Marrakech sits on many people’s bucket lists, and for good reason. Few destinations conjure such an alluring sense of exotic mystique, where vibrant souks, ancient architecture, and centuries-old traditions create an atmosphere unlike anywhere else. It had long been on my own bucket list, and I’m happy to say that Marrakech lived up to the hype..
The Medina – the ancient walled city at its heart – is a maze of spice stalls, leather workshops, and rooftop terraces where the call to prayer folds into the smell of cumin and cedar. It is extraordinary and relentless in equal measure. Most first-timers base themselves inside it, and it makes sense. But Marrakech is bigger and more layered than its most famous neighbourhood, and how much of it you actually experience often comes down to where you stay.
What to Know Before You Go to Marrakech
A few things worth knowing before you land. Most visitors do not need a visa for stays up to 90 days – worth confirming based on your nationality before booking. The local currency is the Moroccan dirham (MAD). Bring dirhams for the souks and street food; cards work at hotels and larger restaurants, but cash is welcome elsewhere. Tipping is appreciated. Dress modestly in the Medina. Marrakech Menara Airport (RAK) is 15 minutes from the city centre, well-connected to Europe and worldwide.
Spring and autumn are the most popular times to visit Marrakech. Temperatures sit comfortably between 20°C and 28°C, the sun shines reliably, and the city is at its most lively. I visited in winter and can report it is genuinely pleasant: warm during the day, cool in the evenings, and far less crowded. Summer pushes beyond 35°C but is manageable with early mornings and afternoons by the pool.
The Medina is worth at least a full day. At its heart is the Jemaa el-Fnaa, a UNESCO-recognised square that has been the gathering place of Marrakech for centuries. By day, it is orange juice stalls and spice merchants. After dark, food stalls fill the air with the smell of grilled meat and harira soup, and the sounds of drums and traditional chants echo across the square. Storytellers, musicians, acrobats, fortune tellers, and street performers keep traditions alive here.
Read more about Marrakech’s restaurant culture in our review of the Medina’s Le Trou au Mur here.
A Calm Corner of Marrakech’s Red City
Sleeping inside the Medina is not for everyone. The narrow alleys, the noise, and the sensory overload that make it thrilling by day can make it a difficult place to rest. Sirayane Boutique Hotel and Spa sits outside that intensity, about 30 minutes from the city centre, in a quieter pocket of Marrakech with views of the Atlas Mountains. The hotel runs a free shuttle to the Medina on a regular schedule, so you get access without the chaos as a permanent backdrop.
The property has 40 rooms across three buildings, small enough to feel intimate but large enough to have the amenities needed to make for a great holiday. The design is contemporary and moody: We walked into a lobby with a wood-burning fireplace, deep sofas, and a quiet ambiance. Outside, palm and olive trees line the paths, and the pool areas are surrounded by lush vegetation with the Atlas Mountains on the horizon. After the sensory whirlwind of the medina, the tranquility of this retreat felt like a welcome escape.
The Rooms
We had a large modern room with floor-to-ceiling windows looking directly onto the pool – step outside, and you are on a semi-private patio with chaise lounges, steps from the water.
The marble bathroom has a generously sized rainfall shower, bathrobes, slippers, and all the details you hope for in a boutique hotel. Egyptian cotton sheets, an espresso machine, minibar, and a nightly turndown service.
Mint Tea, Tagine, and Everything in Between
Dinner at Sirayane begins the Moroccan way – dates on arrival, followed by briouat, small golden pastries filled with meat and herbs that melt in your mouth. The tagine, a slow-cooked North African stew served in its distinctive conical clay pot, is fragrant with spices and usually comes with a choice of meat or vegetables. We tried both and happily devoured them.
The breakfast buffet is expansive, with a wide variety of offerings – fresh fruit, hot dishes, Moroccan pastries, cold meats, salads, breads, mint tea, juices. We looked forward to it each morning. It’s a great way to start your day.
Two Pools and the Atlas in the Background
There are two pools on the property, one of which is heated and adults-only. Both are large, surrounded by palms and greenery, with the Atlas Mountains sitting on the horizon. We watched several couples settle in at the poolside early and (happily) barely move all day. If you are visiting Marrakech in the warmer months, the pool is a refreshing way to spend your day.
The Hammam: What It Is and Why To Try It
A Moroccan hammam is not a massage. It’s a ritual that has been part of daily life in Marrakech and across Morocco for centuries. The process moves through steam, a cleanse with savon beldi – Morocco’s traditional olive oil black soap – exfoliation with a coarse kessa mitt, a body mask, and a rest. The result is skin that feels new.
We booked the private couples’ hammam at the Sirayane spa, and it is the thing we would recommend first to anyone staying here. Our treatment followed the full traditional sequence: black soap cleanse, an intense kessa scrub, then wrapped in a body mask, before being rinsed down – all in a private steam room. We went in not entirely sure what to expect and came out converted. Book it for the first night if you can, or the last, or ideally both.
Beyond Marrakech
The hotel offers several excursion packages. We chose the camel ride at the Agafay Desert, just outside Marrakech, and it was one of the best things we did on the trip. The drive from Sirayane takes about 15 to 20 minutes. On arrival, we sipped fresh mint tea while the camels were prepared, then we were dressed in traditional garments – a shesh, the Tuareg turban worn by Berber nomads, wrapped around the head to keep sun and sand off your face – before heading out among the landscape at sunset, watching the Atlas quietly changing colour in the background.
The camels, despite their reputation, are quite calm. There are no stirrups. After mounting, you hold metal handlebars and grip with your legs. When the camel stands, you find yourself sitting higher than expected, but quickly realize that it’s an easy ride. The guides have everything under control, and the scenery of sand dunes mixed with the setting sun at that hour is something you will not forget.
If you have more than a few days for excursions, the High Atlas Mountains open up a completely different side of Morocco – lush riverbanks, Berber villages, and waterfalls about 90 minutes from Marrakech. Closer to Sirayane, the Agafay Desert offers more than camels: quad bikes and ATV rides through the rocky landscape and offer a completely different way to enjoy the area.
Marrakech rewards the traveller who stays long enough to get past the obvious. Sirayane makes it easy to do exactly that: a calm base with good food, a real hammam, and the Medina close enough to visit without having to live inside it.
Quick Overview: Sirayane Boutique Hotel and Spa, Marrakech
Location: Tassoultante, Marrakech – 30 minutes from the Medina, 15 minutes from the Agafay Desert. Free shuttle to the Medina included.
Style: Contemporary boutique hotel, Marrakech – moody, calm, 40 rooms across 3 buildings.
Best For: Couples and honeymooners wanting Marrakech access with none of the Medina noise – pool, hammam, and Atlas Mountain views as the daily backdrop.
Standout: Private couples’ hammam and two heated pools including an adults-only pool.
Dining: Full breakfast buffet included daily; dinner with traditional Moroccan tagine, briouat pastries, and dates.
Spa: Traditional hammam, massages, facials, body wraps, sauna, steam room, hot tub.
Getting There: Marrakech Menara Airport (RAK) – 15 minutes. Well connected from Europe and worldwide via Casablanca, Madrid, or Paris.
Website: sirayane.com
