piano in the main entrance which forms part of the Symphony Lounge. There are live music recitals here, but we didn’t have the opportunity to partake in this during our two night stay.

For those really looking to make their stay at the Grand Universe a memorable one, you can even commission the resident pianist to compose a piece of music as a soundtrack for their stay at the hotel for guests on request which is just one of the ‘Autograph Collection’s highly unique tailored experiences.

There are 55 rooms and suites all of which are categorised by Lucca’s rich musical heritage) which include a standard room named ‘Piccolo’ to the more luxurious and spacious Maestro and Puccini Suites.

Our suite, a Maestro, was on two levels, with a living area with high ceilings with beams and parquet floors, an expansive set of wardrobe and storage, and a shower room with a large walk-in shower on the ground floor.

There were wooden stairs leading up to the mezzanine level where you’ll find a king size bed and yet another bathroom with a sunken bathtub sympathetically decorated in soothing shades of grey paying homage to the Lucchese stone typical of this city.

The ceilings are high and the windows large giving a real sense of space and light. It almost has the feel of a stylish apartment as opposed to a hotel room and it is a relaxing oasis to retreat to in the city.

The hotel’s restaurant – The Legacy offers a fantastic selection of dishes that take traditional Tuscan creations and reimagine them. The restaurant is small in stature, but the cuisine really packs a punch. We enjoyed eating alfresco and listening to the sounds from the Lucca Summer Festival which was taking place during the duration of our stay.

You can choose from a great selection of dishes which includes beef tartare, grilled octopus, cured meats from the region for starters. There’s also some impressive main courses such as Tuscan ragu, fresh pasta and more. Make sure you head upstairs to the tiny champagne bar where you can enjoy some of the best panoramic views of Lucca.

The Grand Universe Lucca is a sumptuous, yet understated hotel that has effortlessly blended the old with the new making this an absolute joy to check into.

Double rooms at Grand Universe Lucca, Autograph Collection are priced from £220, room only.

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Hotels & Spas

Wake Up Here: Renaissance Tuscany Il Ciocco Resort & Spa, Italy

Introducing you to the Renaissance Tuscany Il Ciocco Resort & Spa in Tuscany, Italy

Nestled in the rolling Tuscan hills, the Renaissance Tuscany Il Ciocco Resort & Spa makes for an unforgettable and idyllic rustic retreat.

It’s remote, once you are there unless you have a car or access to a taxi, you are pretty much confined to the resort as nothing is within walking distance, but if this doesn’t faze you and a ‘do nothing’ kind of holiday appeals, then this four-star hotel will certainly appeal.

The biggest draw to this hotel and spa resort is the spectacular scenery which is simply spell-binding. It’s set on a lush green hilltop surrounded by over 1,500 acres of land which includes the Serchio Valley.

The nearest town Barga is just a short drive away where you can find a great selection of shops, bars and restaurants.

Everything you need is at this mid-Century Marriott-owned resort including a rather sublime spa. Expansive is an understatement, it feels huge despite only having 180 rooms and suites.

Upon arrival, you are greeted by a small selection of shops and the resort entrance with its warm terracotta exterior and terrace which overlooks a large azure-hued swimming pool.

Most of the rooms afford awe-inspiring views of the pristine Serchio valley making it quite the impressive wake up call when you open up the shutters first thing in the morning.

At night, the expansive skies are filled with stars with the surrounding towns lights twinkling in the distance.

The 180 rooms of the hotel are spread across two buildings and over seven floors. All are elegantly finished with a blend of traditional Tuscan styling and contemporary touches.

We stayed in a delightful junior suite which had a large bathroom complete with tub, a huge walk-in wardrobe (with his and hers bathrobes), seating area and a super-soft king sized bed.

There’s also a large balcony with those all-important valley views, ideal for enjoying a cup of coffee in the morning.  Each room has lovely touches of detail including plush armchairs, crisp white linens and a lovely marble bathroom.

One of the main attractions is the spa which has a superb selection of both traditional and more wellness-oriented spa treatments.

From relaxing massages to invigorating scrubs and streamlining wraps, if you are looking to reach an inner (and indeed outer!) state of zenned out bliss, you are most certainly in the right place.

Guests can also take advantage of both the heated indoor pool, sauna and steam room as well as the aforementioned outdoor pool.

There’s also a gym and a tranquility-inducing relaxation area for those wanting to take a slightly less active approach.

The hotel’s main restaurant is Le Salette which serves up a fantastic selection of typical Tuscan dishes which includes a pretty mean risotto.

The waiting staff both at dinner and breakfast are absolutely first-class and made every effort to give us a magical experience. Dishes include an intriguing octopus tentacles on purple potato, salmon tartare, saffron risotto, Tuscan style soup, potato gnocchi and honey-glazed duck breast.

