Ebru Gulsel, the visionary force behind Smilla Brav, has transformed her passion for design into a thriving brand of handmade treasures. With a background in Fashion Marketing and Graphic Design, Ebru embarked on her professional journey as a journalist at Dogan Burda. Venturing into the corporate realm, she contributed her talents to esteemed companies such as ThyssenKrupp, Sharp Corporations, and IQVIA, honing her skills and gaining diverse experiences.
In 2008, Ebru turned her creative hobby into a full-time pursuit by founding Smilla Brav. Today, the brand has evolved to meet the contemporary woman’s daily chic with handmade and sustainable bijoux pieces. In 2018, Smilla Brav expanded its focus to include sustainable, timeless fine jewelry, showcasing a commitment to conscious craftsmanship.
While bijoux pieces continue to be crafted in the Heidelberg workspace, the Smilla Brav Fine Jewellery Line is a testament to the fusion of time-honored techniques and contemporary design. Master goldsmiths at the Grand Bazaar Istanbul bring these pieces to life, utilizing recycled sterling silver as a testament to the brand’s dedication to sustainability.
Driven by love, nature, tradition, and culture, the Smilla Brav team finds joy in the creative process, constantly seeking new adventures in the world of design and materials. Each collection tells a unique story, with every piece serving as a protagonist in this narrative of craftsmanship and artistry.
Ebru Gulsel’s philosophy is embodied in the brand’s commitment to fair craftsmanship, with each piece lovingly created by hand in the atelier in Heidelberg, Germany. The result is not just jewelry; it’s a manifestation of passion, dedication, and a celebration of beauty. Let’s dive in…
Can you share with us the journey that led you from a career in journalism and corporations to becoming the founder of Smilla Brav? What motivated this transition?
During my Fashion Marketing studies, I interned in various roles, from sales at Armani to warehouse work at Ralph Lauren and laboring at a fabric factory. A pivotal moment came with an internship at a fashion magazine, leading to freelance film critiques. The allure of the industry, from the scent of printed pages to seeing my name in editorials, fueled my passion. Though offered a full-time reporting position post-graduation, I transitioned to corporate life for financial stability. While fulfilling, the need for creativity persisted, driving me to attend diverse creative courses, including goldsmithing at Alef Gallery in Istanbul. This marked the turning point, where I realized my true calling.
Your educational background combines Fashion Marketing and Graphic Design. How do these disciplines influence your creative process when designing jewellery?
My diverse education provided a valuable skill set, incorporating trend analysis, consumer understanding, brand identity development, visual communication, technical proficiency, and marketing expertise. Additionally, studies in Online Publishing equipped me with website creation skills. I’m deeply involved in every step of the process, from material selection to design aesthetics. In the absence of our graphic designer, I can handle visual work, ensuring a holistic approach to the creative process.
Smilla Brav has evolved from a hobby to a full-time brand. What pivotal moment or realization encouraged you to take this step and turn your passion into a business?
As a single mom with a three-month-old, I moved to Heidelberg, Germany, for a fresh start, receiving support from my father for childcare. To sustain myself, I began translating and crafting jewelry. Setting up a website, designing the logo, and handling legal aspects were natural steps for me. Inspired by the novel ‘Smilla’s Sense of Snow,’ I named the brand Smilla Brav. The success exceeded expectations, affirming my decision to pursue my passion full-time.
Sustainability has become a significant focus for your brand. Could you elaborate on how this commitment to sustainability shapes your design philosophy and business practices?
In terms of design, I start by personally overseeing material sourcing in Istanbul biannually, ensuring the origin and reliability of each stone and bead. Our stainless steel and silver are locally produced from recycled materials, with regular visits to verify environmental standards. Attention to detail extends to materials like freshwater pearls, valuing both imperfect and perfect pearls equally to reduce waste. We maintain a firm stance on sustainable production, emphasizing the importance of responsible material costs.
The transition from creating bijoux pieces to introducing sustainable, timeless fine jewellery is noteworthy. How did this expansion align with your brand’s vision and customer base?
