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Arriving in the midday heat at the impressive Mas de Torrent, a luxurious farmhouse and ‘Grande Dame’ hotel of the Empordà, we were whisked into its shaded garden and swiftly poured a chilled glass of Cava, produced by Juvé & Camps in the nearby Penedès region. The scene was set for a few nights of enlightening gastronomy and refined indulgence, with a culinary immersion into the region and its bountiful produce at El Mas, the hotel’s esteemed restaurant.
Behind the honey-hued stone walls of an 18th-Century masía lies Mas de Torrent, one of Spain’s most atmospheric hotels. A place so charming that it’s lured in pop royalty over the years – Kylie, Shakira and Barbra Streisand have all stayed here.
Our visit coincides with a new chapter for El Mas, the hotel’s restaurant, which has recently welcomed Eugeni de Diego, Ferran Adrià’s right-hand man during his time at the legendary El Bulli, as its new gastronomic consultant, working alongside Marc Cabezas in the El Mas kitchen. The duo has meticulously crafted a menu that honours the seasons and fruits of the land.
After a few sun-drenched glasses of Cava, the leisurely meal that followed – described as a ‘light lunch’ that was actually far more generous – was a prelude to the culinary flair we’d experience at El Mas. We feasted on Ibérico ham and pan con tomate, delicious cheeses, fresh fruits, and deep-fried pastry bites filled with crema catalana, a speciality in Girona. This delicious introduction set the tone for the exceptional food we experienced throughout our stay.
El Mas feels like a real occasion restaurant, with soft Mediterranean light during the day, dimly lit corners in the evening, and immaculately dressed tables at any time of day. The menu refreshes traditional Catalan and Empordà cuisine with some modern twists. Faithful to the gastronomic heritage of the Empordà region, dishes are a blend of ‘land and sea’ – huge scarlet Palamós prawns are served alongside traditional meat stews, with inventive canapés, fine cheeses and cured meats as preludes to the main event. Nobody leaves El Mas hungry.
Mas de Torrent reflects the energy of The Empordà – its gentle elegance and connection to the land. Olive groves and vineyards neighbour rustic villages with honey-hued stone buildings. There’s a feeling of simplicity here: a focus on good design, good food and thoughtful service.
Nearby, you’ll find Pals, the birthplace of the aforementioned famous rice dish, where ancient architecture leads to golden sands, as well as fairytale-like Medieval villages, Peratallada and Calella de Palafrugell. The Empordà is Salvador Dalí’s original homeland and heartland for art and literature, offering plenty of galleries and museums to explore. The hotel acts as an easy base, offering road, electric or leisure bikes so guests can explore the region via one of its nearby cycling routes.
Inside the hotel, guests will find a unique mix of soothing neutrals and earthy materials familiar within modern wellness spaces, ramped up with a touch of gothic drama. Beyond the traditional terracotta floors and floaty linens, there are dramatic fireplaces, opulent dining tables dressed with tapered candles and traditional Catalan vaulted ceilings. A member of Relais & Châteaux, part of Virtuoso, and recognised with Two Michelin Keys, with a rich cultural significance, few hotels in the Costa Brava can match Mas de Torrent’s prestige. So does the hotel live up to its sterling reputation? I checked in for a few nights to discover why this hotel ticks all the boxes for a sophisticated Spanish farmhouse stay.
First Impressions
Arriving at Mas de Torrent, guests are likely to notice its groomed lawns and impeccable spaces – it’s an incredibly well-kept hotel. The traditional Catalan farmhouse has been sensitively converted into a boutique-style hotel, with 39 suites split between the main farmhouse and single-story blocks in rows amidst the lush grounds. There’s a tranquil pool area and terrace at the back of the hotel, and a beautiful spa that guests can reach through winding pathways surrounded by foliage. The property feels immersed in its natural surroundings; no high-rise blocks or soulless interiors here.