Whilst some might feel a smidge cut off, there’s something truly timeless and liberating about this hotel which really allows you to unwind. If stunning views somewhere that is truly special is high on the agenda, make sure you head on over to this off-the-beaten-path valley and rellllllaaaaxxxxx.

Check in: Double rooms start from £130  per night (not including breakfast)

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Hotels & Spas

Wake Up Here: Fairlawns Boutique Hotel an oasis in Johannesburg

Chaos is a word best use to describe what ensues at Johannesburg OR TAMBO Airport upon landing after an arduous ten-hour flight from London.

Johannesburg itself is a vibrant, energetic smorgasbord of sights, sounds, smells and tastes- a veritable melting pot of sensorial delights. If all this starts to become a tad overwhelming though, then you’ll find plenty of calm at the Fairlawns Boutique Hotel.

Before it became a boutique hotel in 1997, Fairlawns was previously a ten-acre family home which had everything from stables, training rinks, cow, geese and dogs too. This warm, cosy atmosphere still permeates throughout the now luxury hotel which has won a slew of awards from best spa to best restaurants from the likes of TripAdvisor, Joburg Awards and Luxury Travel Guide.

We were greeted by the doorman ‘Doctor’ upon arrival to the hotel’s grand driveway. Interestingly we met a lot of South Africans during our stay whose names portrayed professions or virtues their parents wished upon them. We also met a lovely lady named ‘Patience’ and another called ‘Joyful’. Beyond their names – they were memorable of course due to their excellent service, which is something that this luxury hotel can certainly be proud of.

The Fairlawns Boutique Hotel is located in the sleepy suburbs of Sandton which is the Central Business District of Johannesburg and near to all its main cultural sites. The estate is made up of individually-designed suites that exude elegance and grandeur – with the Grand Chateau Suite the pièce de resistance of the whole estate.

We stayed in one of the Courtyard Suites, which wrap a picturesque colonial-style courtyard that is the perfect place for a stroll. Picture Palladian-inspired suites, high-ceilings, four-posted beds, French windows and sumptuous fabrics and textures and generously sized bathrooms.

The interiors are elegant but punchy. Unlike other luxury resorts who embrace a rainbow of neutral tones, Fairlawns Boutique Hotel embraces the rich colours and textures of Africa but with a French manor house touch. Victorian-inspired portraits, French chairs and a veritable greenhouse of orchids are dotted throughout the space creating an ambiance of eclectic sophistication.

The lobby opens up to the Manor House Bistro which blends indoor and outdoor dining spaces and opens up to the striking outdoor pool. The restaurant offers a creative menu filled with international dishes that are perfect for all day dining. This is also where the excellent breakfast is served.

While it wasn’t yet opened during our visit, Fairlawns Boutique Hotel has teamed up with French Champagne house Perrier-Jouet to offer guests a refined luxury Champagne experience in-house. The new space is inspired by nature and connects to the beautiful Courtyard – which is a great spot to enjoy some bubbles while watching the African sunset. Truly – finding a place like Fairlawns Boutique Hotel amidst the hustle and bustle of Joburg is a true rarity indeed.

A night at one of the Courtyard Suites at Fairlawns Boutique Hotel starts at R9,400 (£391) on a B&B basis. For more information visit https://fairlawns.co.za/

Tel: +27 (0) 11 808 7300

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City breaks

Wake Up at the Martinhal Lisbon Oriente for an invigorating city break

The first thing I noticed setting foot into Martinhal Lisbon Oriente was the fragrance. Deep but light; warming and calming. It was instantly inviting and straight away made me feel happy to be there. The kind of feeling that automatically eases your shoulders down an extra inch and is an indication of the relaxed elegance that permeates the hotel. Smiling welcomes from each of the staff, plus the eye-catching art from local artists dotted around the lobby all added to the feeling of a laid back yet fun lux and I knew that I was in for a great mini-break.

Invited as part of a press trip to visit the newest Martinhal property, Martinhal Lisbon Oriente, located in the Parque das Nações district in the east of Lisbon; an area of the city that has been gradually building a reputation for culture; street art, the Oceanarium, a plethora of restaurants and bars and of course the famous cable cars that run parallel to the river past the Water Gardens. In contrast to the historical old town, Parque das Nações is modern, cool and urban.

I usually reside in the tranquil and lush rolling hills in the heart of the beautiful English countryside but from time to time I enjoy a change of pace – a bit of adventure, perhaps a little sun, a bit of experiencing another culture, and it goes without saying, exploring new foods so I leapt at the opportunity to pack my laptop, swimsuit and sunglasses to head to Lisbon, one of the coolest cultural capitals of Europe. In 2018 I spent a week exploring the south of Portugal and ever since Lisbon has been high on my travel list; the climate, the food, the architecture, the history, did I mention the food? Pastel de nata! Salt cod! Cherry liquor!

