Shutters on the Beach or ‘Shutters’ as coined by its nearest and dearest marries the elegance and charm of an East Coast beach house with the laid back energy of its West Coast surroundings. A perfect blend of interiors that wouldn’t look out of place on the Cape with a view that takes in the Santa Monica pier and beyond, a stunning contrast of old meets new.
Setting the scene
Beginning a trip up the Californian coastline, the iconic Shutters Hotel – named on account of its multitude of rooms boasting white wooden shutter doors that open onto sun drenched balconies with views of the ocean – seemed like the perfect starting point. Having had it saved on my ‘one day I will stay here’ list for a number of years, I was beside myself to see if she was as beautiful in the flesh as the many influencers and socialites depicted her across social media.
Pulling into the valet of the hotel, eyes already on stalks at glimpses of the iconic white woodwork and the blue ocean beyond, I felt as if I were entering another world, one of luxury, slow paced living and five star hospitality. Having spent the previous night in a very cool yet incredibly urban (think blocks of raw concrete in the middle of bedroom) hotel in downtown LA, this was the exact contrast I needed. Scooting around important media types who were taking important phone calls on the terrace, I entered into the lobby of the hotel, this couldn’t be further from the brash brutalism of the night before. Dark wood floors draped in exquisite rugs, roaring fires, sofas that invite you to fall into them and wood paneling and low lighting that created an ambience of being in your friend’s (albeit a very wealthy one) living room, which I later found out is what the hotel refers to the lobby as given its relaxed nature and palpable warmth.
The room
I mosied my way through the lobby, people watching on route, finding my way to my room, a further extension of the aforementioned friends’ Cape Cod home. Curated books and artwork line the shelves, accents of blue to mirror the ocean a mere few meters away bring the outside in, hardwood floors adorned with Tibetan rugs, soft billowy comforters placed on top of luxurious linen sheets create an extra layer of cosines. Well thought out details such as an elevated mini bar and a couples kit show why this hotel is considered one of the best in the area.
A huge bathroom housing a whirlpool tub and flat screen TV sits beneath shutters opening into the room allowing for the most romantic of evenings and outdoor views. Touches such as Dyptique shower products mean you will smell as expensive as the hotel itself.
As eager as I was to jump on the enormous bed that needed a step ladder to go with it, I was even more eager to throw open the iconic white shutters open and see what lay beyond – as natural light flooded the room, the breeze of the Pacific whipped around me, I squealed at the miles of white sandy beach back dropped by the Santa Monica pier stretched out in front of me.
This is where things got tricky – with only 24 hours to take in this incredible place, how is one to choose between lounging at the roof top pool that boasts some of the most incredible views across Santa Monica beach, ambling up the Venice boardwalk, running straight into the ocean or sipping a cocktail at one of the hotels stunning bars. You need a good few days to drink this all up.
Opting for a walk along the beach to settle into our new surroundings, this is where the hotel came into its own. As I walked down to the soft white sand, waves crashing ahead, I turned to see where we had come from. The majesty of the hotel proudly opening itself up to the beach below genuinely took my breath away.
Bars & Restaurants
The hotel has three F&B offerings, 1 Pico the more formal of the family draws influences from Italian menus and is a seafood forward menu – perfect as the restaurant boasts even more views across the ocean. Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, this is the place to head for some Coastal Californian dining at its finest.
Coast is the more laid back of the bunch, the perfect place to head for breakfast after a spot of morning yoga (more on that later) for great eggs and the most beautiful chia pudding I have ever seen. Outdoor seating is right on the boardwalk so prepare to watch the world go by as you sip your morning cup of Joe, we were even treated to some top notch busking on our visit. There is also a communal table inside, further cementing the laid back family dining vibe.
Lastly, the Living Room, redefining hotel lobbies for its guests – a meeting place, a spot to have a cocktail or a coffee, somewhere to read in front of the fire or enjoy live music in the evening. Sipping a Pina Colada on the Living Room balcony, I was treated to one of the most epic sunsets as I have ever seen, as the sun slips behind the Santa Monica pier, the bar comes to life, cocktail shakers shake, guests congregate for supper, the energy is bustly yet refined, the perfect spot to start your evening – or any other part of the day for that matter.
The pool
The pool at Shutters is nothing short of iconic. Sitting atop the roof terrace and stretching nearly the entire length of the hotel, it is flanked by cabanas and sun loungers alike, all boasting the striking white and blue colour palette like a precisely turned out army. If you can get there early doors to secure a front row lounger with uninterrupted views of the beach below, even better but truth be told, there isn’t a bad spot here.
The beach
Santa Monica beach is known for surfing, volleyball and beautiful people. The beach concierge team is on hand to provide you with anything you might need, from parasols to bicycles. The hotel also offers beach fitness and yoga classes. Booking on to the latter the following morning as I really tried to lean into this California way of life, when my alarm rang bright and early, I was more than a little tempted to hit cancel and roll back into my memory foam supported slumber. However, a promise had been made and so I heaved myself out of bed and onto the beach. Toes buried in the sand still cold from the night before, waves crashed, sun warmed my skin, occasional dogs ran past in a blur and surfers could be heard discussing whatever it is surfers discuss – it was truly a special moment, as the mist rolled in off the ocean and the rest of the world was near still, there was something ethereal about breathing in tandem with the ocean. I would urge anyone to do it.
Surrounding area.
If you can drag yourself away from the hotel (near impossible but doable), walk up the boardwalk to Venice Beach which is a lovely way to spend a day. More people watching, lots of coffee sipping, oodles of shopping. A turn around the Venice canals and some serious properly lusting is an absolute must. Walk back down Abbot Kinney, a street full of independents and the chicest stores. From here we grabbed a cab back to the hotel but the walk is pleasant and takes about an hour.
Of course, no stay here is complete without a turn around the pier – we found the best way to do it was tipsy from our cocktails, laughing our way across the beach and up on to the ferris wheel complete with candy corn and corn dog. Perfection.
I can happily confirm that Shutter’s is just as beautiful as I had been led to believe and what those little squares on instagram don’t depict is the level of service and hospitality of everyone that works here. You truly are made to feel like you are entering a home to share with the friendliest of families.
Having been fortunate enough to partake in a few American road trips over the years, nothing quite prepares you for the change in landscape and climate that you can experience in a relatively short space of time. In a matter of hours you can be instantly transported into another world, the people are different, the air, the food, the roadsides that flash past you in a speedy blur. As we bid a fond farewell to the dry heat and urban jungle of Las Vegas, we settled into our first long drive of the trip. Armed with Twizzlers, Goldfish and a plethora of other American car snacks, we allowed a needed silence to fill the car, the bells and rings of slot machines and roulette tables slowly dimming in our ears and being replaced with woosh of a coastal breeze.
As we moved further into the Californian coastline it became instantly apparent why West Coasters have a certain reputation of being laid back and carefree. Our weary Vegas bodies began to revitalise. As we put more distance between us and the man made playground, we softened in tandem with the skyline. Sky scrapers and towering hotels were replaced with bloom covered hills and green pastures. The expansive views of city scapes now replaced with blue ocean. Hell, there was even a ‘did that really happen’ moment of a dolphin jumping out of the sea and swimming alongside our car for a stretch of the journey. We had spent our first week rushing in giddy excitement from one experience to the next in a city that makes you think fast and spontaneously, now was the time to slow down and be mindful about our next moves and as we wound our way up the PCH, stopping every couple of kilometres to take in the breathtaking views, we did just that.
Where to stay
The whole coastline of Central California is peppered with accommodations. When conducting some initial research on the Visit SLO CAL website to see the options available it became quickly apparent that tourists from all price points are spoilt for choice.
Fortunately for us our choice had been made for us for one hotel and the second, well that is one I had had on my ‘I have to visit here’ list since the dawn of time.
Picture this, a day on the road in the best possible way. Weaving out of LA and up through Malibu, taking in the elite architecture of the 1% juxtaposed with surf shacks and surfers vans. Blue waves crashing out to your left, white celebrity homes flash past on your right. Squeals of delight as we see dolphins jump through the surface of the water as if they are racing us, murmerings as we wonder who lives behind those gates – Miley or Gaga? All soundtracked to Hole’s Malibu of course. Then up through the Spanish colonial city of Santa Barabara, backdropped by the dramatic Santa Ynez Mountains, a quick stop for ice cream and coffee to fuel up for the final leg up to Pismo – a town known for its surf, beaches and wineries.
There is an old time charm surrounding Pismo Beach, perhaps from the bright lights that showcase the pier or the Americana sign that sits high above the buildings, notifying everyone exactly where they are should they forget. Checking into The Cliffs Hotel, the charm continues. Greeted by an effervescent valet and an even more sparkly concierge, we were ushered to our room. Weary from being in the car for so long, we were now on the hunt for comfort and gentleness. The energy of Vegas had left us, we wanted to hunker down and be looked after, we had come to the right place.
As the door opened to reveal two enormous double beds with a huge jacuzzi style tub perfectly positioned so you could watch the sunset a wave of relaxation enveloped our bodies. It was as if the hotel new what we needed and was here to look after us, “you’ve had a long few days” she cooed, “come, sit on your private balcony overlooking the ocean with this bottle of red wine and cheese plate, afterwards you can run a bubble bath and rejuvenate”. So we did just that and as we reclined in sheer bliss with wine in hand and cheese on cracker, the sky turned to a fiery orange and a pod of dolphins put on a display, the most magical way to end a magical day. Due to our schedule we didn’t have that much time to explore the hotel but if I am ever back in this area I will be sure to – we only scratched the surface but it was a jolly nice surface to scratch.
A thing of legend and a place where we would be housed for the next two nights of our trip. If you have not heard of The Madonna Inn, look it up immediately. Built in the 1950s, the world famous hotel takes residence in San Luis Obispo. With 110 themed guest rooms ranging from the ‘rock room’ complete with boulders and rock faces to the Sugar and Spice room which literally looks like it has been doused in pink sugar, there is something for everyone. It also has a pool, restaurant, cafe & bakery with its world famous pink Champagne cake, shop (that took far too much of my money, I blame the fringed silk shirts), dance hall, horseback riding and breathtaking views reaching over the Prefumo Canyon. It is truly a unique place, full to the brim with kitsch decor, over the top interiors and camp details and I couldn’t have loved a place more.
