House of Coco’s wellness editor Anji McGrandles uncovers the hidden gems of S’Agaró, Catalonia’s best-kept secret nestled between Barcelona and Girona on the stunning Costa Brava coast…
Situated on the Costa Brava coast, sandwiched between Barcelona and Girona is S’Agaró, Catalonia’s best kept secret that promises an unforgettable escape. This exclusive garden village is home to some of Spain’s most sought-after villas. Built in the 1920’s it hugs the renowned Cami de Ronda coastal trail and boasts breathtaking views of the Mediterranean Sea and golden sands of Sant Pol beach. At the heart of S’Agaró is the elegant Hostal de La Gavina, the region’s most glamorous, exclusive hotel which I checked into for the weekend.
The region offers an abundance of pristine beaches, Michelin Star restaurants and natural beauty without the crowds. Its easily accessible, just one hour drive from Barcelona and 30 minutes from Girona and what makes this a fabulous getaway is you can easily explore both vibrant cities while making this tranquil retreat your base, its perfect for those seeking a blend of relaxation, culture, and stunning scenery.
While Barcelona is a popular Spanish city break, I recommend you spend time getting to know glorious Girona. This stunning, quieter and more compact city packs a punch when it comes to architecture, history, food and drink.
I arrived in Girona at the end of Temps de Flors, Girona’s flower festival that sees the streets come alive with colour each May. The city is a carpet of colourful, delicate flowers with beautiful blooms decorating gates and doorways.
Girona has a new and an old town, divided by the Onyar River. Several small bridges connect the two districts, the most famous is the bright red bridge built by Alexandre Gustave Eiffel (who also built the Eiffel Tower in Paris). Grab a coffee and one of the city’s most famous breakfast pastries, Xuixo de Crema (pronounced choo choo), a traditional Catalan pastry, that’s crisp on the outside and stuffed with an irresistible creamy filling. Sit on one of the cute bridges, enjoy your Xuixo de Crema and take in the charming colourful town houses that are dotted along the river.
There’s so much history in this pretty city and the best way to explore it is a walking tour. Discover filming locations from Game of Thrones, boutique shops and the city’s striking cathedral. It’s also a gastronomic destination, and if you want to uncover all the hidden gems while trying some of the tastiest local delicacies then book an evening walking tour with Girona Food Tours. Enjoy the freshest seafood at L’Arros or indulge in something sweet at Jordi Roca’s Willy Wonka style gelato, Rocambolesc. Afterwards make a pit stop at Sol Gastrobar in the ‘Wine Square’ for a cold glass or Albariño. If you are looking for fancy dining there’s 12 Michelin star restaurants in and around the area, the most famous of these is the three-starred El Celler de Can Roca, run by the Roca brothers.
During a visit to S’Agaró it is impossible not to be swept up in the silent glamour and history of Hostal de La Gavina, built in 1932, it still has some of the original features, artwork and furniture. There are so many stories seeped into the walls of the hotel, guests like Ava Gardner, Elizabeth Taylor, Frank Sinatra, Jack Nickolson and more recently Lady Gaga have all stayed here.
The hotel beautifully marries an eclectic mix of opulence and hacienda finca. As soon as you enter the sweeping reception area you are greeted with polished marble floors, high ceilings, rich dark wood furnishings and showstopping floral arrangements. Each of the 75 rooms and suites are uniquely designed all in line with rest of the hotel’s chic style.
Hostal de La Gavina is also home to four restaurants, Candlelight, which is overseen by Michelin-starred Chef Romain Fornell and spearheaded by Sous Chef Oriol Fernandez, is renowned for its innovative dishes. Fernandez, a protege of Alain Ducasse, brings his passion and creativity to the table serving exquisite haute cuisine. Garbi, which offers healthy Mediterranean dishes is perfect for lunch, here you can retreat from the sun and sample a spectacular Paella and a glass of the local wine. El Barco, is home to a beautiful outdoor terrace and serves an a la carte menu of seasonal tapas. Just a two-minute walk, perched on the beach is La Taverna del Mar, famed for its locally caught seafood served on the water’s edge. Expect plump pink langoustines, delicate sea bass in salt and juicy mussels served in a rich marinera sauce. El Barco bar is a cute snug, where Ava Gardner and Frank Sinatra had a showdown after he flew out to Spain amid rumours swirling of her affair with a bull fighter. It’s great for a late-night tipple or signature cocktail.
For those who love water sports you can head to Sant Pol beach just below the hotel and try out paddleboarding, water skiing and kayaking. The hotel can also arrange for you to try some local excursions. I’d recommend booking the boat trip with husband and wife duo Clara and Jaume at La Gastronomica. This three-hour journey along the Costa Brava coast is a great way to learn more about the region’s food and wine. Clara, a sommelier has an infectious passion for everything local and along with chef, Jaume they showcase the simplest, freshest ingredients onboard the boat dishing up one of the most delicious brunches I have ever had. Local cheeses, octopus and chickpea stew are served alongside a delicate white Grenache from Empordà. The boat stops off at a wonderful cove where you can swim, sunbathe, snorkel or paddle surf.
This year marks the 100th anniversary of S’Agaró and to celebrate there are a series of events being held from May 2024 – February 2025. There will be exhibitions, a regatta, concerts and a firework display amongst other celebrations, so its worth checking out what’s happening if you plan to visit.
S’Agaró is a standout Spanish destination that delivers the perfect blend of natural splendour, cultural richness and laid back charm. So, pack your bags and discover this enchanting corner of the Costa Brava – where the Mediterranean meets a sense of timeless tranquility.
Book Hostal de la Gavina here. Rates start from €280 (approx. £239) per night for a Classic Room, including breakfast.
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