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Francesca McKay

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Take advantage of the final summer days and the upcoming bank holiday with our guide to The Cotswolds best pub gardens. Francesca has done the hard work for you finding the very best al fresco country pubs to visit for delicious drinks and tasty plates…

The Swan, Ascott-under-Wychwood

Sun dappled and full of flourishing flowers and fragrant herbs, The Swan’s garden is reminiscent of the typical English countryside and is a tranquil environment for a glass of chilled rosé and a lovely lunch (they do amazing sourdough pizzas that are hand stretched then woodfired in the outdoor pizza oven as well as bistro food like steak sandwiches and a choice of salads), and if you fancy going for the whole bottle of rosé, check yourself into one of their unique, country chic rooms. Whether you want shade or full sun, The Swan has you covered (or not!)

https://lionhearth.co.uk/the-swan/

The Back Lane Tavern, Woodstock

Tucked down – literally – a back lane, this tavern is usually teeming with locals from the surrounding gorgeous market town. Sit outside for a smaller bar menu or enjoy an alfresco drink before moving inside to dine from their fuller menu of charcuterie, cheeses and sharing plates. The Vietnamese rolls are definitely one to order but one you might want to keep to yourself – either that or order two!

https://backlanetavern.co.uk/

The Double Red Duke, Bampton

The famous Double Red Duke country pub with rooms and spa needs little introduction. With an on-going schedule of special events including guest chef evenings and live music on the lawn, there is always something exciting going on here – in and out of their large and vibrant Cotswolds garden.

https://www.countrycreatures.com/double-red-duke/

The Perch, Oxford

A true oasis, you would never know you were within a stones throw from Oxford city centre sat in The Perch’s spacious garden filled with picnic tables, ancient trees and a path down to the river. They also have a separate outdoor section with dining tables, a constantly updating specials menu and is sizeable enough to host private events such as weddings with an outdoor bar and secret garden. Order a limoncello spritz and extend summer by enjoying aperitivo hour in the sun. The Perch is truly a place to lose yourself for a few hours, either with loved ones, friends or just a good book.

https://the-perch.co.uk/

The Bull, Charlbury

Recently reopened after acquiring new owners and an extensive refurb, The Bull has a great garden BBQ to order from while taking in the sunshine. There’s also a great Saturday market within walking distance and is soon to get a new neighbour in Daylesford’s latest impending opening of The Bell across the road.

https://thebullcharlbury.com/

The first thing I noticed setting foot into Martinhal Lisbon Oriente was the fragrance. Deep but light; warming and calming. It was instantly inviting and straight away made me feel happy to be there. The kind of feeling that automatically eases your shoulders down an extra inch and is an indication of the relaxed elegance that permeates the hotel. Smiling welcomes from each of the staff, plus the eye-catching art from local artists dotted around the lobby all added to the feeling of a laid back yet fun lux and I knew that I was in for a great mini-break.

Invited as part of a press trip to visit the newest Martinhal property, Martinhal Lisbon Oriente, located in the Parque das Nações district in the east of Lisbon; an area of the city that has been gradually building a reputation for culture; street art, the Oceanarium, a plethora of restaurants and bars and of course the famous cable cars that run parallel to the river past the Water Gardens. In contrast to the historical old town, Parque das Nações is modern, cool and urban.

I usually reside in the tranquil and lush rolling hills in the heart of the beautiful English countryside but from time to time I enjoy a change of pace – a bit of adventure, perhaps a little sun, a bit of experiencing another culture, and it goes without saying, exploring new foods so I leapt at the opportunity to pack my laptop, swimsuit and sunglasses to head to Lisbon, one of the coolest cultural capitals of Europe. In 2018 I spent a week exploring the south of Portugal and ever since Lisbon has been high on my travel list; the climate, the food, the architecture, the history, did I mention the food? Pastel de nata! Salt cod! Cherry liquor!