The Madonna Inn knows what it is and is totally unapologetic about it. She is bold and brassy and some bits don’t work but everyone seems to be ok with that because what she lacks in blinds that close all the way or aircon that stays on, she makes up for in buckets of personality.
We stayed in the Tack Room – a sexy number. Equestrian paraphernalia at every turn – knee high leather boots, saddles, Stubbs-esque artwork on the walls. Pony skin rugs lined the floor and the walls were drenched in a dark red paint that bled into the equally red leather bed heads. I’m still not entirely sure if this room was meant for two girls sharing a road trip but we had a great time nonetheless. Whilst the walls could probably talk you through far more sordid goings ons, we did the next best thing – ran to the shop, bought matching pink horse print pyjamas and ate bright pink cake in bed – it was glorious.
Propping up the bar at The Madonna Inn is an activity everyone must do at least once in their life, if you are lucky enough to be there on an evening when the famous dance hall comes to life you are in for a treat. But fear not if the calendar doesn’t line up, there is live music most nights and whether you choose to dance or sip your pink cocktail on the sidelines, it is always a hoot.
Where to eat and drink
As with most things in this region, you are truly spoiled for eateries. Being one of the best known wine regions in the world and having proudly championed farm to table cooking before it was chic, the people of SLO CAL really know what they are doing in the world of food and drink.
Perched in the foothills of the Edna Valley, this wine estate benefits from the cool ocean breeze and morning fogs rolling in from the Pacific Ocean meaning their Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs are some of the best. The private estate is available to book for dining by request only, a pretentious notion some may think but in actuality, once welcomed in, the benefits are understood. A perfectly tailored experience that allows the somme and chef to take you through both the wines produced and the menu – usually derived from ingredients grown on site or very close by resulting in an informative and one of a kind experience.
The Copper Cafe sits within the aforementioned Madonna Inn. Adopting its namesake from the large copper sculptures that were created from waste of wiring and piping when the hotel was built. The cafe is fun and fabulous. A huge circular bar takes centre stage with bright red leatherette seating surrounding it. Clashing floral carpets and wallpapers make you feel like you are sitting within the brain of a drag queen in the best possible way. Famed for its baked goods, the cake is served in slices about a foot tall – I was convinced this would be a style over substance situation but lo and behold, it was the most delicious cake I have ever eaten – layers of soft sponge with clouds of Bavarian buttercream icing, the cake alone is the stuff dessert dreams are made of. There is also the classic American breakfast, lunch and dinner available where you can expect things to be just as kitsch – think pancakes with pink sugar and baked potatoes wrapped in gold leaf.
The cafe is open to non residents making it a must for anyone passing through.
From the brash boldness of the Copper Cafe to the refined and relaxed sophistication of The Restaurant at JUSTIN – perhaps the most peaceful and tranquil restaurant I have ever eaten at. Another proud Californian winery but this one with Chef Rachel Haggstrom at the helm who has won the place both a Michelin star and a Michelin Green Star for their work in sustainable cooking and harvesting.
Tables are cleverly positioned on the terrace far enough away from each other that lounging labradors have space to stretch – it is dog friendly and it seemed this was the dog of choice on this day – but close enough to create a buzzy ambience, all positioned in such a way that diners can look over the overreaching vineyards. The sommeliers and wait staff are some of the most knowledgeable I have ever come across and move with the energy of worker bees – darting from table to pass to wine cooler, never so much as breaking a sweat, constantly maintaining topped up glasses and brains as they impart their wisdom with their guests. On completion of our lunch and wine pairing, a quick turn around the kitchen garden, the foundation of the seasonal menu and Chef Haggstrom’s pride and joy – herbs and leaves of all descriptions jostled with each other, begging to be picked and plucked ready for the next award winning garden salad. This place is the epitome of farm to table cooking.
An institution within the surfing community of Cayucos, this laid back breakfast to lunch restaurant is famed for its blue corn tacos and waffles and gargantuan smoothies and with good reason.
I don’t even surf but after a breakfast of champions here, sitting on the outdoor patio, watching the waves crash, I felt I could take on a barrel as well as the ripped, tanned guy sitting next to me.
The offering reeks of ‘california cool’, dishes such as ‘Reef Rancheros’ – eggs, black beans, green salsa and Hidden Kitchen hot sauce and huge 16oz smoothies aptly named ‘Big Sur Blue’ fly out of the kitchen to be gobbled up by hungry patrons. Nice touches like a vintage clothes rail where people can leave their wares for the next person to pick up and curated merch make this place what it is, an intricate part of the Cayucos tapestry.
Things to do
You will never run out of things to do in SLO CAL – we could have spent a month there and still not covered everything there is on offer and that’s not including all the places to eat and drink. No matter your age, budget, activity preference there will absolutely be something that tickles your fancy here.
This may have been my highlight of the whole trip. I kid you not when I say tears rolled down my cheeks at one point during this excursion. My traveling companion, a much more outdoorsy type than I, is an absolute sucker for a kayak related jaunt. Knowing she was nearing capacity of wine and tacos and my squeals of excitement that go along with them, I planned a morning on water to soothe her.
Not the strongest of swimmers and with absolutely no hand eye coordination, much to her dismay I insisted we take a double kayak out as visions of me drifting out to sea entered my head. After a quick briefing from the team on the shore about which route to take and what we could expect to see we hopped (slid) in. There had been mention of sea otters and I may or may not have spent the night previous googling ‘how likely is it to see sea otters at Avila beach’. Imagine my sheer joy when we were told “oh yeah, they’re right over there, you can see them bobbing about”. I should probably backtrack slightly here and inform you that I LOVE a sea otter. And there weren’t just a few bobbing about, hundreds of them. Holding hands, rolling around in kelp, ducking and diving – it was one of those moments where you really question “is this my life?” Or at least you do if you are really into sea otters. The water here is perfectly sheltered meaning it was like a mill pond when we wet set sail… paddle (?). After what didn’t feel like anywhere near long enough but was probably nearly 30 minutes of staring at these adorable creatures we moved on to the next wildlife installment, a colony of seals basking on a jetty by the pier, another incredible sight to see up close and personal. We continued our journey to a private beach where we moored up and walked to a lighthouse, very picturesque and nourishing. All round, a fantastic way to spend a morning and something I won’t forget for a while.
If even a gentle kayak is too much like hard work, no shame. May I suggest a visit to the Sol Spa at Hotel San Luis Obispo in Downtown SLO. This cavern of tranquility is ready and waiting to welcome you with open arms. As soon as you step foot in the zen oasis, full of neutral tones, soft music and even softer closing doors, any worries and stresses ebb away before you even make your way onto the massage couch. However, on the couch is where things truly get special. Both my friend and I opted for the signature massage and it was perhaps up there with one of the greatest we’ve ever had. Limbs were manipulated and muscles stretched as the folds and creases of car seats were brushed away from our bodies. From here I would suggest slowly wafting your way to the main hotel for a coffee in the lounge whilst your senses return to your body. Once confident that you can walk rather than float out of the hotel, Downtown SLO is itching to be explored. A university town at heart, full of independent cafes, book stores and record shops – the perfect place to wander around and get lost in. If you can schedule it so you land here on a Thursday then all the better for it as when day turns to night, the town comes alive for the SLO Farmers Market.
SLO CAL was doing farmers markets before farmers markets were a thing so it was with excitement and intrigue we parked up ready to immerse ourselves in town’s pride and joy. Every Thursday sees the main street pedestrianised and lined with growers, suppliers and producers of the county’s finest offerings – fruit,vegetables, cheeses, nut butters it was all here. Purveyors have the prime real estate here but they make way for street food vendors and food trucks so shoppers can grab their goods and then have a bite to eat. Shout out to the steak slinging cowboys – a treat for the taste buds and the eyes. Alongside food and drink is live music and street shows ensuring that the whole town is shrouded in a palpable energy. It is easy to see why it draws in crowds from far and wide.
High up in the Paso Robles hills sits Killer Ridge olive oil farm. A family run affair producing small batch Extra Virgin Olive Oil, not something stumbled upon very often on American soil but during a cycle trip through Tuscany, the owners pondered if California could produce wine like Italy, why not olive oil? And so the fifteen acre farm was established and 835 Tuscan olive trees planted. Now there is a real sense of community with the farm as people are invited to help with harvest and come together to try each year’s produce. Tastings are available where guests can try the variations of olive oil available and learn about the process from the growers.
A short drive from Kiler Ridge lies The Bruce Monro installation : Lights at Sensorio. Another highlight of the trip and something that has been on my bucket list since it opened in 2019. An immersive walk through outdoor exhibit in the Paso Robles hills that is comprised of 100,000 solar powered flickering light orbs. Of all the pictures I had pawed over on Pinterest, nothing could do this spectacle justice. Get here as the sun goes down and prepare to lose yourself in something that feels truly otherworldly.
No trip to this region would be complete without a visit to the legendary Hearst Castle. Once home to William Randolph Hearst and now a museum allowing us mere mortals who could only dream of such an estate a look into the inner workings of such an establishment. I wasn’t quite sure what to expect when I arrived here, I had never heard of it, nor could I find much information online but curiosity peaked and culture vulture engaged, we made our way to San Simeon to see what we could find. If you had told me I would be alighting a bus that climbs the mountain tracks with flocks of zebras either side (yes real ones) I wouldn’t have believed you but that’s exactly what happened. As people congregated at the visitors centre, ready to be ushered on to their allocated vehicle, things started to feel a bit Jurassic Park. The bus heaved its way up the mountain side, through pastures we were told once housed all manor of wild beasts. Past old farm buildings where animals were reared for Hearst’s grand banquets – the originator of farm to table cooking in these parts it would seem, and onto the castle itself. Built in 1947, the complex includes two guest houses, pools and fountains, a cinema and tennis courts. This is where the rich and famous escaped La La land and came to play – if worthy of an invite of course. Designed and curated by one of the first female architects in the US and filled to the brim of wares and finds from travels across the globe, there are seven tours to choose from (it would be near impossible to see everything in detail in one swoop) so choose your preference and prepared to be amazed at what has been created here.
For our last stop of our trip, we wound down from San Simeon and picked up our beloved Highway 1, stopping at a local fruit stand on the side of the road to grab some locally grown strawberries.Making the decision to drive as far as we could up the PCH, knowing it was closed about 40 miles north but wanting to take in as much of the breathtaking scenery as possible and comfortable in the knowledge we could pull off in a multitude of vista points along the way, the first of those being home to a huge colony of Elephant Seals. Another example of the multitude of wildlife that resides in this region and the vast variety of things to see and do here.
