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We here at House of Coco LOVE to travel. But as many frequent travellers out there might know, sometimes all that travel can take a toll on your health. We have come up with three tips to help you stay healthy on holiday so that you can enjoy yourself to the full without compromising on health.

Stock up on Polyphenol 5 supplements when fruit and veg are hard to come by

Does anyone else find that when they are eating out a lot on holiday that they don’t get their recommended five fruit/veg a day? Even when there is delicious-looking fruit and veg at a market stall, in some countries you need to wash these thoroughly before eating, and this can be tricky if you are on the go!

So that you don’t have to worry about it, Hellenia has launched a handy little supplement called Polyphenol 5. It gives you the equivalent antioxidants of consuming five fruit and veg a day. It is such an easy vitamin like hack that I sometimes use it in everyday life too! But when you are travelling, it is a must.

Available online at hellenia.co.uk/polyphenol-5-225mg-60-capsules.html.

Get a blast of oxygen with Boost Oxygen when the air quality is poor

I adore navigating the streets of Bangkok, New Delhi or Hong Kong. But the air quality can be so poor in big, polluted cities with a really negative impact on our health.

Initially used by athletes, Boost Oxygen’s fans include Madonna, Gwyneth Paltrow and Kate Moss. It is a natural solution to the negative effects of low oxygen levels such as low energy, a lack of concentration and exhaustion. The portable, travel size can comes in aromas such as pink grapefruit, eucalyptus and peppermint and can even help with travel sickness.

Available online at boostoxygen.life.

Keep Skin Glowing with Saint Iris Adriatica Wake-Up Droplets

Getting out in the sun is one of my favourite things about travelling but it can leave the skin parched and sun damaged.

Fab beauty brand, Saint Iris Adriatica, has launched new wake-up droplets to be used on the face and body to soothe inflammation, protect against free radicals, encourage even skin tone and boost skin health. With mountain daisy extract and pomegranate enzymes, it smells as good as it feels on the skin and aids good quality sleep too – vital when recovering from jet lag!

Available online at wolfandbadger.com and siadriatica.com.

Cover photo: Love Exploring

Flora Indica is not your usual curry house or cocktail joint. Indian dishes with a modern twist, luxurious interiors and daring herb-inspired drinks, we sent Rachael Lindsay to give it a go…

Laden down with my rucksack after a weekend of travel, I gingerly ask the serving staff if there is anywhere I can store my bag.

‘Perhaps in the TARDIS?’, the smiling restaurant manager gestures to a full-size blue phone box in the centre of the room.

Flora Indica’s design is inspired by an 1855 catalogue of Indian plants and spices, after which the restaurant is named. A group of Scottish botanists produced the book whilst travelling through India, recording every newly discovered chilli, lime and clove.

Designer, Henry Chebaane has blended steampunk and British Raj elegance for the interiors of this restaurant based in Chelsea, London. Brass piping and Victorian gadgets sit alongside flower motif tin tiles and Tweed upholstering. The TARDIS is an allusion to time travel, back to an era of innovation, discovery and serious excitement about botanicals.

The cocktail menu is devoted to this excitement, and the cocktails here are exquisite. The Bombay Blossom bursts with Earl Grey, rose water, lychee and Rangpur gin and the Chillitini has just the right amount of fire, beautifully matched by notes of citrus and pomegranate.

The waiting staff are as enthusiastic about the dishes as the cocktails and our waitress relishes the opportunity to recommend her personal favourites. She guides us through the menu, pointing out the £44 taste tour of India with its selection of chef-suggested dishes, or the option of choosing our own tapas-style small plates followed by larger curries and sides.

We try to order one small plate each to start and she stops us in our tracks, ensuring that we try dish upon dish of these spiced morsels, from crispy okra fries to soft Yellow Fin Tuna with chilli caviar and cucumber. The winners, in our eyes, are the Jerusalem artichoke Papdi Chaat which is crunchy and layered with creamy yoghurt and the soft mounds of Amritsari Crab with a Tamarind mash and fragrant mayo made Tadka-style, blended with spices roasted in ghee.

