House of Coco’s Editor in Chief, Jennifer Pearson, embarks on her first journey to Morocco, discovering the vibrant souks of Marrakech, the tranquillity of a traditional riad, and the unforgettable flavours of Moroccan cuisine. From where to stay and what to eat to the city’s must-see sights, this article explores one of North Africa’s most captivating destinations.
Discovering Marrakech
Marrakech has long been a favourite among discerning travellers, and it continues to attract culture seekers, food lovers, celebrities, and design enthusiasts in equal measure. The city blends Arabic and Berber heritage with a sensory overload of exotic sights, sounds, and smells.
Set against the dramatic backdrop of the High Atlas Mountains, Marrakech balances centuries of history with an unmistakable contemporary energy. The city is often described as a place of contrasts, and nowhere is that more apparent than between the bustling medina and the modern districts of Gueliz and Hivernage.
I approached my first trip to Morocco with equal parts excitement and curiosity. I’d heard plenty about Marrakech’s medina, the historic, walled district at the heart of the city. We spent most of our time getting lost in its sprawling maze of winding alleyways and souks, the vibrant, traditional markets within the city’s ancient walls.
Marrakech boasts one of the largest traditional markets in Africa, and wandering its passages, too narrow for cars but not for the odd motorcycle, is an experience in itself. Artisan workshops sit beside spice stalls, jewellers work a few doors down from leather craftsmen, and generations-old family businesses carry on traditions that have been passed down for centuries. We came away with leather belts, silver earrings, argan oils, turmeric, and hand-spun scarves, among other finds. The colours and smells shift from neighbourhood to neighbourhood — from roasting meat at street stalls to pungent spices to the sharp scent of freshly worked leather.
Images by Jennifer Pearson
We’d been warned that first-time visitors might find it overwhelming, but the atmosphere was genuinely welcoming. Shopkeepers were friendly rather than pushy, and getting lost is very much part of the fun. Because the buildings are tightly packed, you walk down ochre-coloured streets in a shifting patchwork of sun and shade, past stunning ancient arches and cool shaded tunnels. Day or night, Marrakech felt safe, vibrant, and endlessly fascinating.
Other highlights of our time in Marrakech included the Bahia Palace, a sprawling architectural masterpiece of vibrant tilework, cedarwood ceilings, tranquil courtyards, and lush riad gardens. We also took time to stroll through the Jardin Secret, a botanical oasis in the heart of the city with Islamic gardens, fountains, and plants from around the world. And no visit is complete without time at Jemaa el-Fnaa, the city’s famous central square — the heartbeat of Marrakech, alive with musicians, storytellers, and the infamous snake charmers. Everywhere we went, there was a sense that the city was proudly balancing preservation with progress, particularly as it prepares for major international events including the 2030 FIFA World Cup.
The Riad Experience
Tucked behind unassuming doors in the labyrinthine streets of the ancient medina, Le Farnatchi is an authentic Moroccan riad and a wonderful spot to retreat to after a day exploring the city. The moment you step inside, the noise of Marrakech fades away, replaced by the gentle sound of fountains, the glow of lanterns, and an intimacy that immediately sets it apart. With just ten suites, entering Le Farnatchi feels more like being welcomed into a beautifully curated Moroccan home than checking into a hotel. It offers an ideal central location and a traditional base for exploring Morocco’s most captivating city
Image by Jennifer Pearson
To really immerse yourself in Marrakech, staying in a riad is essential. These traditional Moroccan homes are built around inner courtyards, and Le Farnatchi occupies a beautifully restored courtyard, hidden within the medina’s ancient walls just steps from the magnificent Ben Youssef Madrasa. Originally opened in 2004 by British hotelier James Wix and his family, Le Farnatchi helped establish the modern luxury riad concept that has since become synonymous with Marrakech hospitality.
At the heart of the property is a courtyard pool framed by carved archways, intricate tilework, and flickering lanterns. In the evenings the space takes on a cinematic quality, drawing guests together for drinks or quiet contemplation.
The sprawling rooftop terrace is another standout spot. With multiple seating areas, gardens, and panoramic views across the medina rooftops and distant minarets, catching the sunset here quickly became one of our favourite daily rituals.
Our Suite
Our suite was spacious, beautifully designed, and full of Moroccan charm. A large bedroom led to a separate sitting room with a fireplace, and a balcony overlooked one of the property’s serene inner courtyards. We even had a secluded private courtyard accessed directly from the bedroom, which served as a quiet sanctuary for morning coffee.
Throughout the suite, traditional Moroccan craftsmanship was everywhere: handcrafted tiles, carved plasterwork, antique architectural details, and rich textiles echoing the architecture seen across the city. Traditional Moroccan slippers and a fez awaited our arrival, and other small touches made the stay feel personal.
Images by Jennifer Pearson
Hospitality with Moroccan Flair
The service at Le Farnatchi was exceptional throughout. From the moment we arrived and were welcomed with traditional Moroccan mint tea, the staff were warm and attentive, offering thoughtful recommendations and proactive assistance. One evening, as we headed out to dinner, a member of the team personally guided us through the medina’s maze-like streets to make sure we reached the restaurant without getting lost. We hadn’t asked. It’s simply the property’s approach to hospitality.
Each morning we savoured Le Farnatchi’s breakfast, served in a quiet room off one of the inner courtyards. Beside a crackling fire, we worked our way through Moroccan pastries and breakfast specialties before heading back out into the souks.
Image by Jennifer Pearson
Dining at Le Trou Au Mur
A stay at Le Farnatchi would be incomplete without dining at its sister restaurant, Le Trou Au Mur, located just across the alleyway. It has earned a reputation as one of Marrakech’s most distinctive dining destinations, and rightly so. The setting is romantic, with candlelit tables, elegant interiors, and a rooftop terrace showcasing enchanting views across the medina.
Our meal began with seven traditional Moroccan salads served tapas-style, a wonderful introduction to the country’s flavours. Then came the tagines: slow-cooked stews of tender meat simmered with aromatic spices, olives, preserved lemons, and vegetables, arriving at the table bubbling beneath their distinctive cone-shaped clay lids. We also sampled briouats — crisp pastries filled with savoury ingredients and paired with sweet chutneys.
The food throughout Marrakech impressed us with its freshness and depth of flavour, but Le Trou Au Mur elevated the classics with particular finesse. It’s easy to see why the restaurant has become a destination in its own right.
Images by Jennifer Pearson
The Verdict
Our first visit to Marrakech was a delight. Around every corner lies another hidden courtyard, artisan workshop, rooftop terrace, or centuries-old architectural treasure. Le Farnatchi captures that same spirit. It offers the luxury and comfort expected of a high-end property, but in a way that feels personal and deeply embedded in the city. The riad draws guests into Marrakech’s rich culture while providing a peaceful sanctuary whenever the excitement calls for a pause. For travellers seeking an authentic yet luxurious medina experience, Le Farnatchi strikes that balance beautifully. The suites, the service, the atmosphere, and the dining all delivered the Moroccan experience I’d been hoping for.
For more information and booking, visit: https://lefarnatchi.com/
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