As we leant our forearms on the fencing and dangled our heads over so we could see the beach below and the odd looking beasts that inhabited it, I drew a parallel as two weeks previous I had stood in exactly the same position on a Vegas balcony. Bright twinkling lights of the strip dots of sunbeams dancing across the Pacific. The ringing and crashes of the Vegas soundscape replaced with crashing waves and grunting seals. The suggestion of a cocktail now and outstretched hand offering the last strawberry. The excitement of two girlfriends about to embark on an adventure of a lifetime now replaced with a bond only brought about by traveling the world together.
We had a clear idea of what we wanted out of this trip and it delivered in spades. We laughed, we cried, we ate, we drank. We reconnected with each other as we connected with the West Coast – from the dizzying heights of Las Vegas to the slow paced ways of SLO CAL. This road trip mimicked our friendship – a whirlwind of excitement that blows out and paves the way for a long and gentle journey together and I wouldn’t have it any other way.
Getting there
I will always champion driving through as much of this area as you can. Daily direct flights from the UK are available to Los Angeles and San Francisco, both of which are 3.5 hour drive from SLO CAL.
Should you choose not to road trip, there are daily direct flights to San Luis Obispo Regional airport from both Sand Francisco and LA.
In this exhilarating tale penned by our very own Hannah Gregory, readers are whisked away on a whirlwind adventure through the glitz and glamour of Las Vegas, as she embarks on a girls’ road trip with her beloved friend. As a part of the furniture here at House of Coco, Hannah brings her trademark wit and charm to every word, inviting readers to join her on a journey filled with laughter, exploration, and, of course, delectable culinary delights...
I have a friend, a very special friend. Eighteen months ago she was taken away from me – I’m being a tad dramatic, no one died but her husband works for the American Air Force and the time had come for them to be stationed far away from these English lands. Amid the snotty sniffs and gulpy wails of our goodbye we agreed we would meet every year for an epic voyage. Both avid travelers and the majority of our friendship being made up of random road trips and adventures, it was settled – every year an escape, just us, a time to reconnect and explore whilst belly laughing and telling each other how much we had missed each other in the process and so the time came for the first of these expeditions to take place.
We knew we wanted a road trip – America for ease. We knew we wanted epic vistas, a mix of bright lights and cityscapes with jaw dropping scenery and coastal roads. We wanted the quintessential experience – nothing but us, the open road and a banging playlist and most importantly we knew we wanted food and lots of it – a firm believer that nothing reinforces bonds than breaking bread I made it my mission to find the best eats, the most sustainable producers and the most exciting offerings knowing nothing brings people together better than good food.
And so it was settled, I would fly into Las Vegas and meet her there, we would spend a few days in Sin City soaking up everything it had to offer, the glitz, the glamour, the decadence. From here we would wind up the Pacific Coast Highway to SloCal – an area of Central California famed for its slow paced living, food and wine and incredible scenery. The perfect girls road trip that reconnects two friends as they connect with the west coast.
Viva Las Vegas!
Flying into Las Vegas instantly makes you feel like you are the main character of a movie. Forehead pressed up against the glass of the plane window as the iconic strip comes into view, neon lights glowing in popping contrasts against the inky black sky, it’s hard not to daydream about what adventures are about to unfold. Perhaps it’s from watching too many films that site Vegas as their backdrop or maybe the hopeful notion that in a mere few hours maybe, just maybe, you could become infinitely richer. Whatever it is was manifesting itself in a physical reaction – a grin splashed across my face and butterflies doing back flips in my belly, I was ready to revel.
Where to stay
The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas is an adults playground and the perfect hotel for first timers – a luxury and decadent offering in the heart of the strip, its location makes for the perfect base to explore everything there is on offer. Feeling like Charlie when he entered Willy Wonka’s factory for the first time, my eyes were on stalks, never mind the fact I hadn’t seen my friend for the best part of two years, I couldn’t stop looking at the lights, the people, the theater of it all. Entering the hotel under giant chandeliers, bouncing light to create a kaleidoscope of colour over the high gloss black floor, the ringing of slot machines buzzing around the space, cheers and whoops from crowds, cocktail shakers adding a rhythmic beat underneath it all, a place for those who are triggered by sensory overload this is not but for those looking to be fully immersed in everything synonymous with Vegas – this is it.
As the lift whisked us upwards to our Terrace Studio room, the enormity of the hotel became apparent with signs to restaurants, bars, pools and fitness suites flashing past us. You could spend a week here and still struggle to see everything the hotel has to offer let alone what lies outside of it and the enormity didn’t stop there. Opening the door to our studio, the vastness continued – a king sized bed that allowed both of us to fully starfish without fear of punching (very important when spending the next two weeks sharing mattresses), a separate seating area that would have allowed for about fifty people, a bathroom that left me shrieking THAT quote from Pretty Woman and the cherry on top, a private terrace offering views of the strip for as far as the eye could see. As I lent on the balcony, the hot desert air whipping around my face, the colours of the flashing lights creating dancing shadows on the ground below, I thought ‘this is it, this is Vegas’. I could have stayed there soaking it in all night but I was plucked from my neon coloured thoughts by one of my favourite sentences, “shall we go and get a cocktail?”
As we navigated our way through winding corridors, up and down escalators, around clusters of seating areas that I assume are provided to give explorers a needed rest as they traverse the miles of the hotel, we found ourselves in a bar that sat within the belly of the aforementioned chandelier. Strings of crystals draped around us and we sipped on our martinis, we couldn’t have felt more Vegas if we tried. The balcony bar overlooking the main atrium of the hotel is the perfect spot for people watching or to grab a drink before heading to the many options for dinner. However, in an uncharacteristically sensible turn we decided to call it after one – this was a marathon not a sprint after all – but not before setting out on a mission to find Secret Pizza; a hidden ‘grab and go’ pizza joint that I had noticed doing the rounds on social media. As we wound ourselves through the warren of the inner workings of The Cosmopolitan, the secret spot soon revealed itself through a plethora of excited diners giddily running back to their rooms laden with pizza boxes and a queue of people tumbling out a record lined corridor, try as they might to keep this place under the radar, it’s impossible when the slices they are serving are this good. And so, armed with a pie, merry from a martini, we skipped back to our room and fell into a deep slumber ready for the next day.
No trip to Vegas is complete without an amble through The Bellagio, the short walk from The Cosmopolitan takes you past the iconic fountains and into the famous conservatory, filled with ornate floral displays themed to the season, nestled at the back of which sits Sadelle’s. Another of those perfect people watching spots (this soon became my favourite activity in Vegas), starched white table cloths, napkins tied with a bow to represent a tuxedo and waiters dressed to the nines, my movie main character feeling continued. You would be amiss to order anything but the French Toast here – it is stuff of legend. Billowy clouds of thick cut, soft bread doused in syrup, adorned with fresh berries and topped with a mountain of whipped cream. It is what childhood dreams are made of. Sipping my mimosa whilst heaving forkfuls of the sweet breakfast into my mouth, I knew it was going to be a good day.
Our first evening ‘proper’ it seemed only fitting to visit ‘Best Friend’, the brain child and absolute sensation of a place from Roy Choi. A mash up of bodega, bar and restaurant serving his best loved plates from his Kogi foodtruck, as with so many places in Vegas, this isn’t just a restaurant but an experience and an epic one at that. It now proudly sits at the top of my ‘if you go to Vegas you MUST visit here’ list. Entering the ‘bodega’, another sensory overload as eyes adjust to bright lights, walls lined with typical findings on bodega shelves interspersed with merch and artwork, music blares as diners enjoy a quick bite at the bar or wait for their table ‘out back’. It sounds too much but it works, the energy is infectious and even the most weary and jetlagged are instantly recharged. Plucked from the chaos, we were told our table ‘out back’ was ready. Walking through the red plastic butchers curtains and into the restaurant space that could have easily doubled up as a club, the vibe continued with a DJ perched above the tables, playing old school hip hop, watching his audience sway and bounce as plate after plate of glorious food was set down in front of them. The menu here is extensive and everything we tried was fantastic, the slippery shrimp being the hands down stand out dish. It was reassuring to see both tourists (spottable as they couldn’t stop staring in wonder, myself included, at the madness) and residents – yes, those do exist, I know one. A sure fire sign that this is a restaurant worth visiting. This is the kind of eatery that feels like ‘pre’s’, I detest myself for using that word but you know what I mean, you leave high and ready for a party. So we did just that.
I have to admit something. Pre this trip I had never heard of Bobby Flay. I have mentioned this to a couple of Americans over the last few months and the look of sheer horror has been intense. I’m glad I didn’t know who Bobby Flay was because had I known I was going to a restaurant of a ‘celeb chef’ I would have probably balked. Big shiny Food Network status aside, this restaurant was OUTSTANDING. Inspired by Bobby’s many trips to the Amalfi coast, you can expect an extensive seafood offering and big Mediterranean flavours. The jewel of the restaurant being the market led fish display, gargantuan turbots and bright red mullets sitting on a bed of crushed ice, lovingly spiritzed every five minutes by a chef (who I am 99% convinced job’s title is chief spritzer). Diners are invited to talk to the fishmonger about the catch of the day, how it’s prepared etc. I was in heaven, potentially asking one too many questions about the catching methods and sustainability of each floppy flounder but nothing was too much trouble for both the wait and kitchen staff alike. They were eager to take us through the menu, making suggestions here and there, recommending wine pairings and giving a subtle nod when we mulled over the thought of having an additional side. Having spent the two months previous to this trip on a Greek island I was a tad fished out so opted for the steak which was perhaps the best steak I have ever had. My pesci friend devoured the perfectly cooked bass and together we shared plate after plate of pasta, caprese’s and stuffed courgette flowers. Everything about this place was sensational and a complete contrast to the previous night’s Best Friend. Where Roy had encouraged us to dance on the tables (not quite but it probably wouldn’t have been frowned upon), Bobby allowed us to relax in elegance, low level music and the gentle hum of the restaurant allowing for long conversations over plates of pasta and proteins, exactly what was needed for this girls trip. We had danced and now we dined.