The first port of call upon arrival was to sit in the garden of the restaurant, Terrace, for coffee, cake and local pastries. Newly constructed as a living building with foliage inside and out, Martinhal Lisbon Oriente is an Oasis within a city boasting panoramic views of the vast river and Europe’s longest bridge. The Terrace has a huge open kitchen where you can see the chefs preparing the fresh menus daily. Taking the theme of being in the eastern part of the city, the menus are based around the concept of “looking east” with lots of fusion from the Middle East, India and Asia – and of course, lots of daily caught seafood. Mesmerised, I watched a chef roll sushi – which then to my absolute delight was served to our table. At lunch I chose the pan fried stone bass on a base of quinoa mixed with avocado and green mango, cut in a brunoise with surgical precision which was every bit as good as it sounds. As a chef who loves dining out, it’s important to me that food delights on the plate – you have to enjoy the dish before you take the first mouthful; a mantra clearly shared by Terrace’s kitchen team. Over the weekend I also ate such delights as Thai beef salad, spiced broccoli pakora, burrata with pineapple chutney and honey, black cod with pak choi that was accompanied by a moreish miso sauce poured at the table, veggie spring rolls, chicken satay skewers. Even the on site baked bread came with hummus, labneh and flavoured oils. The food throughout the trip was consistently flawless, whatever meal of the day it was. With a wide selection of local wine on the menu and seasonal cocktails available in addition to juices, smoothies and non alcoholic cocktails – everyone is thoughtfully catered for which seems to be the MO of the Martinhal brand.

Historically designed for families, Martinhal put connection at the heart of everything they do; for parents on holiday with their children, being able to relax and reconnect mean their children are also relaxed. No matter the age; from the trampoline outside in the garden to the organised activities and babysitting services, there are a plethora of things to do and everything has been thought of. As someone without children, a “family friendly” hotel wouldn’t necessarily be my first choice for a holiday but interestingly, I found Martinhal Lisbon Oriente more grown up and slick than venues not designed for families – quite simply because the way Martinhal have curated this niche is so successful that in comparison to other places where children are left feral to run around screaming, burning off their energy, here both the family unit and the individuals the unit consists of are considered meaning in fact I barely noticed that there actually were children around and among the slick furniture, the neon art and the sun loungers.

Martinhal Lisbon Oriente is slightly different to its other properties in Lisbon and Portugal in that The Parque das Nações district itself is relatively new. Having been purpose built for the World Exposition in 1998 the area has a lot of business travellers plus people from all over Portugal and the world for events at the Altice Arena and again, the thoughtful details, the commitment to connection, Martinhal Lisbon Oriente have built a full business suite, including glass soundproof pods, for digital nomads like me who just want to explore the world while working.

We spent time as a group being looked after and touring not only the Parque das Nações but the old town as well. From the hotel, you can easily reach by foot the second largest aquarium in Europe, a fantastic private boat tour to Belém where if you’re as lucky as us you may glimpse dolphins in the Tagus River as you sip on a glass of Vino Verde and even get to wear the Captain’s Hat as you take on the role of skipper (which I highly recommend for a memorable Instagram moment!). You can participate in street art walking tours and walk to a multitude of restaurants – though you could easily eat every meal for a week at Terrace and never feel that your inner epicure is missing out. A short car ride away you can be in the historical centre browsing little boutiques, marvelling at the architecture and snacking on pasteis de nata or salt cod fritters with a side of chilled white port.

While having dinner at the other Lisbon based Martinhal property, Martinhal Chiado, I sat next to Roman, one half of the husband and wife team behind the brand who talked to me at length about the connection that they are trying to nurture and the importance of quality time, be it as part of a family on holiday, or a digital nomad taking advantage of technology and the freedoms it can afford. The rooms are furnished with kitchens and even washing hidden away machines in the rooms bringing an extra level of freedom and flexibility and making it perfect for long or short term stays.

