At Via Emilia, there is no such thing as ‘Italian’ food – only regional food.
Known as the land of lard, butter, and heavy meats, Emilia-Romagna is considered as the Food Valley of Italy. The menu showcases exactly that, with each dish hailing from their own respective towns, the place prioritises regional authenticity over broad appeal. It offers a remarkable journey into the culinary heart of Emilia, transporting guests from London to the rolling hills and historic towns of northern Italy. Our visit to Via Emilia revealed a deep respect for heritage, a mastery of pasta, and passion for the cuisine.
Christian Pero, the visionary behind the Food Roots project and owner of Via Emilia, is devoted to bringing regional excellence to the doorsteps of London’s neighbourhoods. In opening his third outpost in Notting Hill, his ambition to champion the food and culture of his hometown, Parma, and Northern Italy as a whole, is unmistakable.
Starting with Gnocco Fritto and the Delight of Lambrusco
The meal opens with gnocco fritto, the quintessential fried bread of Emilia-Romagna. Light, airy, and golden, it arrives with an assortment of salumi, a platter of cured meats including prosciutto crudo from Parma, Coppa from Piacenza, and Salame Felino also from Parma, accompanied by squacquerone cheese from Cesena. The gnocco fritto encourages sharing by tearing a piece, slathering the cheese, and draping one or more meat, to create the perfect bite. It’s rustic yet refined.
Pairing our starters is Lambrusco wine served traditionally in a ceramic bowl. It is the ultimate fat-cutter, as its high acidity and fine bubbles cleanse the palate after a bite of fatty cured meat or the deep fried gnocco fritto. This wine is non-negotiable; its deep, frothy bubbles help navigate such a carb-heavy menu, ensuring that the next bite is as fresh as the first.
Labour Intensive Hand-made Pastas at Via Emilia
Perhaps the highlight of our meal was the Tajadèl bulgnaisi col ragó. The slow-cooked ragù is rich, layered, and deeply satisfying, embodying the essence of Bologna’s culinary heritage. Each handmade ribbon of pasta hugs the combination of beef and pork sauce with precision; every forkful provided the comfort of human touch and the artisanal weight of high-quality ingredients.
Next, a vibrant homage to the pastures of Reggio Emilia, Turtē vèird a l’arşâna, is a herbaceous classic that proves less is more. These hand-cut, squared ravioli are generously stuffed with a velvety blend of fresh spinach, creamy ricotta, and aged Parmigiano Reggiano. Enveloped in a classic emulsion of nut-brown butter and crisped sage, the dish is exacting. The flavours are subtle and complex, rather than ‘in your face’, where the quality speaks for itself without flashy garnishes or heavy sauces.
Lastly, for a true taste of Northern Italian comfort, one we have not encountered before, is a bowl of Anolén in brôd. This dish is a labour of love, it’s hand-folded and time-consuming to create – a true testament to the respect towards tradition and technique.
Via Emilia mixes filling styles from Parma, Modena, Piacenza, and Reggio that elevate the humble pasta hat. Instead of just the simple breadcrumb & cheese from Parma or the savoury pork & mortadella from Piacenze, the dish dons a clever hybrid of it all. Served in a clarified, golden hen broth, it’s the ultimate version of Anolén.
Together, these dishes illustrate the range and creativity of Emilia-Romagna’s cuisine. Every plate demonstrates careful attention to texture, balance, and flavour.
A Dolce Vitality
As we conquered the last ribbons of pasta and final bites of ravioli, the menu shifted from savoury to sweet. We ordered the light tiramisu, Christian Pero’s own recipe, made with only egg whites as a stark departure from the traditional egg-yolk-heavy mascarpone. It’s airy, delicately layered, and ethereal.
Followed by slices of chocolate salame, a playful yet sinisterly dark nod to Italian tradition. This was a surprising treat. Crafted to mimic the marbled appearance of a dry-aged sausage, this no-bake masterpiece replaced pork and fat with a dark cocoa base and shattered pieces of buttery biscuits.
Via Emilia as an Experience
Via Emilia, well and truly, stands as a monolith of regional Italian cooking. Each dish tells a story of place, history, and tradition, expressed through careful cooking and soulful service. Our visit was a beautiful immersion into the cuisine and culture of Emilia-Romagna. The whole experience revealed London’s growing force of cultivating authenticity, craftmanship, and understated elegance.