When a bar has a queue of about 100 people outside it I instantly have two thoughts. One, that must be a great bar. Two, there is no way in hell I am queuing for a bar. Lucky for me we had a booth reserved and I could be one of those insufferable people that sauntered past the crowd and I can confirm, the queue is absolutely worth it.
Nestled in The Cosmopolitan, a barbershop by day – yes, you can actually get a shave, this speakeasy style affair is everything you want from a bar. Through the janitor’s door and down a staircase you enter a decadent low lit space, all wood paneling and chesterfield sofas with first class whiskey based cocktails and live music that varies from western warblings (in the best way) to karaoke (I think that still counts as live).
Making your way down the ‘secret’ staircase conjures feelings of big kid energy, fully knowing what is in store you still can’t help but giggle and feel you are being led to a secret hideaway. Another fantastic example of Vegas theatre and experiential offerings – a must for anyone visiting.
Determined not to just drink and gamble our livers and life savings away, we took a visit to The Neon Museum. In hindsight perhaps this would have been better at dark so one could appreciate the iconic signs coming to life but it was still just as wonderful by day. A quick taxi ride to the graveyard of Las Vegas past and present and we were immersed in history and iconography. I would highly recommend to any fellow magpies who are mesmerized by flashing, twinkling things as I am – seeing some of the most recognisable signage up close and personal was an absolute treat, not to mention made for a great backdrop for an impromptu photo shoot.
High up in the maze that is Resorts World sits the Agave Bar & Grill, a tropical oasis in the middle of a concrete desert. Vegas pools are often synonymous with party and I’m sorry to say, these 37 year old bodies are just not cut out for it. We wanted relaxed, chilled, cocktails brought to us, massages available on request and Agave delivered. The food offering is stripped back and basic but exactly what is needed to line stomachs before a day of poolside drinking – think burrito bowls and chicken wings, perfect washed down with a Bloody Mary. Perhaps it was due to being ‘off season’ but the pool was calm and tranquil. After two days of heavy drinking and eating, the ability to flop onto a lounger, roll into a pool and have a server bring you a frozen pina colada every thirty minutes was exactly what the doctor ordered and the perfect way to spend a sunny day on the strip.
We knew we had to tick the ‘big Vegas show’ box at least once during our time here and so on our last night we opted for “O”. Having never been to a Cirque show but knowing the reputation of them and that housed in Vegas, we were most likely going to be in for a spectacle, so we excitedly made our way to The Bellagio (with a couple of stops on the slots on route). Nothing could have prepared me for the next two hours of my life. As stages magically moved and shifted, floors became pools of water, acrobats plummeted and tumbled not just across the stage but into it, we gasped and cheered along with the rest of the audience. Sitting on the edge of our seats, grabbing each other’s digits, we were enraptured. I’ve heard people say before that going to the theatre or the cinema is a silly thing to do for a date (appreciate my friend and I aren’t dating but same premise) but I firmly disagree. The sharing of such a spectacle and then being able to dissect it and discuss it afterwards is such a special experience. I would recommend anyone – kids, adults, shotgun weddingers, ANYONE, to go and see this show and prepare to have your mind blown.
Las Vegas reminds me of a festival site. The Cosmopolitan, our very glitzy base camp, the hundreds of activities and eateries all mini stages. Strategically planning days around when we can get back to our room to refresh and rehydrate as you would your tent. Looking at lengths of walk from one area to the other, planning outfits for every eventuality. It was this feeling of play and escapism that captured me, living in your own little man made world that purely exists to provide fun and frivolity. Sure, it’s not sustainable but good lord for a few days it is magic.
And so with that, part one of our girls road trip was complete. Our brief to each other, to eat, to drink, to be merry, to ‘do’ Vegas hard ready for the softness of California and we did just that. Rolling out of The Cosmopolitan car park, a little poorer, a lot rounder and absolutely full to the brim of love and laughter, we were ready to hit the road and Thelma and Louise this trip (minus the murder and double suicide).
Hannah Gregory heads to Glastonbury to visit a 17th century coaching in turned Middle Eastern modern eatery centred around local produce, traditional ingredients and a lot of love.
In the autumn of 2023, Chef Ayesha Kalaji burst onto our screens during her time on MasterChef Professionals with a palpable kindness and exuberance not often seen in that kitchen. In an environment which is usually awash with furrowed brows and pulsing head veins (believe me, I should know) her warmth and passion for the cuisine of her Jordanian heritage were infectious. Impossible to watch without smiling and championing her on from the sofa, I was desperate to try her food and see if what she put on a plate matched what she oozed on camera – joy, fun, effervescence and a knowledge that can only be gained from years of absorbing the know-how of house-hold kitchens, listening to cooks of the family pass down nuggets of wisdom about ingredients and cooking methods. A promise of food as rich in history as it is in flavour.
Location, location, location
A 17th century coaching in turned modern Middle Eastern restaurant, Queen of Cups is nestled in the heart of Glastonbury. Aptly named as both a nod to the restaurants mystical home, drenched in centuries of spirituality, white magic and bubbling energy from the famous ley lines coupled with the tarot card of the same title symbolosing feminine energy, emotional connection and compassion – all of which make up the ethos and heart of the restaurant.
The weekend we visited also happened to be the Frost Fayre, an annual community event to celebrate ‘peace and goodwill to all’ ahead of the festive period. There was something truly magical about winding through the bitterly cold streets of the town, stopping to take in carollers or grab a glass of mulled wine before taking refuge in shops heady with scents of natural oils and potions, knowing our final destination was Ayesha’s warm bosom (not literally). It was impossible to ignore this weird 21st century parallel we found ourselves in… two slightly wise women, following the star (google maps), the air heavy with scents of Frankincense and Myrrh, ambling towards the inn full of middle eastern promise – it truly was a modern-day Christmas tale.
Fortunately for us, there was room at the inn and as expected, we were welcomed in with open arms, the front of house team, either through osmosis or careful selection, exuding just as much charm as their proprietor. Guided through the restaurant, all feminine purple accents and curated artwork depicting various guises of feminine energy, the space is humble and unassuming.
The food
The menu is based around sharing plates all of which promise to be as gloriously colourful as chef herself. With a plethora of ingredients not often seen on this grey land, her team are on hand to guide you through the menu and answer questions effortlessly and enthusiastically. Plates come as they come resulting in a table bursting with colour and smells, each dish begging to be paired with its neighbour – a swipe of the Frena bread in the watercress labneh here, a dunk of a Lebanese spiced potato in whipped Westcombe ricotta there. It is a truly unique and enjoyable eating experience that further cements the notion of bringing people together over great food.
Small plates to pave the way
We began our meal with nibbles of Teta’s (a colloquial Lebanese term for Grandmother and another nod to the importance of family recipes within this restaurant) pickles and Frena bread – a richer, fluffier cousin of the humble pitta. The pickles as sharp and pleasantly pink as you would hope. Not being the best of friends with gluten and not wanting to waste precious stomach real estate, I had every intention of bypassing the bread but when I saw pillowy cloud after pillowy cloud of it appear on the pass it was impossible to resist. With a good char from the hot coals, a lightness that made it looked like it was floating on its plinth and a sheen of butter glistening down it’s curves, I had to have it, gluten intolerance or not and my lord was it worth the bloat that followed that evening. A plate of Watercress labneh with roasted beetroot doused in pomegranate seeds, za’tar and pangrattato to accompany was a match made in heaven – using the bread to mop up every ounce of the thick, punchy labneh, creating perfect mouthfuls with its adornments like a child rifling through a jewellery box.
Mesmerising main dishes
From here we worked our way through the menu, as each plate landed on the table a gasp followed by an ‘oooh’ and an ‘aaaah’ reminiscent of children at a firework display. Hibachi grilled merguez sausages, the content of which is determined by the season were smokey and spicey, complimented by their bed of cooling yoghurt, the micro herbs and fresh lemon cutting through the richness. Grilled Nabulsi cheese (one of my favourite plates) served by the slab like an elevated saganaki situation, drenched in Persian black lime and honey that pools around it ensuring every bite is layered in flavour and complexity, the cheese covered in a blanket of preserved lemon and fresh oregano to cut through the fatty cheese. A larger plate of red miso and cardamom glazed hispi cabbage with a fiery veduja and butterbean puree, kalamata tapenade and yeasted buckwheat was a party of textures and flavour profiles. The standout dish for me however had to be the seven spiced Jerusalem artichokes with pickled foraged mushrooms, whipped westcombe ricotta, zoug and smoked almonds. A jumble of flavours that could easily get messy but were infact perfectly balanced, piles of deliciousness where every mouthful promises to be different. The zoug so loaded with garlic it smacks you around the face, crispy, spicy artichokes and vinegary mushrooms. A perfect example of east meets west and a demonstration of Ayesha’s championing of local growers and ingredients.
With waistbands straining more and more each second, we were about to throw in the towel when we thought what a waste it would be to leave plates still covered with sauces and goodness and so for thorough mopping a last minute addition of Batata Harra (Lebanese spiced potatoes) were ordered – crispy on the outside soft and fluffy within, we made the right call and with that, the plates returned to the kitchen perfectly polished.
Our one regret was that we had not planned accordingly and so could not make the most of the very exciting dessert menu – dishes such as Tonka and Fig leaf mousseline with hazelnut brittle and Dark chocolate and Persian lime cremeaux called to us but we just couldn’t do it. Instead, we settled on black tahini and black cardamom ice cream with poached cherries, a light finisher to the afternoon and a continuation of bold flavour pairings that really work.
The food we ate was clearly a labour of love – the love could be tasted in every dish. Personality, warmth and emotion as tangible as the ingredients themselves.
Let’s hear it for the chef
Sitting opposite the pass and with full view of the kitchen, it became instantly apparent that Ayesha’s likability transcends the TV screen we had become accustomed to seeing her on. Steering her ship from behind the pass, she can be felt and heard throughout the restaurant, leading her brigade to deliver plate after plate of delectable food with a kindness and encouragement that made we want to jump up and get involved with them. I felt as if (and I mean this with love and respect) I was in the presence of a chef, a matriarch, a land lady and a captain – all booming voice, bountiful personality and bold as brass mannerisms.
The beauty of this establishment harks back to a core belief of mine, yes the bells and whistles of fine dining eateries and fancy pants restaurants are fun and impressive with all their slick lines and brushed steel but what it comes down to is the flavours on the plate and the passion of the chef. Food is about bringing people together, sharing history and culture, educating and inspiring people and Queen of Cups does this in spades.
