MasterChef fans will recognise Stu Deeley, who won MasterChef: The Professionals back in 2019, winning judges over with his bold takes on modern British cuisine, fusing world flavours with the classics to create unique dishes. The chef is currently Executive Head Chef at Mallory Court’s The Warwick, bringing his signature style to the country house hotel. Stu has already impressed critics and diners alike with the precision of his cooking and ability to make dining feel theatrical and indulgent without being too performative.
The Warwick is an intimate restaurant with a classic dining room theme, surrounded by the beautiful kitchen gardens at Mallory Court, where much of the produce for the dishes is sourced. The dishes are rooted in the land, with dishes drawing inspirations from the seasons, as well as childhood memories, regional cooking techniques and traditions, and the experiences the chef has gathered throughout his career.
House of Coco writer Lauren Kate Hughes sits down with Stu Deeley to find out the inspiration behind his menu at The Warwick, his ultimate comfort food options, early food influences and his top advice for amateur chefs.
Stu Deeley, what’s your favourite thing on the menu at The Warwick?
Well, two signature dishes stay on the menu all the time. This is not something I believe in, per se, as I like to change the menu to keep it fresh and keep people coming back. But there are two dishes that, whenever we take them off, people are like, “Well, where’s this dish gone?” So we’ve got the lobster with the Thai green sauce and black pudding, and the Baked Alaska.
The lobster is a riff on a dish I did for MasterChef – it was langoustine with black pudding, pork belly, and yuzu, and it just went down a storm. It’s had a lot of iterations over time, whether it’s scallops or lobster or langoustine, normally some kind of shellfish. And then the Baked Alaska started as rhubarb and custard initially. We’ve done raspberry. We’ve done clementine and gingerbread. Hibiscus and rose – we’ve done all sorts.
So I take it you’re a big fan of retro desserts?
I think with desserts, a lot of it plays into nostalgia. You look at desserts that you ate as a kid and think that was delicious, and it’s still delicious now. Bar Angel Delight – a bit of a weird texture as an adult, but I did like it as a kid.
What other kinds of food did you like and enjoy growing up?
I remember eating Chinese food and Indian food; foods from all over the world. In Birmingham, because we’ve got such heavy migration, it allows you to try so many different things. You don’t realise until you’re a bit older that actually you’re privileged to be in that position to have eaten something like Indian food from the age of probably about four.
What’s your takeaway order?
I’m still a massive sucker for a KFC. We even had a KFC at lunchtime today! You need that kind of release. You spend the day finely chopping things and manicuring things to be absolutely perfect for the plate. You then need to switch off and eat a bargain bucket.
What does comfort food mean to you?
I’m a sucker for a takeaway. Sometimes we overcomplicate food as chefs; we try to do too many things with it, and try to make it too fancy, and try to be arty with it. Sometimes you just need it to be what it is and make it delicious. Pick food that’s coming from a good source, cook it well, season it well, make sure it’s hot – and that’s it.
What’s the best piece of advice you would give to people when they’re cooking at home?
A lot of the time, a lot of the mistakes that happen – even in professional kitchens – are because you’ve not thought out what you need in advance. If you’re making a sauce, start thinking about getting the colander to strain it through into another pan.
For example, adding the butter in at the right time is crucial to get the right consistency of the sauce, but a lot of people will leave chopping the butter to the last minute, can’t find a knife, then can’t find a chopping board, and then all of a sudden it’s chaos.
Another tip – always wash up as you go.
What makes a good host?
I think good hosts are warm people. They’re generous, they’re excitable about whatever they’re presenting. We had an Indian family who lived a few houses up from us, and they would invite us round to eat. On reflection, it was quite simple food, but it made it so much more interesting because they’re enthusiastic about it. Other cultures are often very joyful about their food, and they’re happy to represent it.
Having good quality produce makes all the difference – so having a bit of a backstory about this, this piece of meat comes from this farm or this butcher or whatever else. It gives more meaning to the meal. Some of the best memories you have will be sitting around a dinner table, eating something delicious, you’re having a few glasses of wine, you’re having a laugh, you’re having deep conversations, and those are some of the most interesting conversations that you’ll ever have.
Interview by Lauren Kate Hughes
Images: Mallory Court and Lauren Kate Hughes
Need to know
Mallory Court Hotel & Spa is home to The Warwick, a new restaurant by award-winning chef, Stu Deeley. With menus inspired by British heritage, bold seasonal flavours and the finest local produce, it’s where tradition meets innovation, and every plate tells a story. Due to limited capacity, the hotel strongly recommends making a reservation before arrival.
Rooms at Mallory Court start at £120 a night. You can find out more on the Mallory Court Hotel & Spa website.
Like this? Take a look at our guide to the best seafood restaurants in London, the best oyster restaurants in London for a special occasion, written by a shellfish enthusiast, or our brilliant guide to the best Asian restaurants in London, with advice on how to recognise authentic cuisine beyond the postcode hype.
