Nestled in the Hollywood hills (no, not those ones) sits The Culloden Estate and Spa. A former Bishops palace and now a luxury five star hotel with far reaching views of the County Antrim coastline, manicured gardens and woodlands and enough antiques to shake a stick at – this was exactly what the doctor ordered for some serious R&R and we couldn’t wait to feel like queens for the weekend. 

As we touched down in Belfast the rain lashed and the skies darkened. In the brief walk from departures to taxi rank we were sodden, suitcases now resembling sponges, hemlines of jeans fully saturated. Undeterred we laughed, plans of ambling around the coastline in early winter sun were soon replaced with visions of log fires and glasses of red wine and this suddenly felt all the more enticing. If we were going to do Northern Ireland, we were going to do it properly – chowder and chunky knits all round.

Location, location, location

As our taxi made its way up the winding drive, through the gates of the hotel and pulled up alongside the revolving front door, the backdrop of Belfast Lough bleeding into the moody grey skies, our jaws dropped. We knew we were in for a treat, further cemented by our taxi driver cooing “ooooh, fancy” when we told him our destination, we didn’t know we were in for this much of a treat. Towering spires drawing our bulging eyes upwards, following the pitched roof line down to the manicured gardens which at our time of visit were hosting a sculpture exhibition, further adding to the drama. Beyond this, the warm glow of the on site pub, The Cultra Inn, shining like a welcoming beacon and behind that, the faint outline of Antrim coastline and its rolling hills promising breathtaking views as soon as the clouds cleared. Ushered out of the rain by the impeccable concierge team, we were instantly enveloped in warmth radiating from the log fires and staff alike.

The Culloden is a short drive from both Belfast City airport (ten minutes) and Belfast International (forty minutes) and a mere fifteen minute drive from Belfast city centre. For non drivers, taxis are cheap and easy to get or guests can opt to amble through the estate gardens to the nearby train station – fear not, it’s close proximity has no negative impact on the hotel itself – from here they can take the very scenic fifteen minute train ride along the coast right into the centre of town. Or do as we did, walk half the way along the dramatic shore armed with a Baileys laced hot chocolate, making sure you take in the impressive houses and quaint fisherman cottages along the way and jump on the train when the Irish wind gets a little too much. The location and accessibility of the hotel makes it a fantastic option for city breakers and weekend awayers, however, you will be hard pressed to find the want to leave the hotel with everything it has on offer.

Spa time

Having checked into our room and performed the appropriate checks : starfished on the bed to ensure we could both share comfortably – check. Gasped and squealed at the views the floor to ceiling windows offered – check and gobbled the chocolates left for us – check. We de-robed from our sodden clothes, re-robed with our complimentary soft, fluffy gowns and headed down to the spa. It’s always a bit of a ‘hold your breath’ moment when your plus one has worked in the spa industry for years but with an offering like this there was no need. If the hotel started its life as a palace, the spa is the jewel in its crown. As we entered through a hallway lined with geodes and crystals, the air heavy with the heavenly spa smell  – not a whiff of chlorine – a wave of calm and serenity washed over us. The unavoidable flusters of early morning flights and damp commutes washed away instantly. Our shoulders dropped, our chests opened, this is exactly what was needed. A huge octagonal pool swathed in natural light from the glass vaulted ceiling called to us, its warm waters desperate to soothe away any tension. Next to it a long jacuzzi with floor to ceiling windows looking over the hills. A sauna with the same square footage as a family home meaning no uncomfortable knee bumps with other spa dwellers. Loungers dotted around in such a way that never felt crowded. 

The spa treatments boast a fusion of advanced techniques with ancient therapies, menus include ‘inner strength and resilience massage’ and ‘solar experiences’ all of which are aimed with one main focus – to leave you revitalised and restored. We both opted for the inner strength massage, the promise of yogic stretches combined with resilience boosting massage techniques was an offer we couldn’t turn down. We walked into our respective treatment rooms and entered another plane, ninety minutes later and politely brought back down to earth via the relaxation suite, we looked at each other and with nothing more than a smile and a grunt, knowing we had both had the same otherworldly experience. We sipped our herbal tea in smug silence as we returned back to reality.

The Cultra Inn

That evening we ummed and ahed with the idea of heading into the city center for dinner and drinks but with the rain lashing, the massage induced coma only just subsiding we opted to get snug and head down to The Cultra Inn, a pub less than a five minute walk from our room – winner winner chicken dinner. Well, steak dinner for me. 

The traditional pub, all wooden beams and vaulted ceilings, champions local seasonal produce. Relaxed and cosy, the lick of the fire reaching into every corner, this was the perfect end to the day. A full bodied bottle of red, a steaming bowl of Irish chowder followed by a locally sourced sirloin steak with all the trimmings – yes please. A moment of transparency if I may, this pub is not fine dining, nor should it be. Would I say it is up there with the best meals of 2023? No. Would I say, it was exactly what was needed on a cold, gloomy night? Absolutely. Full and content we mosied back to our room, bottle of unfinished red in hand. Climbing into our giant cloud bed – an actual term the hotel has coined and uses with pride, armed with chocolate cake (swiped from earlier) and a glass of red wine – this is how you do a girls weekend.