Nestled in the Hollywood hills (no, not those ones) sits The Culloden Estate and Spa. A former Bishops palace and now a luxury five star hotel with far reaching views of the County Antrim coastline, manicured gardens and woodlands and enough antiques to shake a stick at – this was exactly what the doctor ordered for some serious R&R and we couldn’t wait to feel like queens for the weekend.
As we touched down in Belfast the rain lashed and the skies darkened. In the brief walk from departures to taxi rank we were sodden, suitcases now resembling sponges, hemlines of jeans fully saturated. Undeterred we laughed, plans of ambling around the coastline in early winter sun were soon replaced with visions of log fires and glasses of red wine and this suddenly felt all the more enticing. If we were going to do Northern Ireland, we were going to do it properly – chowder and chunky knits all round.
Location, location, location
As our taxi made its way up the winding drive, through the gates of the hotel and pulled up alongside the revolving front door, the backdrop of Belfast Lough bleeding into the moody grey skies, our jaws dropped. We knew we were in for a treat, further cemented by our taxi driver cooing “ooooh, fancy” when we told him our destination, we didn’t know we were in for this much of a treat. Towering spires drawing our bulging eyes upwards, following the pitched roof line down to the manicured gardens which at our time of visit were hosting a sculpture exhibition, further adding to the drama. Beyond this, the warm glow of the on site pub, The Cultra Inn, shining like a welcoming beacon and behind that, the faint outline of Antrim coastline and its rolling hills promising breathtaking views as soon as the clouds cleared. Ushered out of the rain by the impeccable concierge team, we were instantly enveloped in warmth radiating from the log fires and staff alike.
The Culloden is a short drive from both Belfast City airport (ten minutes) and Belfast International (forty minutes) and a mere fifteen minute drive from Belfast city centre. For non drivers, taxis are cheap and easy to get or guests can opt to amble through the estate gardens to the nearby train station – fear not, it’s close proximity has no negative impact on the hotel itself – from here they can take the very scenic fifteen minute train ride along the coast right into the centre of town. Or do as we did, walk half the way along the dramatic shore armed with a Baileys laced hot chocolate, making sure you take in the impressive houses and quaint fisherman cottages along the way and jump on the train when the Irish wind gets a little too much. The location and accessibility of the hotel makes it a fantastic option for city breakers and weekend awayers, however, you will be hard pressed to find the want to leave the hotel with everything it has on offer.
Having checked into our room and performed the appropriate checks : starfished on the bed to ensure we could both share comfortably – check. Gasped and squealed at the views the floor to ceiling windows offered – check and gobbled the chocolates left for us – check. We de-robed from our sodden clothes, re-robed with our complimentary soft, fluffy gowns and headed down to the spa. It’s always a bit of a ‘hold your breath’ moment when your plus one has worked in the spa industry for years but with an offering like this there was no need. If the hotel started its life as a palace, the spa is the jewel in its crown. As we entered through a hallway lined with geodes and crystals, the air heavy with the heavenly spa smell – not a whiff of chlorine – a wave of calm and serenity washed over us. The unavoidable flusters of early morning flights and damp commutes washed away instantly. Our shoulders dropped, our chests opened, this is exactly what was needed. A huge octagonal pool swathed in natural light from the glass vaulted ceiling called to us, its warm waters desperate to soothe away any tension. Next to it a long jacuzzi with floor to ceiling windows looking over the hills. A sauna with the same square footage as a family home meaning no uncomfortable knee bumps with other spa dwellers. Loungers dotted around in such a way that never felt crowded.
The spa treatments boast a fusion of advanced techniques with ancient therapies, menus include ‘inner strength and resilience massage’ and ‘solar experiences’ all of which are aimed with one main focus – to leave you revitalised and restored. We both opted for the inner strength massage, the promise of yogic stretches combined with resilience boosting massage techniques was an offer we couldn’t turn down. We walked into our respective treatment rooms and entered another plane, ninety minutes later and politely brought back down to earth via the relaxation suite, we looked at each other and with nothing more than a smile and a grunt, knowing we had both had the same otherworldly experience. We sipped our herbal tea in smug silence as we returned back to reality.
That evening we ummed and ahed with the idea of heading into the city center for dinner and drinks but with the rain lashing, the massage induced coma only just subsiding we opted to get snug and head down to The Cultra Inn, a pub less than a five minute walk from our room – winner winner chicken dinner. Well, steak dinner for me.
The traditional pub, all wooden beams and vaulted ceilings, champions local seasonal produce. Relaxed and cosy, the lick of the fire reaching into every corner, this was the perfect end to the day. A full bodied bottle of red, a steaming bowl of Irish chowder followed by a locally sourced sirloin steak with all the trimmings – yes please. A moment of transparency if I may, this pub is not fine dining, nor should it be. Would I say it is up there with the best meals of 2023? No. Would I say, it was exactly what was needed on a cold, gloomy night? Absolutely. Full and content we mosied back to our room, bottle of unfinished red in hand. Climbing into our giant cloud bed – an actual term the hotel has coined and uses with pride, armed with chocolate cake (swiped from earlier) and a glass of red wine – this is how you do a girls weekend.
Breakfast of champions
The following morning, well rested, muscles still soft as butter from the previous day’s relaxation, we headed down for breakfast. Served in the main dining room, all white table cloths and china tea pots, I suddenly thought perhaps my baggy jeans and complimentary slippers were not the correct attire. I was quickly put at ease because the thing The Culloden does so well is blur the lines of what is very clearly a historic palace and all the fixings that go with such a place with buckets of irish charm and an air of laid backness. Yes the wait staff and concierge are suited and booted but they are also ready and waiting to chat the breeze and crack a joke with the guests as if they are lifelong friends, instantly removing any feeling of austerity.
The breakfast was bountiful, silver cloches itching to be lifted and reveal their treasures – all the components of a full Irish (and English) breakfast, plus touches such as porridge laced with local whiskey and an a la carte offering for those who prefer smashed avocado to white pudding.
Things to do
Fuelled on a very hearty breakfast we were ready to brace the elements and explore the surroundings. A quick turn through the gardens and on to the coastal path where we allowed ourselves to imagine we were on our way to the Iron Islands (for any Game of Thrones fans, this hotel is the perfect base to explore the Northern Island filming locations and the concierge team can help you plan the best excursion). A short train ride and we were at the Titanic Museum, a must for everyone and then on to an exploration of the city itself.
Returning to the hotel it was time for the rest portion of our R&R weekend and we couldn’t have asked for a better setting. Deciding to head to the drawing room where big sumptuous sofas called our names and a fire roared, we both curled up with our respective books armed with tea and biscuits. Looking up every so often at the big grey sky, listening to the rain pound down until eventually it was time to pull ourselves from our cocoons and get ready for what can only be described as one of the best meals of the year. But not before a long, hot bubble bath.
Vespers is the hotel’s main restaurant – a fine dining affair, serving modern Irish cuisine in the format of a tasting menu. Perhaps unfairly of me, I didn’t have the highest expectations – I have been burnt in the past by hotel restaurants. Chefs stifled by owners scared to push boundaries for fear of losing more traditional hotel guests. Having eaten in the pub the previous evening, I wondered if the offering here would be similar, good but not great. How wrong I was. Perfect plate after perfect plate expertly paired with exciting and interesting wines, all explained in depth by the wonderful sommelier.
We started with homemade bread and butter and an amuse bouche of chicken liver parfait and cherry cannelloni with candied oats – my bouche was well and truly amused and if this was the precursor of things to come, I was ready and waiting with baited breath.
Courses followed of duck ham paired with fruity condiments such as cherry puree and pickled pomegranate. Expertly paired so that the acidity and freshness of the fruit cut through the rich game. The most perfect scallops I think I have ever eaten, caremlised on top, pillow soft in the centre, doused in a bisque foam, sitting on a bed of sweetcorn puree. Welcomed texture introduced onto the plate through the charred corn kernels and roe biscuit. Local venison loin cooked to perfection, served with burnt chicory and a chocolate jus. I don’t even like chicory. I would go as far to say it is my most loathed of all the leaves. This iteration however, I gobbled up like some sort of feral beast, using it to scoop and swipe any remnants of the beetroot ketchup until my plate was clean. A plate of local cheese and oatcakes presented so elegantly it seemed a shame to eat it but eat it I did before being presented with a dessert that could have held its own with the works of art residing in the sculpture garden. A perfectly formed ‘Granny Smith apple’, as my spoon cut through the dazzling green glaze to reveal the lightest apple and vanilla mousse – it was heaven.
Concerned if we put another morsel of food in our bodies we may explode, we began to gather ourselves to leave the restaurant when our wonderful server shrieked “you can’t leave yet, you have petit fours and Irish coffee”. We looked at each other, fear washing over our faces but being of the firm opinion if a job needs doing, it needs doing properly we retired to the bar, briskly followed by a tray of homemade chocolates and an Irish coffee that I am sure was more whiskey than caffeine but who am I to tell the Irish how to make their coffee?
The final goodbye
The next morning, with slightly hazier heads than the day previous, we pulled ourselves out of bed, sad that it was time to go but content with a weekend of sheer joy and nourishment. We packed our bags and pulled back the curtains just in time to see the clouds part and the sun beam through, casting its fan of rays across the water. And with that, we thought it would be rude to leave such a gorgeous setting just at this moment and so with our last hour to spare we donned our robes, ordered pancakes to the room and affirmed that a girls weekend is the best kind of weekend. Especially one spent at The Culloden Estate and Spa.
Suites at Culloden Estate & Spa (https://www.cullodenestateandspa.com// 028 9042 1066) start from £650 per night and Garden Rooms from £350 per night, including breakfast.
When most people think of Mauritius the first things that come to mind are turquoise waters and white sand beaches, the second is the price tag – Veranda Grand Baie is offering a more cost effective option removing Mauritius off the bucket list and on to the doable list.
Veranda Grand Baie – a background story.
Mauritius is an island synonymous with honeymooners (where you don’t leave your room) and fly & floppers (where you don’t leave your lounger) but Veranda Grand Baie is changing the way things are done, allowing you to visit the island on a budget (sort of) and actively encouraging guests to explore more than the infinity pool to gain an understanding of what really makes the island tick.
