Walking through the cobbled streets of Soho on a Thursday evening, a couple of pre-dinner cocktails in, it’s hard not to imagine what this pocket of London might have felt like ten, twenty, even a hundred years ago. There are remnants of the area’s past lives everywhere you look — and one only has to step foot inside the reincarnation of a true Soho legend, seafood restaurant Manzi’s, nestled in an alley right off of Soho Square, for a taste of the enclave in its prime.
The original Manzi’s opened in 1928, and this ode to the classic embraces all of the kitsch and camp of Soho with a fresh touch. Opened by The Wolseley Hospitality Group (also responsible for London institutions such as Brasserie Zedel, The Delaunay, and, of course, The Wolseley) in 2023, the interiors are the work of Fabled Studio, and features the same seaside-inspired, escapist charm of the original Manzi’s, reimagined through a modern lens.
Seaside Whimsy at Manzi’s in the Heart of the City
Guests are first greeted in the lobby by white-washed walls featuring a mural inspired by Hemingway’s The Old Man and the Sea, accompanied by a full-size marlin taxidermy — a tribute to the legendary battle between man and sea. The restaurant itself is shades of soft, powder-blue, sea glass green, and creamy white, lifted by the glow of intricately detailed crystal chandeliers.
Cocktails That Speak of the Sea
The cocktail menu is inspired by coastal ingredients and flavours, with a fresh and inventive take on beloved classics. Favourites include Seaside Spritz with Plymouth Gin, white port, sea rosemary cordial, agave and crodino, and Cordelia’s Martini with No.3 gin, Champagne & oyster vermouth, fino sherry, sea mist, and a Champagne sorbet. I feel like you can’t do dinner in Soho without a martini, and opt for their ‘Bateman’s Gibson’ — essentially a dirty gin martini with pickle brine. I am nothing short of delighted when I’m presented with my martini alongside a tiny glass dish with an assortment of pickles and a thin silver toothpick to build my own martini garnish.
Oysters, Tartare, and Retro Charm at Manzi’s
Now mid-September, we’re well and truly back in oyster season, so it would have been rude not to start with a selection of six oysters. Served exactly how they should be, the oysters are a sight for sore eyes on an elevated silver dish, filled to the brim with ice, fresh lemon, a shallot mignonette, and two types of Tabasco. Still sipping on my martini and comparing the Jersey and Poole Rock oysters is the perfect way to start the meal. If you’re as oyster-obsessed as I am, you’ll want to check out this guide to the best oysters in London for even more inspiration.
The rest of the menu is equally charming — a balanced mix of retro favourites and modern sharing plates. To start, we order a Yellowtail tuna tartare (which arrives with crispy rice crackers and jewelled with avocado and wasabi mayonnaise) alongside our personal favourite, prawn cocktail. The prawns are fresh and juicy, and the marie-rose sauce is perfectly tangy, served on a bed of crunchy iceberg lettuce in a silver coupe, this simple dish is elevated, kitsch perfection.
Standouts from the Sea and Beyond
The smoked haddock served with a parmesan souffle is a real highlight of the menu for me. A generous fillet of haddock is smothered in a creamy sauce — this has a surprising sharpness to it, which offsets the smokey flavour of the haddock perfectly. This is all, of course, accompanied by the exceptional service that sets all of the Wolseley group’s restaurants apart from the crowd. Waiters in three-piece suits who refill glasses without a word, tableware that is arranged perfectly on the table, wine coolers built into the banquettes — Manzi’s has a remarkable eye for detail.
For dessert, we go for the dark chocolate mousse, the perfect balance of sweet and bitter, topped with cherries. We also share a knickerbocker glory, which is equal parts nostalgic and impressive, served in a tall, retro milkshake glass, layered with vanilla ice cream, strawberry sorbet, fresh whipped cream, and marshmallows.
As the evening winds down and the last sips of wine are taken, it’s clear that Manzi’s is far more than just a seafood restaurant — it’s theatre, nostalgia, and charm all rolled into one. Every element, from the immaculate service to the whimsical interiors and pitch-perfect menu, has been designed to evoke the glamour and eccentricity of Soho’s past while feeling unmistakably at home in the present. There’s a touch of old-world mischief here, but also polish; a nod to tradition without feeling stuck in it. Whether you’re in for oysters and cocktails or a full, leisurely supper, an evening at Manzi’s captures the essence of what makes Soho magic.
Manzi’s in Soho is open Tuesdays to Sundays, visit https://manzis.co.uk to view the menu or book a table.
