Beyond Northern Ireland’s better-known cities and coastal landscapes, County Fermanagh offers a quieter kind of escape. Here, Lough Erne is the main attraction. This network of waterways is dotted with islands, steeped in history, and ideal for travelers looking to trade busy itineraries for a destination where time seems to stop.
While Fermanagh has long been associated with golf, there’s another side to the region for the slow traveler, including a lakeside escape where the landscape is as much a part of the experience as the hotel itself.
Discover Lough Erne by Water
The best introduction to a Fermanagh getaway is from the middle of Lough Erne.
My husband and I joined the Erne Water Taxi Island Discovery tour to do just that, with two crew members sharing stories (and banter) about the lake and the history of Enniskillen as we floated between its islands. Our boat was fully electric, reflecting the company’s focus on sustainability, and their covered design was welcome on the day we visited, when the sky decided to introduce us to the region’s wet weather.
The lake itself is atmospheric enough here to justify the trip on its own, but the history makes it even more interesting. We passed the remains of Enniskillen Castle, learning about the Maguire dynasty and the changing fortunes of the area. We also heard stories about the pranks played by students at nearby Portora Royal School, whose alumni include literary greats, Oscar Wilde and Samuel Beckett.
The lake also had a role during World War II as home to Royal Air Force flying boats, including the Catalinas that patrolled the Atlantic. When one of our guides learned we were American, he made a point to tell us about the U.S. Navy connection. Ensign Leonard “Tuck” Smith was serving as co-pilot and observer aboard the Catalina that spotted the German battleship Bismarck on May 26, 1941.
As we made our return to the dock, passing underneath the 1885 Erne Bridge, the oldest bridge in the town, a kingfisher swooped into view. “Well, that’s a lucky sight,” our skipper said, his eyes scanning the water for more. The flash of blue was the perfect sight before returning to the heart of the city, a glimpse of nature and a hint of what was to come.
We wandered around the town for a bit, ducking into a few independent shops and cafes as the rain started to fall harder. From here, we were headed to a very different side of Lough Erne, trading Enniskillen’s streets for the secluded lakeside setting of Finn Lough.
A Luxe Lakeside Escape at Finn Lough
Tucked into the Fermanagh countryside beside the lake, Finn Lough feels designed around the idea of disappearing. There are plenty of things you can do here, from cycling and walking the forest trails to kayaking on the water, but the real luxury is having nowhere you need to be.
We were invited to experience their Elements Trail, an immersive series of treatments and thermal experiences tucked into individual cabins among the trees.
The experience begins with a float in a salt pool before moving outside to a lakeside sauna, where you can escape the heat with an invigorating dip in the loch. We were both brave enough to take the plunge twice. Next came a steam room with herbal aromatherapy and then an outdoor hot tub, where two glasses of prosecco were waiting for us.
The final stop was a relaxation room, outfitted with tea, snacks, and cozy lounging spaces. This is where we really gave ourselves over to rest, at least for our 20-minute time slot.
The setting makes the experience. Rather than feeling like a conventional hotel spa, you feel immersed in the landscape. Everywhere you look, the forest and the lake surround you, and experiences are timed as such that you likely won’t encounter another person until you’re done. That’s a different kind of luxury.
Cocktails, Foraging and Dinner at Lasair
Finn Lough’s sense of luxury isn’t limited to its setting. There’s a strong emphasis on local ingredients and experiences, and one of the people who brings that to life is Barry Botha, the property’s food and beverage manager, bartender, and resident forager.
Barry makes bespoke sodas and cocktails at the house bar, experimenting with ingredients that change by the seasons, whether that’s warming spices in the winter or botanicals in the spring and summer. Dinner is served just above at Lasair, an airy space where every dish is meant to be shared.
We started with the server-recommended mushroom tart and whipped goat cheese before moving on to the mains. The barbecue chicken was a standout, accompanied by grilled broccoli with nut relish that had just the right amount of char, smoky, and slightly crisp. Dessert was a strawberry cake and chocolate ganache.
After dinner, we headed to Finn Lough’s vintage movie room for a screening of a quirky choice for the setting: a Marlon Wayans comedy, complete with freshly popped popcorn. There was something wonderfully old-fashioned about ending our day at a lakeside retreat this way rather than another round of cocktails or some carefully curated evening entertainment.
Your Room Comes With a View
We stayed in one of Finn Lough’s newer Cove Suites, where the rooms are relatively compact but open directly onto the lough’s edge through floor-to-ceiling glass. On a warmer day, the windows can be opened to blur the line between indoors and out, with the reed beds practically at your feet. For an even more immersive stay, Finn Lough is also known for its Bubble Domes, which offer panoramic views of the surrounding forest and night sky.
Even with the cooler weather, we could watch the lake stretch out beyond the glass from bed. We passed on a morning soak at the seasonal Shoreline Spa in favor of coffee and breakfast in our suite with that view, followed by a long walk along the property’s forest trails. There was something particularly lovely about making the most of the peaceful surroundings.
Don’t Leave Before Elevenses
The following morning, there was one final reason not to rush out the door to Belfast, our next stop: elevenses by the bay.
Served in a beautiful lakeside setting, the brunchtime service comes with coffee or tea, a cake of the day, and the option of a mimosa. We sat by the water, watching the breeze move across the lake, the rain threatening but giving us that moment.
It was a fitting end to our stay at Finn Lough, as the real luxury isn’t the spa, the cocktails, or the lakefront properties. It’s the opportunity to slow down enough to actually enjoy them.
What About Golf?
Golf is still a major draw in County Fermanagh, and there are some impressive properties built around the sport. We also spent a night at Lough Erne Resort while in the region. Here, the golf course is central to the experience, and the resort has all the amenities you’d expect from a golf escape.
If golf is the priority, Lough Erne is an excellent choice. If the idea of a lakeside escape sounds more appealing, Finn Lough would be mine.
And perhaps that’s what I liked most about Fermanagh. You don’t have to experience it at full speed. You can spend the morning on the water, disappear into the forest for an afternoon, linger over dinner, and finish the day beside the lake. In Fermanagh, the luxury is allowing the landscape to set the pace.
I traveled as a guest of Tourism Northern Ireland and Tourism Ireland. For more information on planning your own Fermanagh getaway, visit Ireland.com or Discover Northern Ireland.
