WILD, an unassuming yet otherworldly fine dining experience, offers the kind of dining experience that feels increasingly rare: thoughtful, ingredient-led cooking that is deeply connected to the land without ever feeling overly performative. Hannah Tan ventures to the recently opened restaurant in Berkhamsted for a meal that is worth driving out of London for.
Inside WILD: Berkhamsted’s Most Exciting New Farm-to-Table Restaurant
Every aspect of the restaurant – from its seasonal menus to its understated interiors – reflects a philosophy rooted in sustainability, simplicity, and exceptional produce.
From the moment you step inside WILD, the atmosphere strikes a careful balance between understated cool and warm, rural charm. It’s the kind of place that feels considered without being contrived: soft lighting, natural textures, and an easy, flowing layout that encourages you to settle in. There’s a hum to the room, but nothing overwhelming. Instead, it’s relaxed, convivial, and quietly confident, much like the food itself.
The vision comes from Matt Larcombe, whose experience in some of the UK’s most celebrated kitchens is evident, but it’s his desire to return to something more honest that defines WILD. Alongside Head Chef Charlie Hitchcock, he has created a menu that moves in rhythm with the seasons, dictated by what’s growing on their Radlett farm. It’s a true farm-to-table concept, where the kitchen and land exist in a natural, symbiotic cycle.
The Dishes That Defined Our Evening
That ethos translates beautifully onto the plate. Our meal began with a refreshingly light amuse-bouche: a crisp cucumber bite paired with silky aioli and shards of crispy bacon – cool, creamy, and just salty enough to awaken the palate.
A duo of small bites followed, showcasing both finesse and playfulness: a delicately prepared tartare alongside a crab and apple hash brown that delivered crunch, sweetness, and a hit of coastal freshness.
One of the unexpected highlights was the mushroom parfait. Creamy to the point of indulgence yet layered with complexity, it was topped with puffed rice for texture and finished with shaved mushroom. Earthy, airy, and deeply savoury, it was the kind of dish that quietly steals the show.
The in-house flatbreads are, quite simply, exceptional. Warm, pillowy, and impossibly moreish, they’re a must-order. Of the variations, the lamb and rhubarb stood out – a perfect balance of richness and sharp, almost floral acidity that cut through the meat beautifully.
Vegetables take centre stage here, and rightly so. Leeks paired with red peppers brought sweetness and depth, while celeriac with pickled walnut offered a masterclass in contrast – creamy, nutty, and punctuated with acidity. The carrots, glazed in lamb fat, were a revelation, transforming a humble ingredient into something deeply flavourful and satisfying.
For the main, a sirloin on the bone arrived with a rich shallot sauce, velvety mashed potatoes, and smoked greens. It was generous, comforting, and executed with precision – exactly what you want from a dish designed to be shared.
Dessert came in the form of a tarte tatin, and it was nothing short of exceptional. Deeply caramelised, buttery, and indulgent without being heavy, it provided a fittingly decadent end to the meal.
Thoughtful Service, Exceptional Produce, and Quiet Refinement
The wine programme deserves special mention. Thoughtfully curated and clearly designed to complement the kitchen’s seasonal approach, the pairings felt intuitive rather than forced. Each glass elevated the dish it accompanied, enhancing flavours without overpowering them – a sign of a team that truly understands balance.
Service, too, is a standout. Warm, knowledgeable, and genuinely enthusiastic, the team guide you through the menu with ease, offering insight into the provenance of ingredients and the thinking behind each dish without ever feeling overbearing. It’s polished but personable, adding to the overall sense of ease that defines the experience.
What makes WILD Berkhamsted’s best restaurant is how seamlessly everything comes together. The ethos, the food, the setting, and the service all feel aligned, creating a dining experience that is both grounded and quietly refined. It’s a reminder that exceptional food doesn’t need to travel far, and that when you work in harmony with the land, the results speak for themselves.