Veranda Grand Baie’s slogan of “Feel Mauritius, Feel Mauritian” coupled with the MO of an ‘ethos of authenticity’ whets the appetite of what is in store. Sega shows, Creole lessons, rum tastings, cooking lessons and snack shacks offering local cuisine are all included in the price of the stay to ensure guests truly immerse themselves in the local culture. There is no pretense, the authenticity is felt in spades from the passion of the staff to the detail of the interiors.
The hotel popped onto the Mauritian shoreline forty years ago as one of the first boutique hotel offerings on the island. In a landscape that was being heavily peppered with resorts and large scale hotels, this small and intimate affair has been doing things differently since its conception.
A design led hotel putting the chic in Creole Chic.
This year the hotel has seen a major refurbishment but ensuring the heart and soul of the establishment is not lost as it proudly labels itself as ‘Creole Chic’. It wasn’t until a food tour around Grand Baie itself that the hotel came into its own. As we wound down residential streets and peered through gateways to the houses behind I could see the inspiration behind the design of the hotel. White washed homes, wrap around porches – or should I say Verandas – corrugated tin roofs, shutters painted bright blue. Trees heaving with tropical flowers hanging low over pavements. Palms and fronds lining pathways and well weathered white patio furniture sitting under fruit trees. Every house I saw, no matter how humble, had an energy about it that welcomed you inwards. A feeling of warmth and comfort which I was soon to learn is the Mauritian way. On returning to the hotel from the tour, I saw it in a completely different light – it had never not been a stunning accomodation but now the Creole pride was palpable. The Veranda Grand Baie shines a light on a culture and a history somewhat unknown, it wears it’s roots as a badge of honour and it ensures that everyone that stays there experiences a little bit of Creole magic.
Following an exploration of the town of Grande Baie town – a mere ten minute stroll away – we ambled down the shoreline back to our beach front hotel, our group formed a plan of a quick shower and freshen up before meeting back for dinner. However, on reaching the property all plans went out the window as it was impossible not to be enveloped into the big hug that the hotel bar exuded – the tinkle of cocktail shakers dancing on the evening breeze as sundowners were lovingly prepared. The warm glow of ambient lighting pooling onto the veranda – not too stark as to detract from the out of this world sunset that was about to take center stage but just enough to ease the transition of day to dusk. Low soft seats dotted under palm trees, perfectly positioned to take in the lapping waves and aching to be filled with sun kissed bottoms. If this is what it is like to feel Mauritian – sign me up.
The Veranda Grande Baie hotel – in focus.
The hotel houses 95 rooms, all with nods to the surrounding island through design features such as antique furniture from the area and specially curated wallpapers depicting island vistas. In addition to this is an infinity pool, small private beach, two restaurants and a kids area. What the hotel does so well is provide discoverable corners such as a library and games room, cozy seating areas and enclosed bars, further cementing the ‘Creole Chic’ way of life – warm, welcoming, wonderful. A calculated decision has been made not to offer ‘too much’ to guests in a bid to get them to explore the island be that through the kayaks and paddle boards provided free of charge or local excursions such as the aforementioned food tour, katamaran experience and local botanical gardens to name but a few, all of which can be arranged by the hotel. It is truly refreshing to stay somewhere that actively encourages guests to get out and see what makes a place so special rather than just provide a plethora of options that could be plonked anywhere in the world although, should you be in camp ‘fly and flop’ – no judgment – you would be hard pressed to find a more beautiful infinity pool backdrop and the house special Pina Colada could be argued as reason enough to anchor yourself to a sun lounger.
The redesign of the hotel is a thing of beauty. Natural colour palettes complimented by pops of bright colours be it from the bright blue shutters, the turquoise water surrounding the property or the Birds of Paradise flower arrangements that adorn every console and table create a relaxed yet sophisticated atmosphere. The design team behind the refurb have done what so many strive (and fail) to do – created a perfect balance of barefoot living coupled with oodles of sophistication. White linen sofas and dark wood club chairs sit beneath palm fronds, beamed ceilings and wicker chandeliers. Fresh grass pathways and sandy flowerbeds bleed into natural stone floorings and rattan rugs. The two worlds of outdoor and indoor don’t exist here, rather they blend together to create this unique experience further cemented by stunning design led features such as cottages with outdoor showers and floor to ceiling windows.
When it is time to drag yourself away from your outdoor shower (I don’t think I have ever been so clean in my life) and discover what the island has to offer, guests are spoilt for choice. The town of Grande Baie is a short walk away and offers the opportunity to shop and eat to your heart’s content – from beachside street food shacks to more formal sit down restaurants, all serving up local delicacies such as fish gratin and fresh Marlin smoked over local wood. The food scene in Mauritius is a melting pot, with influences of Indian, Chinese, African and European cultures all playing a huge part, that coupled with the bounty of the Indian ocean means that menus are unusual and exciting. Not only has the identity of the food offering been shaped by the multitude of visitors and inhabitants of the island but also the enslaved as our food guide explained that those enslaved were given the most basic of crops to grow but still managed to create something wonderful such as palm hearts cured in citrus and then soaked in milk, this in turn trickled up into the masters kitchen and became a popular dish that still resides on most menus today. The history behind the plates here is truly fascinating and the best way to learn, see and most importantly taste it all is through ‘Taste Buddies food tours’ which can be organised through the hotel’s concierge.
A trip to Mauritius wouldn’t be complete without a fill of Mauritian rum. Daily tastings are on offer at the hotel but in my humble opinion there is only one way to drink rum on a tropical island and that is at sea. Luckily for me, a Catamaran tour to neighbouring Gabriel Island made this dream a reality. Guests are welcomed aboard by a jovial crew and a captain with a penchant for Barry White – amazing how his crooning voice seems to dissipate any notion of sea sickness – as the Catamaran sets sail and bounces over white capped waves, Mauritius disappears into the distance and the big blue swells in front. After an hour or so we arrive at a picture perfect beach. A sunbathe for me and a snorkel for my more active friends resulted in a) a fantastic tan pour moi and b) a sighting of a barracuda and a multitude of tropical fish for them. Once sun’d and sea’d we were welcomed back aboard for a lunch of freshly barbecued meat with lashings of homemade hot sauce and even more lashings of rum punch. It was at this point I took it upon myself to orchestrate a rum fueled photo shoot on the hull of the boat, the aim was the Duran Duran Rio music video, the reality more of a swaying Jack Sparrow aesthetic. Be warned, the rum punch punches! Headache aside it was a great way to see more of what makes Mauritius so special. We were even treated to a sighting of humpback whales on our sail home.
Sated on rum and sun, it only seemed right to have our last evening dining on fresh fish in the beach side restaurant, under the stars, listening to the waves lap beneath the beat of traditional Mauritian music and so we did just that.
The following morning as I had one final outdoor shower under the hot Mauritian sun I asked myself if the hotel had hit their brief – “am I leaving with an understanding of what it is to truly feel Mauritian?”. My sunkissed skin, slightly rounded belly, heart full to burst and a slightly sore head all told me, yes, absolutely I did.
Prices from £240/€276 per night, in a Comfort Garden room with breakfast and dinner included. Price based on two adults.
If you choose to eat outside of the hotel, there are plenty of wallet friendly options within Grand Baie town and the concierge team will happily advise you on where to head.
Direct flights from London with Air Mauritius start from £650 return
Activities within the hotel such as rum tasting, cooking lessons and creole classes are FOC.
Food writer and resident House of Coco chef visits Bossa, London’s hottest new restaurant and takes a Brazilian flavoured trip down memory lane.
My one and only experience of Brazil is that of a second gap year – one taken after university because I really didn’t want to get a proper job (still don’t). It was a magical place, partying in the streets of Lapa, recovering on the beaches of Isla Grande, wandering the shoreline of Rio and discovering the depths of the Pantanal. My memories are plentiful and those that revolve around food, some of my favourite. A staple of rice & beans doused in Farofa and lashings of chilli sauce being my most beloved. The infamous churrasco kick starting my obsession with fire cooking and the out of this world sushi as plentiful as the Cachaca to cater for the huge Japanese community – the largest outside of Japan. I went there with no expectations and left obsessed with rich flavours and dishes that were packed with history as well as deliciousness.
Fast forward a few years and though I am still to make it back, I enjoy voyeuring from a far at the bustling food scene, pawing over the works of Alex Atala and circling each restaurant that appears on the top 50 list – I lust from afar.
When the invite landed in my inbox to visit Bossa, a refined modern reimagination of Brazilian food, I jumped at the chance. Since being on UK soil and lusting after the flavours of Brazil, I had dabbled with some restaurants that claimed to transport me back to that place. Sure, the novelty of seeing a sword of Picanha steaks in the UK was fun but it never quite hit the spot. Was this my chance to sample plates of real Brazilian flavours, fruits plucked from the Amazon, wines still to be discovered by the masses hailing from the southern part of the country, interpretations of pulses and grains not often seen in our dark and dismal land?
Setting the scene – elegant, serene, chic.
Heaving open the heavy wooden door, embossed with brass lettering proudly stating the name Bossa, a Brazilian flag fluttering from flagpole high above. I was greeted by an elegant, chic space, all clean lines and polished finishes where the staff are as perfectly placed as the interiors.
An open kitchen allows diners to watch the brigade work, each chef dedicated to their station, prepping garnish, stirring sauces, seasoning protein with precision and flair. Cleverly positioned tables and countertop dining allowing the spectacle of the kitchen to be enjoyed by restaurant goers as if watching a perfectly executed dance.
Let’s talk drinks – Mojitos, Mezscladinha and a very nice Brazilian Chardonnay.
Our meal started with cocktails – a Bossa Mojito (because you can always tell the skill of a mixologist via their Mojito) and a Mezscladinha, a smokey, more grown up version of the Brazilian classic that had left me recovering on those aforementioned beaches many moons ago – the bar (no pun intended) was high, if the kitchen was doing things as spectacularly as the bar, we were in for a treat. Delivered with a flourish from the mixologist himself, an explanation of the flavour profiles within the drinks and a brief chat on his favourite tipple. Personal touches like this removed any potential stuffiness and formality that can so often be found in restaurants of this area.