At the Oceanarium there was a sign quoting “nothing lasts, nothing’s finished, nothing’s perfect” and isn’t that life itself in a nutshell; always in motion, the sands of time rushing away. The best we can hope for is to find moments to build memories; to strengthen connection; to each other, to the land, to the food on our plates. And as a foundation for that desire, Martinhal Lisbon Oriente is about as close to perfect as it is possible to get.

https://www.martinhal.com/locations/residences/

Martinhal Lisbon Oriente offer rooms from studios to suites perfect for short and long term stays for solo travellers, families and world explorers

Driving the winding Cornish country roads is not new to me. Having spent chunks of my year every year since birth in Cornwall and having lived there for a time, the landscape and way of life is second nature. Though despite that familiarity it never gets old. The vibrant yellow stems of coconut scented gorse in spring, replaced by elegant meadow vetchling wildflowers in summer that follow the winding curves of the narrow B roads, where, if you’re close enough to the coastline, as you round a corner you may be lucky enough to snatch glimpses of bright crystalline blue; a shimmering susurration that catches your breath and stops your heart (is it still the done thing to yell “first one to see the sea!”?).

Of course, Cornwall doesn’t always look like this. It’s not all cerulean skies and warm sunshine, wisps of hazy white clouds lazily drifting by…there are days where, in an endless ombré stretching from delicate silver to deep gunmetal, the sea and sky become indistinguishable, with moody clouds rolling like a bedsheet hung out on the line to dry in the breeze.

But the Kernow way of life is evergreen. After all, the Atlantic Ocean is never not cold and wet (even if during the two days I spent with Wavelength, particularly after paddleboarding there happened to be lively debate about sea temperature; there’s no doubt the natives are of stronger stock…!) and there is something about the dark and mysterious skyline that is equally as intoxicating as the glorious sun filled days.

Having been invited as part of a small group to learn more about Wavelength, a locally produced and small batch fermented alcohol free spirit, I arrived alone at their HQ in the middle of the quiet countryside and the weather couldn’t have been better if we’d had a hotline to Zeus himself. I felt a warm tranquillity wash over me before my car had even rolled to a stop. Welcomed initially by the herd of dairy cows lined up at the gate ready to inspect visitors, I then met two sets of curious portly pigs with backstories so salacious you need never watch another episode of Succession (you’ll have to visit if you want the details…). By the time I met an actual human being I was being warmly welcomed by the founder himself, Eddie Lofthouse, who ushered me inside the slick but laidback building complete with wooden decking, festoon lighting and deckchairs peppered around outside. While Eddie took my coffee order my head was spinning as I looked around thinking what a perfect place for a party.

Although I only spent pockets of time with Eddie I quickly got the sense that he is equal parts entrepreneurial spirit and salt of the earth (ocean?) who segues from boardroom to surfboard with ease. While showing us the vast barrels of botanicals – some of which are hand harvested from the site that the fermentary sits on – during a tour he talks about the fermenting process like a man who has learned it the hard way: first-hand.

Like all true entrepreneurs Eddie has surrounded himself with a brilliant and fiercely loyal team and it was evident that the concept of balance is not just a company catchphrase but a way of life; everyone works hard but also makes time for fun, family and rest. And so, after learning and a lunch of feasting on a luxurious spread of cheese, fruit and charcuterie, all provided by a local chef, we checked into the Polzeath Beach House then hit the sand to bask in the rays and waves and appreciate the natural beauty of the coastal landscape around us.

Fermented like kombucha, starting with tea and using a scoby, Wavelength, flavoured with hibiscus (which is what gives it that beautiful “Ruby” hue) has a fruity, bitter edge to it is not your average non-alcoholic spirit. In large part because Wavelength isn’t designed just for dry drinks. Served with tonic over ice with the optional addition of prosecco, the beauty of it is that it can also be used to craft both no and low alcoholic drinks – and with more people drinking less or abstaining completely there is a rising demand for non-alcoholic options that actually taste nice. Drinks that are interesting and well crafted.

Admittedly, I fall right into the target market for Wavelength. For the past year or so, since I moved to the countryside and find myself having to drive more, I have to think about my alcohol consumption when socialising and so have found myself exploring low and no alcoholic alternatives in stark contrast to my pre-pandemic days of city living where rounds of wine were followed by the night tube, or an uber. I still want a glass of wine with dinner but perhaps I’ll have a non-alcoholic Ruby Spritz beforehand to get the best of all worlds; nice food, nice drinks and a fun evening out – and that’s what Wavelength is all about: balance and enjoying life. Laura, House of Coco’s formidable founder has been publicly documenting her journey to a fully sober life. What started out as a finite and experimental period of time has developed into a long term lifestyle choice for Laura as she has seen first hand that fun > alcohol.

