Here at House of Coco we like getting off the beaten tourist path and exploring areas that we could dream of living in one day - Kuzguncuk is our latest neighbourhood obsession in Üsküdar, Istanbul along the Anatolian shore of the Bosphorus. This adorable area is holding off the ever approaching gentrification and offers a look into Istbanul’s past and multicultural present. Let’s dive in!

Start your exploring of this neighbourhood by perusing the books on offer at the charming Nail Kitabevi, with a coffee in hand. Situated on İcadiye Street in a 19thC rococo and baroque building, this is the perfect base to get your bearings. We recommend the reading nook in the bay window on the second floor - run, don’t walk!

For a hearty breakfast, before you start exploring, do as the locals do and pull up a chair at this neighbourhood favourite near the coast. Order a fresh juice, a turkish tea and Sahanda Yumurta (turkish fried eggs) and start plotting your adventure.

Savour a cinnamon hot chocolate at Chocolatier Aziz Bey

If coffee and turkish tea isn’t your thing, consider a visit to the charming Chocolatier Aziz Bey for delicious hot and cold chocolate drinks. You can customise your order with additional flavours - cinnamon is always our go to.

This area is known for its gorgeous mansions along the coastline. Why not take a drink to go and see where your feet take you - look out for the 18thC Pink Mansion. While you are out for a wander, don’t miss a stroll up Nakkastepe hill for authentic cafe culture, rubbing shoulders with the locals.

Kuzguncuk is a traditional neighbourhood, where religions and cultures sit happily side by side and this is evident in the mixture of architecture you’ll see taking a stroll around the area. Take any small street and marvel at the beautiful houses and churches.

Traditional fish lunch at Kuzguncuk Balıkçısı

Along the charming, cobbled Perihan Abla Street you’ll find the colourful Kuzguncuk Balıkçısı the perfect stop off for an alfresco lunch. Popular with the locals and run by a local entrepreneur, we hear that the fish soup and paella are particularly good.

Ask any local where you can’t miss and they’ll whisper Ismet Baba. This famous fish restaurant is on the shore of the Bosphorus lending an atmospheric feel to your dinner. Come hungry and order a glass of raki to sip as the sun goes down. The perfect end to your day in Kuzguncuk.

Hipster Istanbul - what not to miss in Kuzguncuk

 is one of the most fascinating historical landmarks in Istanbul. Commissioned by Emperor Justinian I and built in 532, this underground marvel is an impressive feat of engineering and architecture, built to provide water to the city during times of drought.

The cistern's mystic and eerie atmosphere is what makes it so unique. As you walk down the stairs, the sound of dripping water and the dimly lit environment will captivate you. The 336 massive columns, each one intricately carved and many salvaged from ruined temples, support the roof of the cistern, creating a symmetrical and grand appearance.

The most famous of the columns is the Medusa column, which features two Medusa heads as the base. The reason for their inclusion in the design is unclear, but they add a touch of intrigue to this already enchanting space.

The Basilica Cistern is undoubtedly one of the top attractions not to be missed on your Istanbul trip. It's a testament to the ingenuity and creativity of ancient Byzantine architects and a hauntingly beautiful reminder of Istanbul's rich and complex history.

Basilica Cistern

 is a unique museum located in Istanbul that features over 100 miniature models of Turkey's most famous landmarks, all on a scale of 1/25. From the Blue Mosque to the ancient city of Ephesus, Miniaturk brings together the rich architectural heritage of the civilizations that have left their mark on this ancient land.

But Miniaturk is more than just a museum of miniature models. It's a showcase of Turkey, including the life experiences of nearby geography, with 137 models in total, 60 from Istanbul, 64 from Anatolia, and 13 from Ottoman territory outside of Turkey. The models were selected based on their reputation, and visitors can explore everything from caravanserais and castles to mosques and synagogues.

Children can interact with the exhibits and learn about Turkey's history and culture through a variety of activities, such as playing traditional Turkish games, creating their own miniature models, and watching educational videos. 