The mains on the menu sound a little more familiar with the likes of Chicken Tikka, Paneer Kofta and King Prawn Malaicurry jazzed up with bergamot, baby spinach and monkfish. They arrive with Red Leicester Naan, pink pomegranate raita, pistachio rice and curly kale with turmeric and ginger. We dig in with delight, testing each taste combination together in turn.

We cannot leave without trying dessert. Our waitress recommends the Shahi Brioche and the Kulfi Semi Freddo, India’s answer to ice cream. The Brioche is sweet and chewy, matched perfect with pistachio crumb, saffron cream and grilled pineapple. The Kulfi is a medley; noodles bring the flavour of traditional Indian falooda, a rose water and sweet basil seed pudding, and the chocolate sauce is aromatic with warming cloves.

Each dish is a little experiment in form and flavour and the interiors reflect this sense of exploration. With the impression that we are leaving a South Asian / Victorian universe behind, we head out to the Old Brompton Road, sadly using the door rather than the TARDIS.

Go to Flora Indica at lunch time, to take advantage of the three-course set menu for £18, and if you feel it’s too early for a cocktail (although #TeamCoco know that this is never the case…), try a fragrant tea with a pretty name like Indigo Sky or Chelsea Rose.

Find Indica Rose at 242 Old Brompton Road in London and browse the mouthwatering menu at www.flora-indica.com.

Ditching plastic straws, eating less meat…we all know the obvious ways to tread more kindly on the planet. But if you love travel as much as me and the rest of #Teamcoco do then it is worth considering these three tried and tested products to make your travelling life more sustainable.

An ION8 Travel Mug

Whether travelling to Alaska or Mauritius, this insulated stainless steel travel mug has been a godsend for me. It genuinely keeps the temperature the same for hours, whether you want to keep your hot chocolate hot when trudging through the snow or your lemonade fresh and ice-y on a city tour in summer. It’s nice to carry with a textured grip and carry hook and, perhaps most importantly, it is 100% leak-proof (it honestly is, I carried it round upside down in my bag for hours) making it oh-so-easy to say no to those take-away cups!

For more information, visit leakproof.co.uk.

A Lush Shampoo Bar

I was so sick of carrying leaking plastic bottles of shampoo and conditioner that I gave a solid shampoo bar a go and haven’t looked back since. You just pop them in a tin and they last for at least a month, taking up basically no space in luggage and never leaking. My favourites are the tropical-smelling Jungle flavour and the Seanik, made from Irish moss gel, Japanese nori seaweed and fine sea salt. Seriously leaves you so fresh, so clean and so sustainable (apparently one lorry full of solid shampoo bars holds roughly the same number of washes as fifteen lorries filled with liquid shampoo)!

For more information, visit uk.lush.com.

A Hamamingo Turkish towel

Conventional towels are bulky to pack and microfibre towels are bad for the environment. Welcome in the Turkish towel – also called a Peshtemal, Hammam or Fouta towel. These are just as absorbent as normal towels but they take up barely any room and dry magic-fast. These ones from Hamamingo are 100% Turkish cotton and come in a handy travel bag.They also come in a gorgeous array of colours so make the perfect beach towel, sarong or picnic mat if you want to go multi-use.

For more information, visit hamamingo.com. Cover photo: @hamamingo.

We here at #Teamcoco have quite the penchant for afternoon tea. So when the new ‘Organic Darjeeling First Flush’ from JING was announced as the best Darjeeling First Flush tea for 2019 and a new tea on the Savoy’s afternoon tea menu, Rachael Lindsay had to try it out.

The ‘Organic Darjeeling First Flush’ was one of three rare teas selected to feature on the Afternoon Tea menu served in The Savoy’s Thames Foyer. This tea recently won JING’s inaugural Excellence at Origin competition for Darjeeling First Flush, beating 16 other entries. A panel of experts judged this First Flush from Seeyok Estate to best capture the very essence of the Darjeeling terroir and the craftsmanship vital to First Flush production.