In a seamless handover, the mixologist paved the way for our maitre’d. As informative as she is warm, her passion and enthusiasm for the Brazilian wines on offer was palpable. Seeing that both my dining partner and I were fond of a grape juice or two and especially keen on varieties we hadn’t tried before, a trio of bottles were placed on the table to sample including a Brazilian Chardonnay – you heard. Apprehensive at first, I have had far too many buttery, oaky Chard’s thrust upon me in my time. However, this iteration was crisp and full of zest – I assume skipping it’s second fermentation or keeping it to the absolute minimum to ensure low levels of lactic acid and in turn keeping things light as opposed to the thicker Californian chardonnay’s we know and apparently for some, love.
Starting strong – Brazilian inspired starters to set the pace of the meal.
On to the food portion of the piece. We began with a starter of a tapioca, raw cashew nut cream and wild mushrooms. Having seen it described this way on the menu, I was expecting the tapioca served in ‘grain’ format, most likely with the mushrooms running through and a drizzle of the aforementioned cream. However, I was presented with a savoury ‘pancake’ made from the tapioca pearls, swiped with lashings of the cashew nut cream and showered with sauteed wild mushrooms. I am still unsure if you are meant to pick it up like a taco or use the elegant cutlery placed next to you (probably the latter) but taco method I went for and it was sensational. The pancake giving the perfect texture and bite to the topping. This is how to cater for your vegan diners in exciting and innovative ways – anyone who reads my work regularly knows I’m a meat protein led kind of girl but this dish left me perfectly satisfied and allowed my inner carnivore to remain dormant. We also shared sweet potatoes, Coppa, Brazil nut cream, turnip greens – a dish that doesn’t hide behind ‘cheffy’ techniques but rather showcases good ingredients and proven flavour combinations. There is something bold about a chef that chooses to do this, when the plate landed on the table it looked simple, perhaps too simple but on eating, it quickly became apparent that Chef Nilson Chaves knows exactly what he is doing and his confidence exudes on the plate.
The main event – sensational seabass and a steak I can’t stop thinking about.
For mains – Sea Bass, Delica Pumpkin cream, Okra Vinaigrette and finally allowing that carnivore to come out to play, Grilled Bavette, Beans, Fried Rice, dry banana farofa. As soon as my eyes landed on farofa I was happy.
The sea bass was excellent – the flesh delicately flaking with each touch, the skin crispy and burnished as it should be. The okra prepped to perfection – not a slimy globule in sight – come on, we’re all terrified of it – but instead, holding a firm bite to contrast to the soft flesh of the fish. Both adorning the most heavenly pumpkin cream, thick, unctuous, warming – a marriage of Brazilian flavour with a much-needed dose of autumnal comfort – a very clever dish.
And on to the steak – I can wax lyrical about tapioca and pumpkins but we all know the real reason I’m here. Pink bavette sliced thin, doused with a heady, punchy chimichurri (accompanied by an Opinel steak knife – lovely touch), served with three side dishes of fried rice, beans and and THAT farofa. I was instantly transported back to those restaurants in Brazil where I would take my plate of beans and shovel the dried farofa on top of them, albeit this was a much classier affair. I am yet to try and recreate the banana farofa at home but it is on the list – the sweetness of the fruit sitting along side the salty, toasted cassava flour, hits of chilli popping with every bite. Sprinkling it on the soft red meat like you would a pangrattato on soft pasta – it is sheer heaven and I could have eaten it by the bucket.
For dessert, egg and coconut custard. For me, there wasn’t enough coconut flavour in this dish – I wanted to be slapped around the face with it, feel like I was drowning in a Pina Colada vibe to end my tropical luncheon, however, the flavours were subtle and the texture interesting. We also sampled a Cupuacu cheesecake – a lovely opportunity to try a native ingredient to Brazil (the national fruit of Brazil if we are getting into it) and a fruit I saw so often when I was there but never really learnt much about it. It’s a chocolatey fruit if you were wondering, that can be made into butter or powder similar to its cacao relative but minus the alkaloids. Both dishes offered a light finish to the meal and I loved that they both championed the produce of Brazil in spades.
As the towel (napkin) was thrown in and we began to brace ourselves for the stark reality of the outside world and leave this heavenly, calm, serene oasis, a shot of house made jalapeno infused tequila was placed in front of us to warm us on our way out. Now I have dabbled in the dark arts of chill infused tequila, but this was something else. A sippable tipple, that builds heat as it trickles down your throat until you get to the point of ‘no way, I absolutely cannot drink that’ but then in a mere moment, you are reaching for more. It is that delicious. We were told the secret is in vacuum packing and fermenting – I would give it a go, but I love my liver too much. And so, 45ml later, I was back where it all began – tipsy, a fire in my throat, sated from fantastic food and in love with the produce of Brazil. Now I just need to find a beach to recover on.
Entering the luxurious lobby of the Grand Hotel Brioni – all marble finishes, sumptuous seating areas laden with curated books and artwork and a brigade of perfectly presented staff ready to welcome – the tone of your stay is set – elegant, refined and luxurious minus any pretension or stuffiness. As check in is completed and luggage ushered to rooms, I found it hard to focus on the welcome speech as eyes on stalks kept drifting to the expanse of the sapphire blue Adriatic that lay just beyond…
There are two types of people in this world – those that are desperate to get to their hotel room, unpack, explore the nooks and crannies of what the room has to offer, a jump on a bed here, a flick of the coffee machine there. And there are those that grab their key, throw their hand luggage on the bed, grab the swimwear that was packed in said hand luggage for easy access and run to the pool / sea as soon as possible. I am the latter. Hurrying down to the terrace that I had spent so long pawing over via instagram posts, nothing quite prepared me for the sheer majesty of the vista bestowed upon me. An infinity pool that tumbles into the clearest, blue water, cabanas and loungers sitting atop expertly carved rocks in a way that makes them look as if they are part of the natural landscape and a breathtaking view of the neighbouring Brijuni islands peppered the horizon. The location of this hotel is pure drama – as you would expect for a place that once hosted the Hollywood elite.
Taking in the expanse of water and craggy coastline, I could feel any stresses in both my body and mind ebb away – a feeling that would continue to establish throughout my stay thanks to the hotel’s clever design choices. The Grand Hotel Brioni has recently undergone a £30 million renovation. Taking inspiration from the natural surroundings and with a focus on local artists, the design of the hotel far surpasses that of just aesthetics (although it has that in spades) but the cleverly curated colour palette is one that restores the soul. It is hard to imagine that the use of blue throughout the hotel is just a coincidence when the colour is known for its calming effect and benefits on mental health. The way the external natural world melts into the modern, almost brutalist in design hotel through colour is a stroke (no pun intended) of genius. The bright blue Croatian sky disappearing into the azure depths of the Adriatic which gently laps up the contrastingly stark white cliffs. The turquoise infinity pool, perching on top of them, over looked by rooms and restaurants alike. Carpets, furniture and even glassware are drenched in blue tones as if world outside has seeped in, bringing with it a sense of still and serenity. Trickling through to the bedrooms, accents of blue head boards and even the complimentary blue flip flops and Acqua Di Parma toiletries (reason enough to go), it is near impossible to escape the feeling of balance these design choices invoke yet it is done with such subtlety you don’t realise you are tumbling through this dreamlike state until you leave the hotel and are expelled back in to the stark reality.
Drift away…
The hotel offers 227 rooms and suites but due to careful mapping and a plethora of open areas, it nevers feels busy or crowded. Cabanas hidden amongst rocky outcrops and lavender bushes, cosy corners within bars and winding paths carved into the cliffs further cement the feeling of intimacy and exclusivity.
Staying in one of the ‘Collection Rooms’, a balcony was forgone for additional square meterage but with french windows offering a Juliette balcony and views over both the garden and ocean, it didn’t feel like a compromise as the feeling of outdoor living and swathes of natural light streaming in were plentiful. A king size bed that felt like a cloud and came with a pillow menu ensured the deepest of sleeps and a marble laden bathroom complete with rainfall shower sets guests up for the day.
Well thought out touches such as specially designed espresso cups to accompany the Illy coffee machine and the ‘Butler’s Corner’, a room on each floor that provides an alternative to a mini bar, where guests can go and choose their goods and swipe their key card – helping combat wastage whilst furthering enforcing the feeling on individuality and the bespoke.
Hotel eats…
The hotel boasts four restaurants offering a wide variety of food meaning even the most discerning of diners are catered for but all with a key focus on local produce whether that be a specially curated wine list featuring some of Croatia’s finest wines (I didn’t know this was a thing either until I got there and was pleasantly surprised), exceptional olive oil (might I dare to say, better than Greek) or fish landed from nearby waters.
The Brioni Forum (taking its name from the Forum Square in Pula) is the epicenter of the hotel’s eateries, offering breakfast, lunch and dinner with a buffet style format and a whopping 280 covers at any one time. Given the reputation of a Radisson Collection property, I was expecting slightly higher things but then reminded myself, “this is a buffet for 280 people and I am yet to go to a hotel that does it well”. The choice is extensive but it all lacked the ‘wow’ factor and for a hotel that boasts the tagline ‘Welcome to the Exceptional’, everything needs to be well… exceptional.
Sophia is the fancy pants eatery where both hotel guests and non residents don their finest and flock. Specially imported marble topped tables, parquet flooring, light fixtures that double up as works of art and a terrace offering sunset views set the scene. An open kitchen centered around a Josper oven plays stage to a brigade of chefs all armed with tweezers and sauce spoons, opposite a wall heaving with fine wines and Champagnes – it is opulent, it is heady, it is everything a luxurious grill restaurant should be.
We were treated to chef’s choice which included focaccia, whipped butter and gin & whisky infused salt followed by one of the best steak tartare I’ve ever had, accompanied by heady truffle butter and nasturtium. Of course the main was a variety of cuts of steak to showcase what the restaurant had to offer and included cuts from both America and France and sides of proper chips, potato mille-feuille and a plethora of steak sauces. Call me crazy but I am still to get my head around why a European restaurant would ship in a cow all the way from America when they have perfectly adequate bovine in nearby fields – personal preference of meat locality aside, the steak was cooked well and washed down with the incredible Medea Punta Greca, a Croatian Merlot, I was content. The meal was finished with a creme brulee, minus the brulee – more a dusting where there should have been a crust, but the addition of crumbly butter biscuits to the thick, unctuous custard worked well.