There are so many reasons in modern times that people want to drink less – or not at all – but rather than, as in times past, this topic being taboo and the demographic being overlooked, it’s now becoming the norm as people think more about their physical health, mental health and are viewing their lives and enjoyment in a different way.

During the two days I spent with Wavelength, we spent time at the beach, walking scenic coastal routes in the warm sea air, drinking lunchtime Ruby Spritz cocktails knowing we could spend the afternoon paddleboarding and having beach saunas. We also ate steak and chocolate brownies, drank champagne and got river taxis across the Rock – Padstow estuary. It was a little bit of everything; two days of the perfect balance Wavelength represents – if only every day could be like this. They describe themselves as “Complex, beautiful and weird. We are alive” and I really couldn’t agree more; it’s what we should all aspire to.

RECIPE for Ruby Spritz – the signature serve

  • 50ml Wavelength Ruby Aperitif
  • 200ml Mediterranean Fever-Tree Tonic

Build in a wine glass with lots of ice and a wedge of pink grapefruit or orange

Wavelength Drinks

If I had to sum up Adam Henson’s Cotswold Farm Park in one word, that would be easy. Peaceful. Magical. Fun. Any of those words work. What would be harder would be trying to accurately convey the experience of being there into a string of comprehensible words.

We’re all susceptible to the hustle and bustle of regular life; the daily grind that gradually brings us to the realisation that we need a break, a change of scenery. A vacation, or even better sometimes, a staycation.

Adam Henson's Cotswold Farm Park

Escaping the Chaos: A Tranquil Retreat at Adam’s Farm Park

Following several weeks of an intense work schedule, the general hectic pace of modern living, and emerging from winter hibernation, Adam’s fantastic team invited me and a guest to the Farm Park for a day and night of R&R.

From time to time there are questions in life that don’t require deep thought. This was one of them. Other questions that don’t necessitate contemplation: “Would you like pink fizz in a wood-fired hot tub with private panoramic views of the rolling Cotswold countryside?”. Yes. “Would you like to bottle-feed newborn lambs?”. Yep. “Would you like to stroll through lush grounds among the extraordinarily cute furry, fleecy, and feathered residents while learning about different breeds of livestock and farm animals via a history trail?” Yes, and yes.

Even with other guests milling around, there is a stillness broken only by birdsong, the gentle bleating of new lambs, and the deep rumble of lowing cows. Upon entry, we were greeted by a solitary blackbird singing a welcome soliloquy perched atop a tree. Welcome indeed.

Adam Henson's Cotswold Farm Park

The first port of call instinctively is to walk. Through the nature trail. Through the green, green grass. Watching the interaction between sweet four-legged families. Laughing as kid siblings butt each other, running around and playing, knocking one another to the ground.

Adam Henson's Cotswold Farm Park

Once in our private cabin, we made a beeline for the sliding glass door to check out the panoramic views as we could see that we were in for a beautiful sunset. Out on the decking, it was so peaceful that while sharing a bottle of Adams Rare Breed pale ale (brewed using barley grown on the farm) and taking in the late afternoon glow of a sun low in the sky, a lone crow flew overhead with an audible murmur of its powerful wings in motion. It was a sound that despite being country dwellers neither of us had heard before and it was yet another moment where we looked at each other acknowledging that although only down the road, we were far from home.

My highlight was bottle-feeding the babies. I did remark on the way into the animal barn that I felt about 35 years too old to be doing this sans a small child on my arm however no one batted an eyelid and I was far from the only grown-up excited about these tiny, wobbly infants. Fascinating to watch as they ran around, tripping over each other, playing and exploring, still learning to navigate their way around this weird and wonderful new thing called life.

