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Mallory Court Hotel & Spa takes its commitment to going local seriously, with beautiful kitchen gardens that allow for a garden-to-kitchen dining. Lauren Kate Hughes checked into Leamington Spa’s most coveted hotel to experience a dining experience that goes far beyond a typical country house hotel restaurant.
Arriving at Mallory Court Hotel & Spa feels like stepping into a cosy country house of an old friend (albeit with impeccable taste) — its spaces more intimate and welcoming, with a restaurant that feels like a private dining experience, headed up by the talented Stuart Deeley. Locally sourced and seasonal produce are buzzwords in the hospitality world, but The Warwick at Mallory Court Hotel & Spa truly champions homegrown produce with functional grounds that aren’t just home to sweet-smelling roses and wildflowers, but also extensive herb gardens, vegetable patches and fruits; fresh ingredients that shape the dishes in the kitchen.
First impressions
Just 60 minutes on the train from Marleybone, the journey to Leamington Spa Station from London is relaxed, the scenery through the window quickly shifting to green fields and woodland. The hotel is just five minutes away from the station, making for a breezy transition that nicely preludes the serenity of the hotel.
As Londoners, we crave swapping sirens and busy tube journeys for the countryside fantasy, complete with birds chirping and a feeling of stillness, and Mallory Court Hotel & Spa delivers this perfectly. But while the descriptions of kitchen gardens and homely spaces might suggest a more humble property, Mallory Court is anything but rustic. The Relais & Châteaux hotel balances all-school hospitality and traditional country house hotel with contemporary luxury and style.
Mallory Court Hotel & Spa has recently completed a £1.6million refurbishment, refreshing its grand Lutyens-style main house and heavenly Elan Spa. Rooms are generous and tastefully decorated in a country house style; there are only 43 of them, which adds to the hotel’s intimate feel. But the true highlight of Mallory Court is its 3 AA Rosette restaurant, nestled in the dining room of the English country house hotel.
The Warwick at Mallory Court Hotel & Spa
The Warwick, headed up by MasterChef: The Professionals winner Stu Deeley, has an enviable reputation in the area, catering to both hotel guests and those who will travel from out of town to sample the menu. The setting is intimate, with attentive, personal service and beautifully presented dishes with a focus on details.
The menu is seasonal and understated, but the experience still feels theatrical; each course is a mini work of art. The dining experience isn’t rushed here. There’s time to enjoy a seasonal spritz or a cocktail on colder days, while perusing the menu, before leisurely enjoying each course from the menu. It’s a tasting-menu style set up here, with guests able to choose from three or five courses.
The Warwick takes its name from the nearby historic town of Warwick and its famous castle, nodding to the history that’s rooted in this corner of England. Deeley’s menu showcases seasonal ingredients grown on site in the Mallory Court Kitchen Gardens, which are carefully managed by a team of gardeners all year round. There are two options for diners: the five-course Taste of the Season menu is priced at £105, with the option of a three-course menu at £90.
Chatting with Deeley before we sampled the Taste of Season menu, the MasterChef winner shared how he’s inspired by his own experiences and emotions behind food; Cornish crab is paired with Isle of Wight tomatoes, evoking the feeling of an Italian holiday, while butter-soft lobster is elevated even further with zingy Thai flavours.
The chef’s love of the flavours of San Sebastián is reflected in his flavourful poussin dish, served with Jamón sauce, garden carrots, and earthy Maitake mushrooms. Meanwhile, the Baked Alaska brings up feelings of childhood nostalgia. The menu feels personal, offering an insight into the local area as well as Deeley’s own culinary journey.
Our personal menu highlights were the Canadian Lobster, enhanced with Thai spices and BBQ greens, its freshness offset with a serving of Stornoway black pudding and the Highland Wagyu Rump Cap, served with ox cheek and pickled pear, presented delicately and cooked perfectly. A selection of cheeses with homemade seeded crackers rounded off the meal, but no diner should leave without trying Deeley’s famous Baked Alaska.
Rooms
We stayed in the Master Suite, a beautiful bedroom dressed in plush red tones and floral prints that again reflect the hotel’s heritage. It’s easy to imagine the lady of the manor poised at the suite’s ornate dressing table, looking out over the lawns as she spritzes expensive perfume. The setting feels romantic and storied, exactly what you want from a country house hotel stay, complete with a roll-top bath for a prolonged soak before dinner.
The Master Suite is located in the main manor house with a pretty terrace that would be ideal for summer sundowners. As we visited in winter, we took in the views across Mallory Court’s sprawling estate through the windows instead. The rooms have everything you might need to live out the hotel guest fantasy: fluffy robes, cosy slippers, fancy toiletries and a Nespresso machine for that morning coffee moment that always feels so much more special in a luxury hotel.
Elan Spa
In keeping with the rest of the hotel, the Elan Spa is small and perfectly formed, with indoor and outdoor areas to unwind in. Despite the chilly weather, wrapped up in our robes, we braved the elements for a dip in the warm, bubbling vitality pool nestled among the woodland, before retreating to the outdoor sauna.
Inside, there’s a bigger pool with hydrotherapy jets to help soothe aches and pains, comfy loungers and a variety of heat rooms, as well as another restaurant serving healthy dishes. Unsurprisingly, wellness treatments are top-notch — we recommend the GAIA Jade Stone Facial, a 55-minute rejuvenating treatment using cooling jade crystals to stimulate lymph drainage, improve circulation, and lift the skin.
Need to know
Rooms at Mallory Court start at £120 a night. You can find out more on the Mallory Court Hotel & Spa website.
Mallory Court Hotel & Spa is home to The Warwick, a new restaurant by award-winning chef, Stu Deeley. With menus inspired by British heritage, bold seasonal flavours and the finest local produce, it’s where tradition meets innovation, and every plate tells a story. Due to limited capacity, the hotel strongly recommends making a reservation before arrival.
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