In a city swimming in gastropubs, The Newman Arms offers a taste of a bygone era, with candlelit tables that feel more Victorian than modern minimalist. Lauren Kate Hughes stops by for a hearty pie and a not-so-old-fashioned pint — a combo of Murphy’s Irish stout and Crémant, an iteration on a Black Velvet that actually works a lot better than you might think.
The Newman Arms has had many faces. Initially built in the 1720s, it has had a past life as a blacksmith’s, a candlemaker’s shop, and a brothel. This is a building with stories to tell — with a creaky staircase and plenty of nooks and crannies that make it feel suitably theatrical as you settle into a hearty meal in London’s Fitzrovia.
A good old-fashioned boozer this is not; it’s a little bit classier with a vibrant history, yet still offers a down-to-earth atmosphere, sitting among the breed of London pubs that lean most into their 18th-century roots. The Newman Arms was first licensed as a pub in the 19th century and counted literary greats such as George Orwell among its patrons — it is widely believed to have inspired the Proles pub in Orwell’s Nineteen Eighty Four. But while the Proles pub was less than glamorous, a watering hole for unsavoury characters enjoying a mediocre pint in a grimy setting, the recent refurb is a lot more pleasing on the eye.
Recently taken over by William St John and Callum Murphy, it’s a blend between London’s polished style and a Victorian watering hole, the ground floor a classic pub, with a cosy downstairs bar and a ‘Pie and Pints’ room upstairs. The nostalgia in the décor carries through to the menu, creating an authentic experience. After all, there’s nothing worse than a London restaurant that relies on gimmicks without any real substance.
That said, this is not a London restaurant — it’s unashamedly a pub and rejoices in its down-to-earth pub grub. There are only pies on the mains menu, and starters are suitably kitsch. Think half a pint of prawns served in a cocktail glass, an assortment of pate and buttery toast, or a fresh and zingy heritage tomato salad if you want something lighter as a prelude to the pies. At the bar, you can opt for wholesome snacks like scotch eggs or sausage rolls. The cutlery is heavy and ornate, and the glassware (or tankards, if you opt for the Black Velvet) is eclectic.
The mood
Candlelight dictates the mood at The Newman Arms, offering a cosy bolthole that would delight out-of-town friends who are looking for somewhere to satisfy the cosy pub fantasy. There are three floors — a pub setting for aforementioned pints on the ground floor, a cosy snug serving bites and winter cocktails downstairs and the compact dining room upstairs, where diners can order a decadent three-course meal.
The interiors are charming and mismatched, with a French bistro-meets-London pub feel. As well as its various claims to fame and storied past throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, the pub has had a cameo or two, appearing in Michael Powell’s 1960 film Peeping Tom, adding to its edgy credentials.
The food
With London’s ‘experience-led’ pubs and restaurants, there’s always the danger that the food can disappoint. But not in this case. While pies may be the only thing on the mains menu, they’re done well and priced reasonably. If you’re looking for a fine dining pub-meets-restaurant, we’d advise somewhere like the (albeit much-hyped) Devonshire or the Michelin-starred Harwood Arms.
The Newman Arms is more of a no-frills affair that still offers some culinary flair. The aged beef shin and rib pie served with mash and cabbage was a delicious blend of flaky pastry and a winter stew, with soft, slow-cooked meat. There’s also an impressive-looking fish pie topped with a show-stopping langoustine clutching a tiny bottle of hot sauce (more theatrics points), but we didn’t sample this dish this time around.
For starters, choose from a vegetarian Chestnut Mushroom Pâté served with crusty bread, Crispy Lamb Belly Scrumpets, or a half pint of prawns. Desserts are decadent, as expected, and simple, with a changing menu. Examples include the Newman Arms Chocolate Cake or a cheeseboard featuring British classics. Drinks are refreshingly reasonable, with still wines starting at around £25 — somewhat a rarity in London nowadays. Cocktails are also reasonably priced, with the aforementioned Black Velvet, said to be a Humphrey Bogart, costing £12. The Maple Old Fashioned looked appealing, priced at £12 as well.
The true indicator of The Newman Arms’ success is how busy it is on an uneventful Tuesday: the dining room packed, drinkers jollily bracing the cold air outside with a pint, their experience softened by the warm glow of the pub’s old-fashioned lamps. A place to go in winter and indulge in comfort food and a cosy atmosphere, this warming, pint-sized pub is a central London institution in the making.
