Unlike the new rip-roaring show ‘Rivals’ based on the book by Dame Jilly Cooper, the Horse & Groom Village Inn in Upper Oddington showcases a slower pace of life, just less than two miles from the historic market town of Stow-on-the-Wold, Burford and Upper & Lower Slaughter. This local favourite rivals the loud and brash waterholes that have sprung up in the area and offers a calm, traditional sanctuary where time stands still.
The historic 16th-century Inn is the oldest working Inn in the Cotswolds. There are original Cotswold-stone fireplaces throughout with cosy low ceilings and a relaxed yet spacious dining area adjoining the bar. The main bar area and restaurant still have the original inglenook fireplace and flag stone flooring and I can’t imagine a more atmospheric spot to indulge in a glass of red wine and some clandestine conversations. If only the walls could talk.
Beyond the restaurant and bar, there is a lounge for the exclusive use of guests, with complimentary hot drinks on offer, board games, walking trail tips and local recommendations. There is also a large car park if travelling from far and an attractive patio which nabs the last of the sun in the afternoons and a beer garden next to a bubbling stream.
As the light fades, locals and visitors alike head inside the inviting pub. This is the type of place where owners and partners Norman and Warren can be seen chatting to staff and guests as well as pulling pints. It was Norman and Warren’s enthusiasm for ale that meant the pub was recognised by the beer industry as a finalist in the North Cotswold CAMRA Pub of the Year 2023 competition.
The Horse & Groom has been included in the Top 50 Gastropubs 2024 list, alongside some big names. And rightfully so. The Henbrooks Steak & Seafood Grill’s menu at the Horse & Groom brings together the best of British meat, fish and seafood to Oxfordshire. Owners Norman and Warren have sourced suppliers that are both meticulous about quality and passionate about sustainable produce; they have been working with a local butcher for over three years based in nearby Chipping Norton, who has recently been awarded best butcher in Oxfordshire. The Cote DeBoeuf, was simply sublime and I am on a quest to return for a Sunday Roast, an experience I was told by other diners was not to be missed. For the roasts, the team uses the Striploin cut for texture and a deep mature taste and the quality beef is cooked overnight.
The next day we stepped out into the crisp air and walked off our feast from the night before to the beautiful St Nicholas Church just as the sun was dipping, with some elements of the building dating back to the 12th-century. The aptly named church is so old that there is no electricity supply and services are limited to the summer months and two candle-lit December carol services on St. Nicholas’ Day (6th December) and Christmas Eve. I could almost hear the lull of carols coming from the ancient church in the distance as we popped back to the Inn for a final moonlight pint, just before leaving this pocket of England for the drive back to London.
The Horse & Groom has seven cosy en-suite guest rooms, which include a mix of double and twin rooms. The whole place is dog friendly, and three guests rooms are specifically designated for dogs and their owners with complimentary dog beds, biscuits and blankets for dogs.
Room rates at the Horse & Groom Village Inn start from £109 for a Standard Double Room, with a minimum two-night stay over weekends. To book, or to find out more, visit horseandgroomcotswolds.co.uk.
Information on Christmas at the Horse & Groom Village Inn can be found here: horseandgroomcotswolds.co.uk/christmas, and the NYE menu can be found here.