I lost my heart to a one-eared goat kid named Vincent (after Van Gogh we assumed) who had a beautifully gregarious and curious nature with fur soft as silk. One of his roomies, a very talkative little lamb who never ceased his tiny bleating was endlessly entertaining. I surveyed the feeding barn strategising which one was tiny enough to fit under my jumper for a quick getaway…Vincent!?

A Memorable Escape to Adam Henson’s Cotswold Farm Park

After the sunset and being suitably fed, we made use of the hot tub; glasses of rosé never far from hand, soaking in the warmth of the water, gazing at the stars, and chewing the fat of life.

The following morning it was straight back down to the barn to feed Vincent some brunch then upon leaving we walked back past that first tree, blackbird still in situ. Still singing, only this time a beautiful “It’s not goodbye; it sees you later”. As with everything in nature, the beauty of the Cotswold Farm Park is in its simplicity. By just falling into step with the perfect pace of the natural world, the stresses of the manmade world fall away.

Going back to my initial question of how to sum up Adam Henson’s Cotswold Farm Park in one word…well, actually, you can’t. Upon leaving, and in the days afterward, I came to realize it was a feeling.

This is a place to make memories. The kind of beautiful memories that stay with you always; the ones you reach for at every family gathering for the rest of time. It’s a place to enjoy, to switch off and wind down. A place to learn – even if you don’t intend to.

But mostly, it’s a place that makes you stop and look back over your shoulder for one last glance before rounding the corner to go home to the hustle and bustle of daily life, and to finally reply to the melodic blackbird…’ adieu pour l’instant’.

I may have left Adam Henson’s Cotswold Farm Park for now but I don’t think this beautiful place (or Vincent with his one soft ear) will ever leave me.

The Farm Park is open daily from 9.30 – to 5 and hosts six luxury lodges that sleep 4 6 people, complete with fully equipped kitchens, Weber barbeques, and those dreamy wood-fired hot tubs. They also have glamping options for sleeping up to 7, camping pitches for those who like to do it their way, and camping pods for those who like to do it their way but not perhaps brave all the elements.

If you prefer not to make use of the kitchen there is the option of the Ox Shed, the onsite restaurant that also offers a take-out service if you don’t feel like dining in (or out, under festoon lighting). Saturday nights see live music to enjoy over dinner and drinks.

https://cotswoldfarmpark.co.uk/

Diddly Squat:

Surely the star of Clarkson’s Farm needs no introduction; nestled with panoramic views in the heart of Oxfordshire, you can find “bee juice”, chilli chutneys and tea towels before sipping a pint of local brewery Hawkstone’s finest beer and cider while taking in the sunset. Just be sure to get there early (or aim for mid-week during term time) or be prepared to queue.

https://diddlysquatfarmshop.com/

Broadway Deli:

Beautiful independent deli in picturesque Broadway, this Aladdin’s Cave, although not strictly a farm shop, is every foodies heaven and has been selling incredible, fresh and varied produce from local suppliers and around the globe, as well as running their garden café for over 20 years. Grab a coffee before taking in the sights of this gorgeous Cotswold village.

https://broadwaydeli.co.uk/

TEALS:

Opened during the first lockdown, TEALS, a farm shop and café near Yeovil, in Somerset, takes pride in its local organic produce (look out for the “50 in 50”; 50 suppliers within 50 miles of the site). Here you can pick up anything from local cheese, sourdough, kombucha and craft cider – and even the tableware to serve it in. It’s the perfect pit stop between London and the South West.

https://teals.co.uk/

Bruern Farms:

This farm shop, on the Bruern – Milton junction, champions locally grown produce, biodiversity and community making it a wonderful place to while away a few hours browsing their deli, having a bite to eat in their coffee shop and taking a stroll through the glorious grounds. Look out for their quarterly farmers markets supplied by local artisan crafters and food producers

https://bruernfarms.co.uk/

Gloucester Services:

It might seem odd to encourage visits to a service station but when you arrive at Gloucester Services, you will see that this is not a place for a stale sandwich and underwhelming bouquets of flowers. You could do your entire weekly shop here (albeit for a price) and it’s easy to lose hours browsing the shelves of artisan and local products before grabbing coffee and a croissant to continue the rest of your journey.

https://gloucesterservices.com/