Breakfast of champions

The following morning, well rested, muscles still soft as butter from the previous day’s relaxation, we headed down for breakfast. Served in the main dining room, all white table cloths and china tea pots, I suddenly thought perhaps my baggy jeans and complimentary slippers were not the correct attire. I was quickly put at ease because the thing The Culloden does so well is blur the lines of what is very clearly a historic palace and all the fixings that go with such a place with buckets of irish charm and an air of laid backness. Yes the wait staff and concierge are suited and booted but they are also ready and waiting to chat the breeze and crack a joke with the guests as if they are lifelong friends, instantly removing any feeling of austerity. 

The breakfast was bountiful, silver cloches itching to be lifted and reveal their treasures – all the components of a full Irish (and English) breakfast, plus touches such as porridge laced with local whiskey and an a la carte offering for those who prefer smashed avocado to white pudding. 

Things to do

Fuelled on a very hearty breakfast we were ready to brace the elements and explore the surroundings. A quick turn through the gardens and on to the coastal path where we allowed ourselves to imagine we were on our way to the Iron Islands (for any Game of Thrones fans, this hotel is the perfect base to explore the Northern Island filming locations and the concierge team can help you plan the best excursion). A short train ride and we were at the Titanic Museum, a must for everyone and then on to an exploration of the city itself.

Returning to the hotel it was time for the rest portion of our R&R weekend and we couldn’t have asked for a better setting. Deciding to head to the drawing room where big sumptuous sofas called our names and a fire roared, we both curled up with our respective books armed with tea and biscuits. Looking up every so often at the big grey sky, listening to the rain pound down until eventually it was time to pull ourselves from our cocoons and get ready for what can only be described as one of the best meals of the year. But not before a long, hot bubble bath.

Supper fit for a queen at Vespers

Vespers is the hotel’s main restaurant – a fine dining affair, serving modern Irish cuisine in the format of a tasting menu. Perhaps unfairly of me, I didn’t have the highest expectations – I have been burnt in the past by hotel restaurants. Chefs stifled by owners scared to push boundaries for fear of losing more traditional hotel guests. Having eaten in the pub the previous evening, I wondered if the offering here would be similar, good but not great. How wrong I was. Perfect plate after perfect plate expertly paired with exciting and interesting wines, all explained in depth by the wonderful sommelier. 

We started with homemade bread and butter and an amuse bouche of  chicken liver parfait and cherry cannelloni with candied oats – my bouche was well and truly amused and if this was the precursor of things to come, I was ready and waiting with baited breath.

Courses followed of duck ham paired with fruity condiments such as cherry puree and pickled pomegranate. Expertly paired so that the acidity and freshness of the fruit cut through the rich game. The most perfect scallops I think I have ever eaten, caremlised on top, pillow soft in the centre, doused in a bisque foam, sitting on a bed of sweetcorn puree. Welcomed texture introduced onto the plate through the charred corn kernels and roe biscuit. Local venison loin cooked to perfection, served with burnt chicory and a chocolate jus. I don’t even like chicory. I would go as far to say it is my most loathed of all the leaves. This iteration however, I gobbled up like some sort of feral beast, using it to scoop and swipe any remnants of the beetroot ketchup until my plate was clean. A plate of local cheese and oatcakes presented so elegantly it seemed a shame to eat it but eat it I did before being presented with a dessert that could have held its own with the works of art residing in the sculpture garden. A perfectly formed ‘Granny Smith apple’, as my spoon cut through the dazzling green glaze to reveal the lightest apple and vanilla mousse – it was heaven.

Concerned if we put another morsel of food in our bodies we may explode, we began to gather ourselves to leave the restaurant when our wonderful server shrieked “you can’t leave yet, you have petit fours and Irish coffee”. We looked at each other, fear washing over our faces but being of the firm opinion if a job needs doing, it needs doing properly we retired to the bar, briskly followed by a tray of homemade chocolates and an Irish coffee that I am sure was more whiskey than caffeine but who am I to tell the Irish how to make their coffee?

The final goodbye

The next morning, with slightly hazier heads than the day previous, we pulled ourselves out of bed, sad that it was time to go but content with a weekend of sheer joy and nourishment. We packed our bags and pulled back the curtains just in time to see the clouds part and the sun beam through, casting its fan of rays across the water. And with that, we thought it would be rude to leave such a gorgeous setting just at this moment and so with our last hour to spare we donned our robes, ordered pancakes to the room and affirmed that a girls weekend is the best kind of weekend. Especially one spent at The Culloden Estate and Spa.

Suites at Culloden Estate & Spa (https://www.cullodenestateandspa.com// 028 9042 1066) start from £650 per night and Garden Rooms from £350 per night, including breakfast.