The first port of call upon arrival was to sit in the garden of the restaurant, Terrace, for coffee, cake and local pastries. Newly constructed as a living building with foliage inside and out, Martinhal Lisbon Oriente is an Oasis within a city boasting panoramic views of the vast river and Europe’s longest bridge. The Terrace has a huge open kitchen where you can see the chefs preparing the fresh menus daily. Taking the theme of being in the eastern part of the city, the menus are based around the concept of “looking east” with lots of fusion from the Middle East, India and Asia – and of course, lots of daily caught seafood. Mesmerised, I watched a chef roll sushi – which then to my absolute delight was served to our table. At lunch I chose the pan fried stone bass on a base of quinoa mixed with avocado and green mango, cut in a brunoise with surgical precision which was every bit as good as it sounds. As a chef who loves dining out, it’s important to me that food delights on the plate – you have to enjoy the dish before you take the first mouthful; a mantra clearly shared by Terrace’s kitchen team. Over the weekend I also ate such delights as Thai beef salad, spiced broccoli pakora, burrata with pineapple chutney and honey, black cod with pak choi that was accompanied by a moreish miso sauce poured at the table, veggie spring rolls, chicken satay skewers. Even the on site baked bread came with hummus, labneh and flavoured oils. The food throughout the trip was consistently flawless, whatever meal of the day it was. With a wide selection of local wine on the menu and seasonal cocktails available in addition to juices, smoothies and non alcoholic cocktails – everyone is thoughtfully catered for which seems to be the MO of the Martinhal brand.

Historically designed for families, Martinhal put connection at the heart of everything they do; for parents on holiday with their children, being able to relax and reconnect mean their children are also relaxed. No matter the age; from the trampoline outside in the garden to the organised activities and babysitting services, there are a plethora of things to do and everything has been thought of. As someone without children, a “family friendly” hotel wouldn’t necessarily be my first choice for a holiday but interestingly, I found Martinhal Lisbon Oriente more grown up and slick than venues not designed for families – quite simply because the way Martinhal have curated this niche is so successful that in comparison to other places where children are left feral to run around screaming, burning off their energy, here both the family unit and the individuals the unit consists of are considered meaning in fact I barely noticed that there actually were children around and among the slick furniture, the neon art and the sun loungers.

Martinhal Lisbon Oriente is slightly different to its other properties in Lisbon and Portugal in that The Parque das Nações district itself is relatively new. Having been purpose built for the World Exposition in 1998 the area has a lot of business travellers plus people from all over Portugal and the world for events at the Altice Arena and again, the thoughtful details, the commitment to connection, Martinhal Lisbon Oriente have built a full business suite, including glass soundproof pods, for digital nomads like me who just want to explore the world while working.

We spent time as a group being looked after and touring not only the Parque das Nações but the old town as well. From the hotel, you can easily reach by foot the second largest aquarium in Europe, a fantastic private boat tour to Belém where if you’re as lucky as us you may glimpse dolphins in the Tagus River as you sip on a glass of Vino Verde and even get to wear the Captain’s Hat as you take on the role of skipper (which I highly recommend for a memorable Instagram moment!). You can participate in street art walking tours and walk to a multitude of restaurants – though you could easily eat every meal for a week at Terrace and never feel that your inner epicure is missing out. A short car ride away you can be in the historical centre browsing little boutiques, marvelling at the architecture and snacking on pasteis de nata or salt cod fritters with a side of chilled white port.

While having dinner at the other Lisbon based Martinhal property, Martinhal Chiado, I sat next to Roman, one half of the husband and wife team behind the brand who talked to me at length about the connection that they are trying to nurture and the importance of quality time, be it as part of a family on holiday, or a digital nomad taking advantage of technology and the freedoms it can afford. The rooms are furnished with kitchens and even washing hidden away machines in the rooms bringing an extra level of freedom and flexibility and making it perfect for long or short term stays.

At the Oceanarium there was a sign quoting “nothing lasts, nothing’s finished, nothing’s perfect” and isn’t that life itself in a nutshell; always in motion, the sands of time rushing away. The best we can hope for is to find moments to build memories; to strengthen connection; to each other, to the land, to the food on our plates. And as a foundation for that desire, Martinhal Lisbon Oriente is about as close to perfect as it is possible to get.

https://www.martinhal.com/locations/residences/

Martinhal Lisbon Oriente offer rooms from studios to suites perfect for short and long term stays for solo travellers, families and world explorers

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