The tea was unsurprisingly absolutely delicious. With honey and floral tones, it was a delicate taste and a tea that I would happily enjoy by itself, as well as a perfect accompaniment to cake, or a light sandwich. Whilst it is a serious treat to go along to the Savoy for an afternoon tea, the joy of ordering this tea straight from JING is that you can recreate the experience in the comfort of your own home.

The Darjeeling region has over 150 years of tea making history and grows a selection of uniquely fragrant teas. The first flush harvest takes place in late March and is the very first plucking of the season’s leaves. The competition winning garden – Seeyok – employs a huge mostly female team. It is fair-trade, organic and dedicated to enhancing the quality of life for the local community, offering health care, sanitation and free education to its workers and their families.

Seeyok Estate Director Guatam Mohan said: “Drinking Darjeeling tea is an experience to be savoured – it captures the essence of Spring in the stunning Himalayas and can’t be rushed. This special tea is geographically protected which means you can’t grow Darjeeling anywhere else in the world and we are excited to be working with JING and for customers to try it.”

For more information or to order the tea, check out jingtea.com.

Apologies to any Marvel comic book fans who landed here to discuss Hydra, the fictional terrorist organisation in Captain America. Here at House of Coco we are more interested in another Hydra, one of the most naturally beautiful islands in Greece. And our recommended boutique base for your stay there: the Phaedra hotel.

Arriving into Hydra on the catamaran is a feast for the eyes. The port is postcard perfect with blue and white fishing boats bobbing next to luxury yachts, traditional tavernas lining the seafront, tiny cobbled alleys rising up to the town, all framed by mountains smattered with green.

Slipping from the bustling waterfront into the backstreets, the pace of life falls back a notch. Bougainvillea blooms on whitewashed houses and the odd local passes slowly, clutching a round of bread from the bakery.

As the now-familiar bougainvillea flowers loom around the corner for the third time, we admit we are lost. As beautiful as Hydra is, these backstreets are a rabbit warren and no street has a name. Following a stray cat in the hope that it will lead us to our destination, we happen upon the Phaedra Hotel and are immediately greeted by Hilda, the friendly owner.

We check into our room which is as Greek as can be. Wrought iron double bed, antique furnishings, shuttered windows and a little library of reading material. The design here is traditional without being chintzy. If you are looking for an authentic haven in the heart of Hydra, this is it.

Dragging myself from the perfect people-watching spot at the window, I head out to explore. For walkers and runners, Hydra is a dream. There are tons of trails both coastal and mountainous, and I opt for a ridiculously gorgeous walk by the sea with plenty of swimming stops in the crystal clear waters to cool off.

We spend the evening under the stars at Hydra’s outdoor cinema and go local with Greek mezze, crispy courgette fritters, tzatziki and chicken gyros for dinner. A special mention to the most divine patisserie in town: Karamela. Honestly the chocolate cookies and banoffee pie here are decadent.

Speaking of food, we take a late breakfast at the Phaedra. Hot coffee and freshly squeezed kiwi juice are served with eggs, local cheese, croissants, feta pies, fresh peaches and chunky cinnamon cookies. To add to the homey feel, everything is served by Hilda, who provides tips for the day ahead and shares her infectious enthusiasm for the island.

She tells us about the best times to visit: at Easter which is seriously celebrated in Hydra, with fireworks and a Harbourside ‘burning of Judas’, for the Miaoulia Festival at the end of June where a naval battle is re-enacted and the town erupts in Greek dancing, and, for those looking for a real escape, come in low season. Many beach bars and restaurants might shut up shop but Hydra in winter is a real slice of Greek life, and unlike the majority of hotels here, the Phaedra stays open year-round.

Crete, Rhodes, Mykonos…on the Greek island hit list, Hydra doesn’t usually get a look in. But for a welcome that feels like home and unrivalled Instagram fodder, we would recommend adding it to your list. And #TeamCoco are not the first fans of the island. The late Leonard Cohen spent his 20s here in the 60s, writing, performing and taking inspiration from its magic. We challenge you to leave without feeling inspired.

For more information, check out www.phaedrahotel.com or email info@phaedrahotel.com.

