Giambattista Valli has a secret to success with his couture shows, it’s not the metre upon metre of tulle fabric for the underlining of a full-skirt, but his consistency to dress the female body elegantly whilst still upholding a modern and flattering approach to couture. Whether that means a well tailored silky suit, finished off with a mohair fur jacket, or a corseted bodice with a skirt so full it would make any future bride green with envy. Valli realises that the modern woman has different desires and needs with her approach to clothing and couture now which he caters to brilliantly. As wonderful as it would be to wear floor-sweeping silk gowns every day, we can’t always do that. Valli provides that alternative for us in the form of well crafted slip skirts, and luxe two-piece suits ever delicately embroidered with dainty silk daisies, a desire that the modern woman can crave but still wear.
In keeping with Valli’s consistency, we were met with a repetition of ever-cool, ever-relaxed faces shaded with retro round clear sunglasses, their hair covered with chic white hair turbans. The collection offers an eclectic mix of stylish monochrome prints, simple clean cuts, busy detail and traditional gowns alongside modern tailoring. Necklines are kept modest with simple bustiers and bandeau dresses, whilst finishing off with sheer skirts allowing the black body suit to be kept visible beneath.
“The secret of my girls is that they’re always eccentric. They don’t play it. They are.”
– Giambattista Valli before the show.
Their is an air of innocence to the princess like, knee-length, full skirted gowns with flowers embroidered across the bust and skirt. Mixing it up, crisp white silk shirts are tucked into flamboyant taffeta ruffled skirts, oozing in swathes of fabric and block colour from powder blue, canary yellow to flamingo pink.
The collection screams over indulgence; a floor length black and white fur cape that Disney’s Cruella DeVil would be proud of, hangs loosely and simply over the shoulders of a black halter neck gown with thigh high split. Yet more fur with a lilac knee length fur coat cinching the waist in with a thick white belt, followed by ruffles upon ruffles for the colourful finale. Valli is proving couture can mean so much more than just a gown…