The rooms
Rooms at Mas de Torrent follow the hotel’s blend of natural tones and pared-back elegance, with the rooms inside the main house showcasing traditional styling and features, and the outdoor suites striking a balance between indoor and outdoor living. We stayed in a beautiful Suite Piscina, with a small living area for lounging inside, a desk area for the ultimate remote work spot and a private pool complete with plush loungers, a spacious outdoor living area and a heater for chillier evenings.
Inside, bedrooms are suitably swish, with the same commitment to natural tones and textures, teamed with luxurious amenities. Expect Egyptian cotton bed linen, oversized rain showers and large, yet subtly placed TVs if you want to enjoy breakfast in bed alongside a little comfort television. Though in our opinion, exploring a hotel this beautiful deserves full attention. Guests staying in a pool suite can enjoy a €50 Wellness credit and full access to the spa – one of the highlights of the hotel alongside El Mas.
Food and drink at Mas de Torrent
Our trip to Mas de Torrent educated me on the El Bulli universe, one of the defining influences on modern Spanish cuisine. Chef Ferran Adrià’s El Bulli was widely considered one of the best restaurants in the world, with an inventive, unexpected menu that delighted diners (think optical illusions, herbs made entirely from foam, a Spanish omelette served in a martini glass). Widely regarded as the birthplace of modern molecular gastronomy, El Bulli pioneered a scientific and refreshingly experimental approach to cooking in Spain.
During its height of fame, El Bulli was crowned ‘Best Restaurant in the World’ on numerous occasions – getting a reservation was nearly impossible. And its influence had a ripple effect throughout Spanish cuisine, transformed fine dining and reshaped a generation of chefs, including El Mas’ Eugeni de Diego, who worked alongside Adrià and helped him to launch the El Bulli Lab, and later the El Bulli Foundation, in Barcelona.
So what does this rich culinary heritage mean for El Mas? While the menu may not be quite as theatrical, de Diego brings a spirit of curiosity and an experimental approach, finding new ways to present and enjoy local ingredients. Signature dishes include Arròs de Pals, a traditional local rice casserole, Suquet de Peix, a saffron-infused seafood stew, and expertly prepared squid.
The wine list is extensive, with bottles chosen to complement the food beautifully from its well-stocked cellar, with a strong focus on the DO Empordà wine region. For an aperitivo moment, Bar Glicinias is tucked between the wisteria.
The spa
The 600 sqm MasSpa is thoughtfully integrated into the surrounding landscape – so much so that it may take you some time to find it among the olive and cypress trees. But once you do, it’s undoubtedly worth it. Upstairs is a relaxing heated pool, dappled by sunlight and surrounded by nature, with an outdoor terrace where guests can soak up the views. There’s also a contrast therapy area for an invigorating cold plunge and hydrotherapy session and two dry saunas. Treatments are top-notch, featuring brands like Natura Bissé and Comfort Zone with heated Naggura treatment beds.
Exploring the Costa Brava
The wild, rugged coastline of the Costa Brava, peppered with pretty coves, villages and colourful houses, is best explored by boat. And Mas de Torrent has its own private Gozzo 35, designed for leisurely cruising, for guests to immerse themselves in this beautiful coastline.
Guests can explore specific areas such as the Medes Islands, Llafranc, Calella de Palafrugell, Tamariu or Cadaqués, dipping into the sea on sunny days or trying paddle boarding. Enjoy a glass of wine and picnic on board to complete the experience. Back at the hotel, every day at 5pm, there’s an afternoon tea prepared for guests for a light bite after a day’s exploring.
Need to know
Mas de Torrent is situated near Torrent in Baix Empordà, between Pals and Begur, with the Costa Brava and its coves just minutes away. Find out more at unicohotels.com/en/hotel-mas-de-torrent
Address: Afueras de Torrent s/n, 17123 Torrent, Costa Brava, Spain. 00 34 972 303 29.
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