Veganism isn’t usually the first thing that springs to mind when a Steak House is mentioned. However, right on the vegan trend is Heliot Steak House in London. We check out their new winter menu.

Named after a lion tamer who used to perform in this building in the 1990s, Heliot Steak House now overlooks London’s Hippodrome Casino. It thus attracts quite an eclectic crowd. A politician, a group of South African businessmen and a young British couple are amongst the diners during our visit.

With the buzzing casino below and the curtains separating us from a performance of Magic Mike, the atmosphere is exciting if a little hectic. Perfect for those who love to people watch, the tiered restaurant tables afford excellent views onto the gaming and the glowing light trees on the ground floor.

We are there to test out the new menu, developed by Ioannis Grammenos and designed to reflect the change in seasons. This means heartier dishes, such as Kakavia fish soup and roast baby chicken with root veg. It also includes Heliot’s very first vegan slider burgers.

I sample the tasty sliders, complete with mojo verde sauce, tomato and vegan coleslaw, and accompanied by some delicious sweet potato fries. My partner opts for the classic medium rare steak with pepper sauce and lobster tail. He says it is one of the best he has ever tasted.

We round off the meal by devouring the cookie cheesecake with caramel sauce and the melting chocolate sphere with spicy dark chocolate sauce. Both are as decadent as they sound.

The Heliot Cocktail Bar is the centrepiece of the space and offers an extensive drinks list. We recommend the quintessential gin and rosemary Casino Sling or the alcohol-free passionfruit and berry Tutti Frutti for those who want to save themselves for the Christmas party.

If you love steak and have a vegan in tow, Heliot Steak House is your best bet – and in the most central of central London locations, Leicester Square, it makes a great choice for a pre-theatre or movie dinner.

For more information, visit www.hippodromecasino.com.

With the UK going vega-ga over Veganuary this year and veganism topping every food trend list of 2018, #TeamCoco has her ears pricked for the best vegan openings of the year. And boy, is there a special place about to open in the capital soon. We sent our very own vegan on the team, Rachael Lindsay, to try every dish in The Vurger Co’s test kitchen so that you know exactly what to expect ahead of this 100% vegan burger bar’s opening on the 24 March…

So I tried Veganuary, and it seems like I am still vegan…I astonish myself as I write this as I always said I could never do it, said I was too addicted to cheese, said that veganism was for crazies and health freaks. But then I tried it, couldn’t get over the health, environmental and ethical benefits, and here I am.

But one of the things I have found the most challenging in becoming vegan is eating out. I am a self-confessed foodie and love trying new dishes in restaurants. So it has been a big change for me to have my menu options limited. Sure, quite a few places now have vegan plates on the menu, but to have a whole menu to enjoy, that is reserved for meat-eaters.

But to my delight, there are veggie-only joints popping up all over London now, thanks to a greater understanding and appreciation of the vegan diet. One of those new openings is The Vurger Co, which is due to open later this month in Richmix Square, Brick Lane.

The Vurger Co has been a stalwart of festivals and pop-ups for a few years now, so it has plenty of fans counting down the days until the opening of their new vegan restaurant on 24 March 2018. And omnivores, don’t panic, over half of The Vurger Co’s loyal customers are non-vegan. There will be shakes, coffee, beer and wine on the menu as well as some seriously, seriously good vegan burgers.

I was lucky enough to try every single burger which will be on that menu. Each one is very different, proving how diverse vegan food can be, and each one is, I promise, ludicrously tasty.

My personal favourite is the Classic which is the vegan take on a classic cheeseburger and is filled with smoky black beans, chargrilled red peppers and drips with melty vegan cheese, some of the best vegan cheese I have ever had. I am also a huge fan of the MLT, mixing borlotti beans and mushrooms with a generous dollop of rocket, sundried tomato and walnut pesto.

The Vurger Co’s traditional bestseller is the Auberger; a smoky aubergine and chickpea patty loaded with tabasco chipotle source and red onion. And for those who like spice, the Holy Habanero is the best choice with its sweetcorn fritter, crunchy spiced almonds, homemade salsa and chilli mayo.

