You are always taken on a journey with Raf Simmons, each show delights the mind more so than the last; bringing flashes of a previous decade, revamped and reworked with a Parisian no fuss, chic. His AW14 Ready-To-Wear collection was no different, this time we were elevated back and entertained by a minimal 80’s workwear feel, kept effortlessly cool in a monochrome palette, layered with punches of primary colours.
The models instantly owned the runway in reconstructed matching two piece power suits, ranging from a luxe aubergine to double breasted teal and black trouser versions skimming the body in a fluid motion. Bright double breasted wool overcoats in peach, magenta and canary yellow sat on the shoulders or draped across the arm, screaming a statement with the flourishes of colour rushing past every second.
It wasn’t just the trouser suit grasping your attention. Bare legs and knees flirted against the winter weather in thigh high dresses with fluted hems, and slinky layered skirts with thigh high slits revealing a brighter layer underneath; pink over green, yellow on pastel pink – no combination too garish. Teamed with a plunging neckline, Raf reworked the frumpy image left of the 80’s power suit. Keeping only the power they behold to the wearer, he’s added an exuding sex appeal to a formerly sexless wardrobe staple. Huge quilted puffball skirts in candy pinks were transported to 2014 by a striking minimal silhouette, leaving sleeves oversized and necklines simple.
The idea of the female commuter going to and from work in clunky trainers was completely overthrown by a hybrid pointed pump with a neon-wedge trainer sole being the only footwear allowed. From the front, you saw a sophisticated, glossy, monochrome shoe complete with a daintily high ankle strap. From behind, a flash of yellow sole was visible from the wedged heel of the trainer, bringing a funky young edge to the look. Accessories were kept simple with structured, boxy handbags in bold primary colours and long, simple evening gloves up to the elbow. Slicked back straight hair and strong shades of blue eyeshadow splashed across the eyelid on a seemingly bare face. One thing is for sure; Raf lets the clothes do all the work.