The gastronomic highlight for me was the unassuming Brioni Lungo Mare. A laid back outdoor restaurant overlooking the ocean offering fresh fish and light lunches. The decor giving nods to the European holidays we all know and love, tables painted with designs of lemons and florals and white metal chairs perched under parasols. A light lunch of pan fried sea bass with crisp skin, sitting atop a zingy lemon risotto with freshly shaved asparagus complimented by a light and fresh Croatian rose is what ocean side dining is all about. I greedily watched other plates come out of the kitchen all looking wonderful – giant prawns and heavily doused caesar salads making me wish I had a second (and third stomach).
The main lobby bar is a sophisticated affair and perfect for sundowners and nightcaps alike. The cocktail list is as extensive as it is innovative and definitely worth a work through.
The Bioni Giardini bar sits just behind the infinity pool and offers relaxed plates as well as an incredibly well stocked ice cream bar which is well worth a visit or five.
Spa time…
The self titled and completely just jewel in the Brioni crown is the Gemma Di Brioni spa. Literally – it boasts treatments utilising local gemstones to promote wellness and clarity. Spanning 1300 square meters across two floors and offering indoor pool, cold water whirlpool, three saunas, steam room, rain showers, relaxation lounge complete with salt wall and a menu of revolutionary treatments said to draw on the minerals available from the surrounding natural world including the aforementioned gemstones and algae, it is truly magnificent and somewhere you could happily spend a day. To the point that this sun worshiper was almost praying for grey skies so she could enjoy it without compromising baking time.
Looking beyond the hotel…
A mere twenty minute drive away is Pula town, a must for history buffs and culture vultures. With one of the six best preserved Roman amphitheaters in the world and winding streets to get lost in and watch the world go by, it is the ideal place to spend a day exploring and steeping yourself in ancient history. Restaurants and cafes line streets and market squares, be sure to try local dishes of ox and of course, the seafood on offer. A short drive from here is both the Chiavalon Olive Oil farm which offers tastings and tours and the Medea Winery where you can try a variety of wines paired with delicious local charcuterie and cheeses – an absolute must.
Flights to Pula are less than two hours from UK airports (we flew from Stanstead) making this relatively unsung but glorious destination the perfect spot for a quick get away, although be warned, you will want to spend more than a couple of days absorbing everything it has to offer.
Prices for the Grand Hotel Brioni start from €290 per room per night based on a B&B stay in a Collection Room with Garden View.
On writing this article, I have just returned from working as a private chef on a Greek island for two months where I fed the rich and famous.
A confident chef I am but with these clients there was no room for error or second guessing and so, I entrusted myself to Thermapen. The quickest and most accurate cooking thermometer on the shelves, small enough to carry around with me, versatile enough to check meat temperatures when cooking over fire, testing monster sized fish fresh from the Med and even checking oil and sugar temps. It could even be used to play a game of ‘guess the temperature of the fiery furnace of the kitchen’- whoever got closest to the right answer not having to partake in clean down that night. Using the thermometer to read the environment temperature started as a game but ended up proving incredibly useful when looking for the coolest areas of the kitchen to prove dough – no pun intended. In a traditional kitchen where sugar thermometers and deep fat fryers were not available, this nifty gadget came into its own and allowed me to continue to cook the food I love to cook with precision.
Whilst I will always champion cooking is instinctive and a good chef should always trust their gut, it is comforting to have a tool that measures precision hiding in your apron pocket – especially in times of high pressure and when you are thrown out of your comfort zone. There is no shame in admitting at times you could do with a second opinion or a final check and Thermapen One does just that.
With its exceptional accuracy, speed, and versatility, the Thermapen has become an indispensable tool in my tool kit (or knife roll), it gives consistent and trustworthy results, allowing me to cook with confidence for the most discerning of diners.
The Thermapen stands out for its unmatched accuracy, ensuring precise temperature readings every time. Equipped with a professional-grade thermocouple sensor, it provides an accuracy of ±0.4°C, making it one of the most reliable thermometers on the market.
Time is of the essence in the kitchen – especially an open plan kitchen where your guests are watching your every move, the Thermapen excels in providing rapid temperature readings. Within just three seconds, the thermometer displays an accurate temperature reading, significantly reducing waiting time compared to conventional thermometers. This feature proves invaluable when preparing delicate dishes or when time is limited. The Thermapen’s ability to quickly assess temperatures enabled me to make immediate adjustments, ensuring optimal cooking results and preventing overcooking or undercooking.
Its compact size and foldable probe allow for easy storage and portability, making it an ideal companion for both professional chefs and home cooks. It lives very comfortably in my kitchen drawer when at home, in my knife roll when cooking in other kitchens and in my apron pocket during service. The large, easy-to-read digital display eliminates guesswork, while the backlight ensures readability even in dimly lit environments. Additionally, the auto-rotating display provides flexibility, allowing users to comfortably view temperature readings from various angles.
For me, the Thermapen is not just a kitchen gadget but a key part in cementing my confidence – nothing quite hits like the smugness of pulling something out of the oven when instinct tells you and it probing at the exact temperature you wanted.
Whether you are a home cook or a seasoned chef, no kitchen should be without one.
Find out more and become the most confident of chef’s here
Side Hustle’s newly launched brunch menu is what we were here to sample / devour. Having had a quick peruse of the menu ahead of visiting, my mouth was already watering at the thought of Mexo Benedict- the Side Hustle version served with lashings of siracha spiked hollandaise and guac, not to mention anywhere that serves tacos for brunch gets my vote.
The day I chose to eat at Side Hustle was one of those days in London that starts off blue and then from nowhere turns black. Big, fat, heavy rain drops fall from the sky with such force you wonder if you will end up with bruises. The most well-seasoned Londoner’s become drowned rats, hair sticking to cheeks, anything and everything being used as make shift umbrellas – newspapers, handbags, small children. Puddles the size of lakes appear out of nowhere, drivers appear to adopt a private joke style game of seeing how many people they can drench. Tubes over crowd, buses stop working, basically it’s the apocalypse and every man for themselves.
Falling into Side Hustle, heaving open the heavy wooden door and hearing the screams of the drenched ebb away as it slowly closed behind me, I felt as if I had entered another world. Calm, serene, heavy with the scent of opulence, the host team perfectly coiffed and manicured, ready to welcome you into the dark panelled room complete with countertop seating and booths plus the option for diners to snack at the incredibly atmospheric bar littered with potions and blends destined for the signature cocktails on offer and curated with such flair that it has earned the bar a spot on the 50 Best list. The vibe was luxe, as a NoMad off shoot should be. Dark wood panelling, earthy deep greens and brass accents cutting through the moody aesthetic are balanced by warm lighting with subtle nods of Latin America bleeding into the décor – a whole shelf of curated tequilas, large skulls reminiscent of those synonymous with Day of the Dead that act as vessels for the house tequila laced Pina Coladas sit amongst huge vase style urns used to house the self titled ‘cocktail explosions’ that feed 6 and come with a warning.
It is one of those spaces that on entering you feel safe and at ease, content in the knowledge you will be taken care of, the booth seats are ready and waiting to receive you and the blinds offer the perfect balance of privacy from the outside world but just the right amount of give to people watch… or watch people drown, depending on the weather.
And so, settled and safe from the biblical monsoon outside we began our meal.
Drinks first and on a mission to remind myself it was actually July despite the madness taking place outside, I ordered the aforementioned Pina Colada. At this stage in the game I was unaware it came in a skull larger than mine, crowned with wedges of the golden fruit and her green stalk. She was giving Carmen Miranda albeit, a little darker. The drink itself was delicious, a Pina Colada stan, I was nervous for a tequila based rendition(that and it has been known that tequila can make me a little lary but in the name of good journalism I took the risk), this was the perfect balance of coconut and pineapple, not too rich nor too sweet.
Side Hustle offers both small and large plates that can be taken as starters and mains of ordered on mass to share amongst the table. First to arrive was the Mexican staple of some form of chip and dip (although in Mexico they are usually on the house). With three salsas on offer, we settled on the Pipian, a blend of pipitas, red pepper and chili arbol – an expertly seasoned offering balancing chilli heat and earthy seeds. It was one of those dishes where you felt the nutrition of the salsa outweighed the fried tostadas provided to scoop with.
We also shared Croquetas de Esquites and yellowfin tuna tostadas served with Aguachile. It never ceases to amaze me to see the different way corn is played with in Mexican kitchens and so I was excited to see the Side Hustle rendition – sweet kernels, running through crème fraiche, spiked with epazote, rolled and deep fried.
The tuna was fresh and light, a wonderful opener to the mains heading our way.
In preparation of the tacos and burrito, an apothecary style bottle of homemade hot sauce was delivered to the table – a nice touch and a welcome edition to our main plates. It was well made, you can taste the ingredients and feel the heat start to build rather than the instant fire that many hot sauces tend to deliver. Onto the main event – a plate of lamb birria tacos complete with tomato and radish salad and a breakfast burrito for my dining partner, served with a well made mole for max dunking.
The tacos were good, and yes I know I said my mouth was watering at Eggs Benny but what can I say, tacos are my love language and who am I to stand in the way of love.The lamb was melt in the mouth, falling apart and topped with wafer thin, perfectly pickled discs of radish, a welcome hit of acid to cut through the fat. The obligatory consommé served on the side, rich and fatty and delivered the perfect drip on every bite of the taco. The tortillas were perfectly cooked, pliable and full of flavour and when loaded with the rich lamb, the coriander heavy tomato salad and a few drips of hot sauce made for a winning combination.
The burrito was heavy and substantial – thank goodness, there is nothing sadder than an underfilled burrito. The mole complex and full of layers of flavour.
We completed our meal with another round of cocktails, this time I went for the ‘Pardon Plea’, a blend of rum, tequila, green apple, coconut and palo santo – which was eye wateringly punchy which in turn made it incredibly refreshing. My partner who doesn’t drink was equally well looked after as the bar has a fantastic mocktail menu that you can tell are as expertly thought out as the alcoholic menu. His first El Diablito, alight and refreshing blend of ginger, hibiscus and lime. His second incredibly unusual pandan situation which you could have easily mistaken for a sour – truly exceptional drinks.
And so, as much as we wanted to squeeze in a desert of Mango Prepardo or an ice cream sandwich, we were just too stuffed and with that we braced ourself for the carnage of the outside world, lucky for us, our Mexican morning had trickled out of the restaurant and into the streets of London and we were back to blue skies.
