A powerful placement in the heart of Soho, Bill’s has become far more than a welcoming pit stop to refuel in the heart of town.
An old kid on the block with a fresh facade, since namesake Bill himself sold to the Caprice Holdings team – the guys behind London stalwarts including The Ivy, J Sheeky & Sexy Fish to name but a few – he has retained a firm hand on the brand identity he has long held so dear.
Our visit was a breath of fresh air, I arrived expecting standard but satisfactory chain fayre based on historical Bill’s experience and left extolling the unexpected joys of our culinary experience.
This brand has undergone an multi venue refurb at a cost of around £16 million and still rising but the turnaround has been significant, breathing new life into Bill”s & putting it firmly back on the dining map of Great Britain.
Historically, Bill’s transcended the generations, with an expansive but lazy menu in a ‘one size fits all’ blueprint but fast forward to today, inclusively catering for the demanding British day to evening crowd whilst not stifling their signature breakfast & brunch offering in the process, is a tough nut to crack.
It’s a juxtaposition that is paying off though, as the fleet now goes from strength to strength and is building a new gen returning clientele.
Let’s turn our attention to the food offerings which have undoubtedly been elevated from mediocre to noteworthy and Bill’s signature style shines through.
I excitedly received my pulled duck starter which was presented imaginatively but unpretentiously. The unexpected accompaniment of watermelon and coriander worked surprisingly well with the sticky barbeque sauce.
Burrata drizzled in chargrilled red pepper, white truffle oil & baby basil for my dining partner was heavenly and a great accompaniment to the bustling atmosphere with excited chatter, buzzy waiting staff and a fresh, opulent aesthetic.
For mains, it’s a bit of a moral dilemma to bypass a Bill’s burger, a menu fundamental after all. So we opted for the classic signature beef dish and a multi layered brunch sandwich which consisted of succulent grilled chicken, smashed avocado, lettuce and tomato slathered with a piquant roasted garlic and basil aioli with a side of rosemary salted fries.
I only chose this because we saw it being delivered to a nearby table and my food envy kicked straight in. Filling and flavoursome, our dishes did not disappoint.
Personally, the undeniable jewel in the crown was dessert though. Bill’s flowerpot was exactly that – an edible miniature flowerpot which looked so pretty and tasted delicious. Strawberry cheesecake with chocolate soil, fresh strawberries and an edible flower as garnish. A true homage to the founder’s humble greengrocer beginnings where he showcased his seasonal produce in such an innovative and galvanised manner, it founded his empire.
We also had the less striking but no less tasty apple pie sundae – a fabulous fusion of cubed apple pieces, caramel sauce, cinnamon and shortbread biscuit wedges, quite the hearty ending to a truly enjoyable dining experience.
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