And for those looking for even more fun, Miniaturk has a playground and a mini-train ride that takes visitors through the park.

In addition to the miniature models, Miniaturk also has a variety of other amenities, including a restaurant, cafeteria, gift shop, exhibition hall, outdoor show area, and even a mini stadium with the four biggest teams.

So whether you're a family with kids or a history buff, Miniaturk is a must-visit attraction in Istanbul. It's a unique and entertaining way to learn about Turkey's rich history and culture, all while having fun and making lasting memories.


Turkey's Rich History On A Small Scale

Miniaturk

The Blue Mosque, also referred to as the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, is an iconic landmark situated in Istanbul, Turkey. It was constructed in the early 17th century, during the reign of Sultan Ahmed I, and has become one of the most visited tourist attractions in the city due to its remarkable architecture and intricate details.

The interior of the mosque is decorated with more than 20,000 blue ceramic tiles, which have earned it the nickname "The Blue Mosque." These tiles boast traditional Ottoman floral patterns and designs, creating a mesmerizing and captivating effect.

The exterior of the Blue Mosque is equally impressive, with six minarets towering over the surrounding buildings. The domes and semi-domes are decorated with intricate calligraphy and geometric patterns, showcasing its remarkable architecture.

The mosque's courtyard, which is surrounded by arched colonnades, is another highlight, providing a peaceful and serene area for visitors to take a moment to relax and appreciate the mosque's beauty.

It is important to note that the Blue Mosque is still an active mosque, and visitors are required to dress modestly and remove their shoes before entering. It is open to visitors daily, except during prayer times on Fridays.

Get Lost In A Sea Of Blue

The Blue Mosque

 served as the residence and administrative headquarters of the Ottoman sultans for nearly 400 years, from the 15th century until the mid-19th century.

The palace is situated on a promontory overlooking the Golden Horn, the Sea of Marmara, and the Bosphorus. Its grounds cover an area of approximately 700,000 square meters and include a series of courtyards, pavilions, gardens, and buildings.

The palace's architecture is a blend of Ottoman and Byzantine styles, with intricate decorations and details that showcase the wealth and power of the Ottoman Empire. Visitors can explore the palace's various rooms and galleries, which contain a vast collection of treasures, artifacts, and works of art from the Ottoman period.

One of the most impressive sections of the palace is the Harem, which was the private quarters of the sultan and his family. It contains over 400 rooms, including living quarters, reception halls, and baths, and is adorned with beautiful tiles and ornate carvings.

Another highlight of the palace is the Imperial Treasury, which houses a stunning collection of jewels, gold, and other precious objects. The treasury includes famous items such as the Topkapi Dagger and the Spoonmaker's Diamond, as well as beautiful textiles and manuscripts.

Visitors can also enjoy the palace's beautiful gardens, which feature fountains, pavilions, and stunning views of the sea and city.

Topkapi Palace offers a fascinating glimpse into the opulent lifestyle and rich history of the Ottoman Empire and is a must-visit attraction for anyone visiting Istanbul.

Unlocking The Secrets Of Istanbul

Topkapi Palace

Hagia Sophia, also known as Ayasofya, was originally built as a church in the 6th century by Emperor Justinian I and was later converted into a mosque during the Ottoman era. Today, it is a popular tourist attraction that draws visitors from all over the world.

The Hagia Sophia's architecture is a beautiful blend of Christian and Islamic influences, reflecting the rich cultural history of Istanbul. The building features an impressive dome that spans over 100 feet in diameter and reaches a height of 184 feet. The interior is adorned with intricate mosaics, stunning frescoes, and beautiful marble columns, making it a true masterpiece of Byzantine art and architecture.

One of the most famous features of the Hagia Sophia is the intricate mosaic of Christ Pantocrator, which dates back to the 9th century. Other notable mosaics include those depicting the Virgin Mary, Emperor Constantine IX, and Emperor Justinian I. Visitors can also see the Sultan's loge, which was added during the mosque's conversion to Islam.