The journey had its highs and lows. Initially, crafting within the Grand Bazaar led to an oriental style that didn’t resonate with our existing clientele. Sales declined, prompting a shift to focus on wholesale endeavors. Infusing more personal touches and finding a balance between classic elegance and playful style revitalised our approach. After four years of crafting fine jewelry, we now strike a harmonious balance that resonates with our customer base.
Handcrafting jewellery requires both artistic vision and technical skill. How do you balance these elements in your creative process, especially when working on your Fine Jewellery Line?
Our skilled goldsmiths undergo extensive training, balancing technical expertise and artistic vision. The saying ‘Übung macht den Meister’ (practice makes perfect) rings true, as with time, both aspects become second nature. Balancing the intricacies of fine jewellery involves maintaining a delicate equilibrium between artistic expression and technical precision.
Smilla Brav’s Fine Jewellery Line is handmade by master goldsmiths at the Grand Bazaar Istanbul, blending traditional techniques with modern design. Could you share an anecdote about a piece that exemplifies this fusion?
I once sketched a phoenix pendant and, during a visit to the Grand Bazaar, witnessed the masterful creation of a dazzling phoenix adorned with vibrant stones. Recognizing a misalignment with our clientele’s preferences for simplicity, I requested a version without stones, embracing the clean, chic aesthetic. This anecdote encapsulates the fusion of traditional craftsmanship with a modern, customer-centric approach.
Recycled sterling silver is a key material in your Fine Jewellery Line. How do you see this choice contributing to the broader conversation about sustainability and responsible sourcing in the jewellery industry?
Our commitment extends to incorporating recycled stainless steel, known for durability. We repurpose stones and utilize handmade ceramics, emphasizing upcycling. While challenges arise in sustainably sourcing limited-edition pieces, we empathize with companies facing similar dilemmas. The issue of greenwashing underscores the need for comprehensive oversight throughout the production process, ensuring true sustainability.
Nature, tradition, and culture are prominent sources of inspiration for your team. How do these diverse influences come together to create the unique stories behind each collection?
Our culturally diverse team, including my Turkish, Greek, Jewish, and Russian roots, fosters an open-minded approach. Exploring traditional craftsmanship and cultural influences in new countries, from intricate patterns on ceramics to artistry in carpets, fuels our inspiration. For example, our Studio Glam collection drew inspiration from my time in New York, reflecting the fusion of diverse influences into cohesive, thematic collections.
Every piece in your brand is fairly made by hand. How do you ensure that this personal touch and commitment to quality are maintained as your brand continues to grow?
All our jewelry, even delicate pieces, is crafted in our Heidelberg studio. We meticulously check quality before dispatching, and I personally oversee production to maintain the highest standards. Despite ongoing growth, I remain dedicated to retaining production in-house, ensuring quality control and a personal touch.
With a career path that has taken you through various industries, what lessons or skills from your earlier roles have you found most valuable in building and managing your own successful brand?
My experience in international companies provided insights into essential business processes, equipping me with organizational skills, corporate communication understanding, and administrative proficiency. Balancing the business-oriented aspect with creativity is crucial, especially in the early stages. This dual focus, coupled with self-discipline, has been pivotal in establishing and managing my own business, including financial responsibilities.
Looking to the future, what aspirations do you have for Smilla Brav? How do you envision your brand continuing to evolve and make a positive impact in the world of jewellery and design?
I envision Smilla Brav becoming a leader in sustainable jewelry and design. Investments in advanced technology like 3D printers using recycled materials and an engraving machine showcase our commitment to eco-friendly practices. Our new showroom opening in October will offer customers insight into the production process and a chance to bring their ideas to life. I’m excited about introducing a capsule collection for women’s clothing next year, aligning with our brand’s timeless style and eco-friendly values, expanding our impact and connecting with a broader audience.
Our readers love to travel, what destination is at the top of your bucket list?
India and Japan.
Where do you call home?
Istanbul and Heidelberg.
What does self-care mean to you?
Self-care, to me, means steering clear of drama and negative influences, enjoying nature, having fun, reading, and cherishing quality time with my child. It involves prioritizing well-being and finding joy in simple pleasures.
Where can people find out more and follow you?
Stay updated with our latest designs and collections on our website at www.smillabrav.com. For a personal touch, follow our Instagram account @smillabrav, where I curate images, providing a glimpse into our creative process. Thank you for following our journey!
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