For those searching for the ideal skincare routine, skincare is more than just a way to keep our faces clean; it’s a real moment in our day. As a beauty journalist, I’ve tried countless skincare products, but persistence and consistency are crucial to any good skincare routine. You don’t need a 12-step routine with expensive lotions that often promise more than they deliver; a considered approach with skincare that works for your skin type is far more valuable.

I’ve quizzed some of the most insightful skincare experts, from sensitive skincare brand BySarah founder Sarah Murrell to the owner of the top London skincare clinic, Adona Medical Clinic, Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme. Along with a bit of patience and a good routine, a knowledge of ingredients can help you build a skincare routine that works for you. A few other vital takeaways: facial mist is a godsend for hydration on the go, be wary of active ingredients and how they work together, always take your makeup off, and yes, the order of your skincare routine does matter.

Any skincare routine will be amplified with the right lifestyle choices. “Healing and balancing the skin takes time and requires a holistic approach,” Sarah Murrell told us. As a functional medicine academic and BSc student, I recommend paying attention to your diet, lifestyle, and overall well-being, alongside a consistent and effective skincare routine, to foster long-term skin health.”

Finally, stress is terrible news for your skin. There’s no point in devising the right skincare routine if you’re consistently spiking your cortisol levels with unhealthy stress. A little adrenaline is good for us, but if stress levels are at the point where you’re not getting enough sleep or it’s affecting your happiness, it’s time for some intervention, whether that means lifestyle changes or seeking professional help. Your skin will thank you for it, too.

Ingredients 101

Leading skincare expert Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme shares a quick guide to some of the most popular ingredients to use in your skincare routine:

• Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): Helps reduce inflammation and improve the skin barrier function.
• Centella Asiatica (Cica): Excellent for calming irritated skin and promoting healing.
• Hyaluronic Acid: Provides deep hydration without irritation.
• Ceramides: Help restore and maintain the skin barrier.
• Arbutin: for hyperpigmentation and dark spots
• Azelaic acid: for redness and sensitivity

And what should we avoid? “There is no one thing everyone should avoid. Skincare products are tested to ensure they are safe and effective for us,” Dr Ifeoma told us. “If you have any allergies, ensure these are avoided. If your skin barrier is irritated or you have extremely dry and irritated skin while your skin is healing, you may want to avoid essential oils and fragrances as well as abrasive exfoliants.”

Your morning skincare routine

Corina Sava, Skin and laser expert at The Door W4, has devised an example of a simple morning skincare routine. ‘A good morning routine is a great way to ensure that any skincare you use during the day will penetrate the skin more effectively,’ Corina explains.

Step 1: Cleanse: We recommend starting your day by thoroughly cleansing your skin. Cleansing in the morning is essential for removing excess sweat, bacteria, sebum, and dead skin cells, which, if left, can clog pores. Massage into the skin, ensuring that any makeup or residue is removed. Remove using cotton pads or a clean, soft flannel. 

Step 2: Vitamin C: Vitamin C is one of the most effective antioxidants on the market, providing environmental skin damage protection and visible anti-ageing benefits. Introducing a good Vitamin C serum is a great way to reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and discolouration, leaving the skin brighter and more luminous. We suggest applying 4-5 drops daily by pressing the serum onto the skin with your fingertips.

Step 2: SPF: Did you know that 80% of skin ageing, fine lines and wrinkles are caused by Sun Damage from UV rays? Many don’t know that we should wear SPF 50 daily, even in winter. SPF products help to protect your skin against harmful UV rays that, in turn, can lead to skin damage, including pigmentation, premature ageing, fine lines, wrinkles, sagging skin and, in extreme cases, skin cancer. We suggest applying roughly two full finger lengths of SPF 50 to the face and neck and reapplying every few hours during periods of high exposure.

Step 3: Collagen Drink Supplement:  By implementing a collagen supplement into your routine, we can help restore healthy, youthful skin from within. The benefits of collagen include reducing fine lines and wrinkles and improving gut health to reduce skin conditions such as acne, rosacea, and eczema.