In 1935, the Turkish government decided to turn the Hagia Sophia into a museum, recognizing its cultural significance and importance. However, in 2020, it was converted back into a mosque. 

Today, visitors can still admire the stunning architecture and learn about the fascinating history of this iconic landmark.

A Cultural Masterpiece That Blends The Best Of Two Worlds

Hagia Sophia

From A Cheap Flight To Long-Term Love: Discover Istanbul With Food And Travel Writer Amira Arasteh

Discover Istanbul, a magical city that has been the centre of empires and cultures for thousands of years.

What started off as a cheap flight off Skyscanner and free accommodation, courtesy of a family friend, turned into a long-term love affair for our foodie writer, Amira Arasteh. Having paid her first visit to Istanbul solo and prior to her work in food or travel journalism, her initial experience of and in the Turkish city was full of adventure, good food and, of course, plenty of photo opportunities. 

Flash forward a press trip visit, as well as another solo jaunt of the city and our girl continues to seek any opportunity to travel back - as well as consistently telling everyone she meets that it’s her favourite city (high praise from a food and travel writer, folks).

From understanding the need to visit both the European and Asian side to exploring as both a novice tourist and a slightly more seasoned veteran, Istanbul is magical each and every time and Amira is here to make sure that if you visit, you have the best opportunity to fall in love with it, too. 

Detailing the best places to eat (would you expect anything less?), making sure you don’t miss out on a single cultural moment, exploring day trips (should you be staying for longer) and sharing one of her favourite ‘happy places’ on the planet, discover Istanbul with Amira.

Istanbul

In the heart of the historic Beşiktaş district is the city’s Shangri-La hotel bringing with it all the brand’s signature style and luxury. With the exchange rate as it is you can enjoy the Shangri-La experience at half the price of London’s so what’s not to love? We hear that the hotel offers the world’s first ‘Baklava Butler’ which has us salivating just at the thought - and that’s before we get to the Afternoon Tea spread, incorporating both Turkish and Asian flavours.

Often finding where to stay and what to do can be a minefield and in a city like Istanbul, with so many great options, it’s hard to choose. We’ve rounded up the best of the best of our current favourites to help with planning your next escape.

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Treasured Moments on the Bosphorus

 Shangri-La Bosphorus

As the antidote to all this luxury, Sub Karakoy makes its way into our top hotel list due to its quirky, industrial look. The perfect location to explore Karakoy’s local businesses, this rugged looking but incredibly comfy option gets you close to the locals in a way the luxury options may not. Start your day exploring through the hotel’s breakfast spread and be sure to ask at the front desk for some personalised recommendations to build your holiday itinerary.

A Michelin listed Hotel in the heart of Istanbul

Sub Karakoy

If it’s luxury that you are after, look no further than the Peninsula Hotel. This opulent, but still charming, option boasts an outdoor swimming pool overlooking the Bosphorus as well as an indoor option and full spa complete with couple’s treatment rooms. The hotel’s rooftop Turk-Asian restaurant Gallada (open from June 2023) looks set to make its mark on the Istanbul dining scene so book your stay to be ahead of the crowd!

Heritage Splendour Along the Bosphorus

Peninsula Hotel

Offering state-of-the-art spacious rooms, the Stay Nisantasi Boulevard which opened in January 2023 has a worthy place at the top of our list. As the first hotel group in Turkey to be awarded a carbon-neutral status, a stay here is a guilt free experience. Bedecked with a modern art collection, there’s plenty to see in the hotel itself. And that’s before we get to the spa - a sanctuary in busy Istanbul offering a traditional Turkish Hammam as well as massages and aromatherapy.

The Stay Nisantasi Boulevard & Spa 

Opened just this month (February 2023) is this gorgeous newcomer, offering 26 modern bedrooms. Here you are in the thick of it at only 400 metres from Basilica Cistern and 500 metres from Column of Constantine, but within its four walls you wouldn’t know the busy city that waits for you outside. The Kate Hotel offers a hammam on site, ideal to unwind after a day exploring the city.