I took my non-vegan partner to try out the vurgers too. Having taken a trip to Burger King the day before and being a self-confessed meat burger lover, even he had to admit that these burgers were pretty damn good.

The owners of The Vurger Co are a lovely, down-to-earth couple who discovered how easy it is to be vegan on a trip to California, and decided to leave their careers in fashion buying and banking to pursue their vegan burger dream. Their enthusiasm for the food they create is infectious, and their determination to make people think of more than portobello mushrooms when vegan burgers are mentioned is something I seriously respect. And rather than feeling threatened by all of the other new vegan places opening their doors in London, they are happy to add something new into the burgeoning vegan scene in the capital.

So go along yourself and see if you love these burgers as much as I do.If you call in, tweet us which vurger is your favourite and how they compare to your favourite meat version at @house_of_coco. We can’t wait to hear what you think! For all our lovely vegan readers out there, check out our other vegan features for mouthwatering desserts, and some of the best vegan eats in Leeds: https://www.houseofcoco.net/the-best-vegan-desserts-to-get-you-through-veganuary/
https://www.houseofcoco.net/plant-based-tastes-5-vegan-vegetarian-restaurants-you-have-to-try-in-leeds/

When it comes to the French Alps, #TeamCoco are familiar with those white winter wonderlands, those hair-raising red runs and, of course, gorging on cheese fondue in a whirling snowstorm. But what on earth happens when the snow melts away? We sent Rachael Lindsay out to the brand new Annapurna in Les Gets, in the midst of summer, to find out.

I have to admit that I expected Les Gets to be a ghost town in summer. Perhaps a few closed ski shops and half-empty tartiflette restaurants. So imagine my surprise when I arrive from Geneva airport on a Sunday morning to find tens of thousands of visitors sitting on the grassy banks of the Alps cheering on some of the best mountain bikers in the world.

I have inadvertently arrived for the final competition at Crankworx Festival, one of the most famous mountain biking tournaments around. In true #TeamCoco style, I join the crowds and my heart is in my mouth while stunt bikers soar through the air from temporary wooden slopes, loop-the-loop against the backdrop of the lush green Alps and bounce back to earth with complete control.

The bars and restaurants are buzzing with bikers, families and locals, all discussing the competition, the shockingly good weather and the latest World Cup win. I quickly realise that the summer season here is every bit as lively as the ski season. And, with mountain biking and other adventurous pursuits on the agenda, I am in for an interesting few days.

But before I hit the summer slopes myself, it is time for some pampering. I check in to the brand new Annapurna residence, perfectly located in the centre of Les Gets, just behind the high street. It comprises a series of apartments with luxurious shared facilities such as a swimming pool, jacuzzi, sauna and steam room and a gourmet restaurant and wine bar on the ground floor.

My apartment is excessively spacious, with three bedrooms, three bathrooms and a large kitchen cum living room, ideal for groups of friends looking for a luxurious base after a day outdoors. The design is alpine chic with chocolate-brown fur throws, pale wooden beams and exposed brick feature walls. I spend the first evening taking it all in, lounging with a glass of champers in front of the huge widescreen TV.

A relaxing evening was certainly necessary before my first morning of mountain biking down the terrifyingly steep slopes of the Alps. I have never tried mountain biking before and I think it is fair to say that it does not come naturally! You take a chair lift to the top of the mountain and, just like skiing, there are ‘green’, ‘red’ and ‘black’ runs for mountain bikers to take back down to the village, so these are verging-on-vertical drops. For all of the #TeamCoco adrenaline junkies out there, this is for you. It certainly gave me new-found respect for the Crankworx professional bikers, as we tried a few ‘bumps’ ourselves. I get through it with my nerves just about in tact.

The afternoon is more my style as we explore a newly-opened cheese farm and a local brewery. At the farm, the friendly French lady and her five daughters know every Alpine goat by name and sell their goats’ cheese at the local market. And the views from the farmhouse are stunning, with lush green meadows and wildflowers everywhere. The brewery, on the other hand, is located in the Irish Pub, and I am at first dubious as to what we are doing there. But after sampling some of the best craft beer I have ever tasted, I understand why this is the bar that everyone flocks to, to enjoy the evening sun after a day jam-packed with adventure.