Your evening skincare routine

Step 1: Cleanse: We recommend starting your routine by thoroughly cleansing your skin. Cleansing at night removes excess dirt, oil, debris, pollutants, and makeup residue. Massage into the skin, ensuring that any makeup or residue is removed. Remove using cotton pads or a clean, soft flannel. Many prefer a double cleanse in the evening; one cleanse to remove makeup and another to clean the skin.

Step 2: Exfoliation: (2/3 times a week) Exfoliation is a key component in your skincare routine, and it has many benefits, including smoothing the appearance of uneven texture, targeting dull skin, nourishing and hydrating the skin, and helping with cell turnover. Exfoliation can mean a product with a grainy textured scrub, but acid toners (think AHAs, glycolic or are commonly used to exfoliate the skin gently.

Step 3: Actives: Introducing active ingredients into your skincare routine is the key to improving your skin health. Firstly, you should seek professional advice before you introduce any active ingredients. Retinol – a form of Vitamin A and one of the most popular active skincare products on the market – is a powerful product that can help to speed up cell turnover, which leaves skin looking brighter and smoother. It also aids in the production of collagen and elastin. Only use retinol-based products in the evening, as they can make the skin more sensitive to sun exposure, which may lead to pigmentation.

Step 4: Moisturise: Apply a nourishing moisturiser to complete your evening skin ritual. This will leave your skin looking and feeling more hydrated and brighter. Use gentle, upward motions to massage the moisturiser into your skin, helping to improve circulation and relaxation.

You could also finish with a facial spritz to lock in moisture before bed.

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Finding the right skincare routine for sensitive skin

Sensitive skin needs more thought regarding a skincare routine, with gentle and soothing products that won’t upset the skin’s balance. We asked BySarah founder Sarah for her advice on how to build the right skincare routine for sensitive skin.

What is sensitive skin?

‘Typical sensitive skin concerns include rosacea, eczema, and dermatitis, often characterised by redness, itching, and inflammation. A loss of skin barrier function is associated with dry skin caused by insufficient sebum and increased TEWL,’ Skincare expert Sarah Murrell told us.

‘Our research at By Sarah led us to discover NMF (natural moisturising factor), found in the stratum corneum, that helps ensure optimum skin moisture levels. With this understanding of the naturally occurring compounds in the outermost layer of the skin, we include certain ingredients in our formulas that are chemically similar to the skin’s own NMF, helping to prevent TEWL (for example, black oat extract in the BySarah Balancer Cream Cleanser).

For sensitive skin, look for soothing and anti-inflammatory ingredients. Our expert recommends:

• Aloe vera or chamomile
• Barrier-repairing ingredients like nature-identical niacinamide (vitamin B3) and panthenol (vitamin B5) that deeply moisturise and aid skin barrier function

Why do we get sensitive skin?

‘Our research shows that sensitive skin concerns are often a consequence of immune-mediated, lifestyle or genetic factors, resulting in weakened skin barrier function,’ he explains. ‘Even subtle disruptions in skin barrier function significantly increase sensitivity, making the skin more susceptible to damage from environmental aggressors and even certain potent skincare ingredients, such as retinol.’

Example skincare routine for sensitive skin

Sarah recommends the following routine as a skincare routine for sensitive skin:

1. Gentle cleansing: Start with a gentle cleanser like our Balancer Cream Cleanser. It cleanses without stripping the skin or disrupting its delicate oil and pH balance. This formula is a beautiful balance of plant oils and moisture-boosting actives, which is what your skin needs to stay healthy and hydrated.

2. Fragrance-free hydration: Opt for a fragrance-free moisturiser or hydrating mistto keep skin comforted, soothed and hydrated all day long.

3. Hydrating facial oil: Our Hero Facial Oil is made with cold-pressed plant oils and soothing Vitamin E, this luxurious lightweight face oil delivers a natural glow, revitalising and nourishing skin to leave it looking and feeling radiant.

4. Nighttime care: To help your sensitive skin overnight, reach for our Bakuchiol for skin that cannot tolerate topical retinoids. The natural plant oils, Vitamin E and Bakuchiol in this powerful booster help promote collagen synthesis, deeply hydrate and leave your skin radiant.