The Kate Hotel Istanbul 

Kate Hotel 

Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul At The Bosphorus

! This 19th-century Ottoman palace has been transformed into a luxurious, contemporary getaway that's fit for royalty.

Perched on the European side of the Bosphorus, the Four Seasons hotel boasts breathtaking views of the waterfront skyline that'll leave you in awe. Whether you're taking a dip in the outdoor pool, indulging in traditional Turkish hammams, or sampling mouthwatering Anatolian delicacies, you'll be pampered in style.

With a total of 170 rooms and 25 suites, every corner of this hotel boasts sophisticated decor that reflects Ottoman architectural designs.

Located in the heart of Istanbul's trendiest and most picturesque neighbourhoods, the Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul At The Bosphorus offers the perfect blend of serene waterside views and downtown convenience. Just a few steps away from the fashionable Nişantaşı shopping street, and the magnificent Dolmabahçe Palace, guests can explore the city's iconic landmarks without traveling far.

Turkey

Timeless Elegance On The Shores Of The Bosphorus

Nestled on the cusp of Beyoğlu, Istanbul's vibrant cultural hub, stands the 

 - an enchanting and storied hotel that has borne witness to a century of history. As a living monument to Istanbul's rich heritage, this architectural masterpiece has withstood the ravages of time, surviving the fall of the Ottoman Empire and two World Wars to emerge as a symbol of cultural resilience.

Crafted by the visionary Levantine architect Alexandre Vallaury in 1892, the Pera Palace Hotel is a breathtaking fusion of neo-classical and oriental architecture. Each of its 115 rooms and suites is named after a famous past guest, such as Ernest Hemingway and Greta Garbo, and is adorned with vintage furnishings and lavish Carrara marble bathrooms.

Alongside its luxurious lodgings, the Pera Palace Hotel has many amenities, such as a spa, a fitness center, an indoor pool, and a restaurant that pays homage to Agatha Christie's"Murder on the Orient Express."


From Hemingway To Atatürk: Discover The Fascinating History Of Pera Palace Hotel

Pera Palace

Immerse yourself in a world of modern luxury and cultural sophistication at 

. This 5-star gem is nestled in the heart of the fashionable Nişantaşı district, renowned for its designer boutiques, luxury fashion brands, and local eateries. Here, you'll be surrounded by the breathtaking Art Deco and Art Nouveau architecture that Istanbul is famous for.

The spacious rooms are a treat to stay in, boasting comfortable furnishings and adorned with original artwork. The discreet balconies offer stunning views of the city, providing the perfect retreat after a day of exploring. And for pet lovers, the hotel is pet-friendly, with special accommodation rates for trained pets.

The St. Regis Istanbul is the ultimate choice for those seeking luxury and sophistication in the heart of Istanbul.


Where Modern Luxury Meets Art Deco Glamor

The St Regis Istanbul

Biting into a sweet, gooey date as I sipped my Turkish tea was the perfect welcome to the Ajwa Sultanahmet Istanbul. It even overtook (just slightly, because of my stomach’s rumbling) the fancy car service that transported me from the airport to the hotel.

The gorgeous Ajwa Sultanahmet Istanbul is exactly that – gorgeous. The stunning architecture is what catches your eye as soon as it is in sight – regardless of the time of the day as either the sun is hitting the walls, making the gold shine strong and the white stone appear to have flecks of pink and blue; or the entire hotel is a glowing building, standing out completely on the corner of the street. The hotel is what I’d imagine a Turkish princess’s first ‘home away from home’ to be. A beautiful grand entrance, stunning and ornate decor – featuring only the best artists’ handiwork – and a private hammam to indulge in a cleansing scrub.

The interiors of the hotel are even more decorative, with the furniture being a mixture of locally-made designs, as well as some from Damascus. The chairs and cabinets feature beautiful Mother of Pearl details and each floor showcases Azerbajani (or Azeri) artwork on the walls. If you take a liking to this kind of design, be sure to visit the nearby shops which double as art galleries – they sell the different pieces of furniture, as well as Persian rugs.