As well as cheese and beer, I have to mention the fantastic food options at the Annapurna restaurant, Vina Annapurna, as well as the Wild Beets Kitchen and La R’Mize. I expected the food to be heavy on the cheese and meat, the usual apres-ski fare. And although you can enjoy those classic snow-weather meals if you so wish, I enjoy mountain-vegetable risottos, red fruit sorbets and enormous buddha bowls. I finish almost every meal with a local génépi or citrus cointreau.

Day Two and I brace myself for another adrenaline-fuelled start with a mountain climbing excursion, led by a man who was the youngest qualified mountain guide in France, and who is now in his 60s and can clamber up the side of a mountain in a matter of minutes. Thankfully I feel more at home inching my way up a rocky cliff-face than bumping down a slope on a bike, and it is exhilarating to abseil down while appreciating the breathtaking views. It makes me realise that this is what a summer Alps trip is all about – getting out of your comfort zone, trying all sorts of new things and discovering what you enjoy.

Another highlight of my stay is a yoga walk led by a local instructor. The walk leads past fields of grazing sheep and through the dappled light of forests. We pause every few hundred metres to practice tree pose and mountain pose facing the imposing snow-peaked Mont Blanc. It is a delightful way to stretch out after a morning of scrambling over rocks, with the sound of cowbells in the distance and the fresh Alpine breeze on my face.

From watching mountain bikers soar through the air to witnessing the production of home-made goats’ cheese, from sipping on Kir on the mountainside to relaxing in the Annapurna jacuzzi, this trip to Les Gets in summer truly defies every expectation I had. And I wish I can stay a few more days to try the seemingly endless list of outdoor activities here, from rafting and trail running to hiking and swimming in the lake.

And the glory of it all is that you can have a completely different adventure each morning and evening, and head to your luxurious apartment to recuperate every night. If, like us here at #TeamCoco, you are always up for trying something new, be one of the first to stay at the luxurious Annapurna and get out of your comfort zone in the Alpine Resort of Les Gets.

From: 2 bedroom apartment with further cabin, sleeps 6 people, from €215 per night on a self-catering basis including access to the spa and swimming pool.

To: 5 bedroom penthouse apartment, sleeps 12 people, from €430 per night on a self-catering basis including access to the spa and swimming pool.

alpine-residences.fr

With Christmas around the corner, we are all wondering what to get for that person in our life who is oh-so-tricky to buy for, as well as what the #teamcoco pups might like and what beverage is best to bring to the Christmas party. We have done the hard work for you with our tried and tested quick-guide to the best quirky gifts this festive season.

For that four-legged friend: Scruffs® Santa Paws Collection

We at #Teamcoco love this puppy giftset, ideal for your four-legged friend or the dog lover in your life. The Scruffs® Santa Paws Collection is the perfect multi-product gift set for the festive period. A mattress, soft-walled bed and blanket with squeeky reindoor are finished in a soft knitted fairisle pattern, ideal for the festive season.

For more information, visit www.petslovescruffs.com.

For that tricky-to-buy-for person: Emirati Lava Candle

There is a Lava Candle fragrance for every gender, interest and mood, making this the ideal gift for the person you struggle to buy for each Christmas. Lava is our pick over other candle brands because they add that touch of finesse – each Lava Candle is hand carved and painted in the United Arab Emirates to achieve distinctive detail and quality. We love the beautifully named ‘Stormy Desert Pillar’ with its moody dark exterior and earthy notes of nutmeg and cedarwood. And if you don’t want to give one away, the comforting glow of a Lava Candle on a crisp winter’s evening is divine.

For more information, visit www.lavamoments.com.

For that drinks party: Ginking Festive Fizz

Bubbly and delectably light, Ginking is a well-balanced recipe of wine and herbal juniper-led London Dry Gin. Available in four different styles, our favourite is the original rosé which can be found at Marks and Spencer for just £12.99. Ginking’s versatile qualities mean it can be appreciated in a Champagne flute or over ice with rosemary or a citrus peel garnish. Gift it to your G&T-loving friends at the next Christmas bash for a fun, festive alternative to the usual Prosecco or mulled wine.

