Kentish Town has long had the feel of a well-kept local secret: residential, community-minded, and refreshingly unconcerned with trends. Belly, tucked just off the High Street, reflects that same understated confidence — but delivering something totally new to the area.
The space is compact, seemingly intentionally so, all red velvet banquettes, bentwood chairs, candlelight, and crisp white tablecloths. There’s a certain intimacy usually reserved for Parisian bistros, one that’s difficult to replicate without going over the top. Belly’s interiors strike just the right balance, down to their chalkboard of specials — a rare equilibrium in London’s bustling restaurant scene.
The Vision Behind Belly, Led by Omar Shah
Belly is the work of Omar Shah, a Kentish Town native who’s already made a mark on London’s dining scene, and is bringing his own heritage into this new project. At Belly, which opened in 2025, Shah’s vision is clear: a modern bistro rooted in a deep reverence for his Filipino culinary heritage, fused with traditional French bistro fare. The two seem an unlikely pairing, and I have to admit that I didn’t know much about Filipino cuisine prior to my visit. What follows, though, is an education delivered with confidence, where familiar bistro comforts are gently reframed through Filipino flavours.
Belly’s Starters Set the Tone
The starters set the tone for Belly’s playful, tasteful menu immediately. The steak tartare, for instance, is familiar in form but surprising in execution: the addition of a cured yolk and nori-seasoned crisps transform a classic into something just audacious enough. We opt, however, for the diver scallops, served raw and paired with a spicy, malt vinegar and coconut cream sauce — a dish that borders on theatrical with its presentation but absolutely delivers. The sweetness of the scallops paired with the malt vinegar is surprising — something close to a ceviche, with a welcome twist.
And then there’s the starter that we’re all here for, which seems to have captured all of London’s attention: the tempura cod pandesal slider. Only ten are available per service, and we’re presented with a pillowy Filipino bun with a crisp, light-fried cod fillet, a slice of american cheese and all topped with ikura tartar sauce that pops against the softness of bread. It is playful, clever, and undeniably Instagram-worthy — Belly’s elevated answer to a McDonald’s ‘Filet’o’Fish’ but more importantly, it’s totally delicious.
Belly’s Mains Explore Texture, Comfort, and Contrast
Belly’s mains continue this dialogue of textures and cultures. The seafood caldereta with clams, mussels, and squid in an aromatic, tomato based prawn head emulsion feels familiar but totally reimagined. We also get the woodland mushroom arroz caldo, which features a rich, creamy mushroom sauce with starchy rice, and topped with a soy-marinated egg yolk. There are a lot of spicier, tangier flavours at play at Belly, so this is a welcome, umami addition.
The highlight, however, is the braised cabbage served with pickled cabbage, pear, confit garlic and preserved lemon. This is totally unexpected — even after our waitress told us it was her favourite — the humble cabbage is totally reimagined. It’s rich, fruity, and wonderfully balanced, with the sweetness of the pear cutting through the deep savoury notes, while the preserved lemon lifts everything with a gentle, aromatic brightness.
Dessert at Belly Is Playful, Precise, and Unforgettable
Desserts at Belly are small epics. The frozen custard profiterole with fish sauce caramel may sound daunting, but it is poetry: sweet and salty, crisp and creamy, playful and precise. The ube tiramisu, now certifiably Instagram-famous, is violet-hued and lush, similarly bold, and layered with blueberry compote, drizzled with an ube-infused cream. We also share a scoop of avocado ice cream topped with caviar, olive oil and smoked sea salt, which offers a wonderfully balanced alternative to the sweet tiramisu.
Service at Belly mirrors the food: warm, attentive, and intelligent without ever tipping into performative. Staff offer recommendations as one might offer guidance to a friend, demonstrating a fantastic knowledge of the menu and its history in a way that is genuinely interesting. Our waitress even convinces me to order a mezcal margarita garnished with julienned pickles — despite mezcal usually not being my thing — and she’s absolutely right to do so. The drink is perfectly judged, equal parts smoky and bright.
Something worth noting is that despite Belly’s Instagrammable menu, there is a real mix of clientele, not just the usual influencer crew. Many are older and locals, there are families, there are people dining alone with a book. Belly is genuinely interesting and genuinely special. And it’s clear I’m not the only one who thinks so, as Belly has just earned a well-deserved spot in the Michelin Guide for 2026. Shah has curated a space, a menu, and a team that all serves not just the wider London food scene, but also the local community.