This stunning artwork continues within the Ajwa hotel rooms; my bathroom door is open as I walk in so I am immediately greeted by beautiful blue patterned tiles and rose gold finishing. Mother of Pearl is present in the furniture and that’s probably all I focus on as, afterwards, my attention was very much so diverted to the large bed that was calling my name. There are 48 Deluxe Rooms (of which I was lucky to secure one) but if you’re looking for something slightly more swish, the hotel offers a Presidential Suite and even separate guesthouses if you’re travelling in a group.

Breakfast at Ajwa is an impressive display. You can opt for the buffet which offers an array of treats: eggs, courgette and spinach fritters, Turkish sausages; pides; labneh – the works. Alternatively, you can order a la carte, including the traditional Turkish breakfast spread…which pretty much includes every item on the buffet and more. I’d definitely recommend a sunrise breakfast as the panoramic view from the restaurant is so pretty – you can see a mixture of the Old City and the Marmara Sea.

Lunch and dinner are served on the same top floor, in the Zeferan restauarant and the Azerbajani chef cooks up a feast every meal time. Whether plates full of grilled meats, salads and ‘shakh plov’ (a local rice dish) or Sultan’s stew (lamb with aubergine purée) and yoghurt soup; one thing is for certain – I did not go hungry here.

With the Old City right on your doorstep, you’re minutes away from impressive and historical sights such as the Blue Mosque, the Haiga Sophia and Topkapi Palace. The hotel concierge was only too happy to fix me up with a tour guide – I have been to Istanbul before but you learn so much more about the cultural spots with someone who knows all about them. For example, my guide told me that there are over 21,647 tiles making up the Blue Mosque (so named because of the dark blue titles on the interior design and, over time, the name changed from Dark Blue Tiled Mosque to Blue Mosque). Another interesting fact I was told, was that it took 10,000 people to build the Haiga Sophia over five years – and it took 13,000 kg of gold in expenses. My jaw definitely dropped at this point.

A trip to the famous Grand Bazaar was a hectic but fascinating experience, as I loaded up with spices, ceramics and jewellery. It’s easy to get lost inside – and it’s no wonder as the Grand Bazaar is home to five mosques, two fountains, 67 roads, 40 doors and even a school.

After a busy day of walking the streets of Istanbul, nothing is more appealing than a trip to the hammam I mentioned earlier. The Afiya Spa at the hotel is something everyone should definitely experience. I had received the traditional Turkish treatment before but the hammam room at Ajwa was by far one of the most beautiful I’d seen and well worth a visit. The Turkish Bath treatment takes place in the spa and after a menthol steam room session, I enjoyed a thorough scrubbing. It wasn’t as harsh as I’ve had this treatment before which is fantastic, as you can really relax as you’re getting exfoliated and becoming the cleanest you’ve ever been. Seriously – the cleanest I’ve been in my life.

A magical stay that I would definitely recommend for anyone wanting a boutique hotel experience while being footsteps from the majority of Istanbul’s best gems.

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Biting into a sweet, gooey date as I sipped my Turkish tea was the perfect welcome to the Ajwa Sultanahmet Istanbul. […]

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Haiga Sophia

Biting into a sweet, gooey date as I sipped my Turkish tea was the perfect welcome to the Ajwa Sultanahmet Istanbul. [...]

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Wake Up Here: Ajwa Hotel Sultanahmet, Istanbul

Stay in Istanbul

Shangri-La Bosphorus

Sub Karakoy

Peninsula Hotel

The Stay Nisantasi Boulevard & Spa

Kate Hotel

Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul At The Bosphorus

Pera Palace

The St Regis Istanbul

Food & Drink

Cecconi's Istanbul

Sunset Grill & Bar

Yeni Lokanta

Nobu Istanbul

Nicole

Mikla

Active in Istanbul

Hipster Istanbul - what not to miss in Kuzguncuk

Basilica Cistern

Miniaturk

The Blue Mosque

Topkapi Palace

Hagia Sophia