For more information, visit www.ginking.london.

With its desert-like landscapes, crumbling castles and rocky coves, the Peloponnese in southern mainland Greece is all too often shunned for the sandy beaches on the islands. We sent Rachael Lindsay to one of the most luxurious hotels in the region, the Kinsterna Hotel, to see if this remote area of the country is really worth a visit.

A Byzantine mansion, horse rides, Ottoman fireplaces, red grape body wraps and ruins…

I suppose this isn’t what you imagine when you think of travel to Greece. But I have lived in Greece for almost a year now and am perhaps too familiar with the stereotype of cutesy tavernas, sweeping sandy beaches and azure blue seas. Don’t get me wrong, all of this is lovely stuff! But the Peloponnese is one of my favourite spots in Greece precisely because it eludes such cliches.

I like to think of the Peloponnese as Greece’s wilder alter ego and I haven’t heard of many luxury hotels in this barren, untamed landscape. So I jumped at the chance to experience the five-star Kinsterna Hotel.

The hotel is built on the site of a restored Byzantine mansion near the almost-island of Monemvasia, and tumbles down the hillside with cobbled lanes lined by fir trees. Olive groves and vineyards reach to left and right, and you can smell jasmine at every turn.

The design of the hotel preserves original features and compliments them with modernity. The interiors feature wide stone arches and vaulted ceilings with embroidered rugs and cushions in the traditional Byzantine style. The junior suite boasts an Ottoman fireplace with fur throws, lovely on a cooler night if you visit in autumn or spring.

The sun sparkles on the sea in the distance, brightly coloured wildflowers bloom between cracks in the rock, and a natural cave in the dilapidated mansion is left exposed for us to explore. Somehow the hotel seems to balance luxury with a celebration of the unique Peloponnese landscape.

Even the activities that the Kinsterna Hotel offer to guests are all designed to make the most of this magical space. You can help out with their local production of velvety olive oil and fruity house wine, or grab a bike and cycle round the grounds, or even to the sea for those feeling sporty. One of the highlights of my stay was a horse ride, guided by a half-Australian half-Greek lady who was warm and friendly, telling stories of her horses in this barren but beautiful place.

And let’s not forget about the opulent luxury. There are two large infinity pools, one for families and one reserved for adults…this is where you lounge, contemplate the view and take a few hotdog leg pics. After unwinding by the pool, it will be time to relax in your flawless suite. Each residence boasts huge stone walk-in showers, pretty private courtyards, enormous beds with your choice of pillow and complimentary bottles of home-made liquor.

If you aren’t truly relaxed by that point then head straight for the cooling greys of the Kinsterna Spa. It features indoor and outdoor jacuzzis, a Turkish hammam, rhassoul cabins with heated mosaic surfaces and a tempting relaxation area bathed in sunlight. I opted for the Grape Expectations treatment which involves a vigorous body scrub followed by an anti-aging body mask and a relaxing scalp massage. Unlike those treatments that leave you feeling sleepy and dazed, I feel seriously energised on leaving the Spa, and more than ready to try out the Kinsterna Hotel’s restaurant, Mouries, for a moonlit dinner.

The candles lit at nightfall are oh so atmospheric. The storm that rages around the hotel one night even heightens the feeling that I am in a fabulously romantic Gothic novel. And then the food arrives and it is all I can focus on…the mushroom ravioli made with wild Laconian mushrooms is earthy and creamy, the orzotto with shrimps and home-made tsipouro liquor manages to be both meaty and light and the meat mains of lamb, veal and rooster are tender and cooked to perfection.

The menu changes regularly based on what is available from local producers, all of whom are personally named at the beginning of the menu, from Dimitris who contributes greens and bulbs from the mountainside to Thodoris the baker. Breakfast is also served in the sea-facing Mouries Restaurant at the Kinsterna with a buffet featuring spinach and cheese pies, Greek honey, local cheeses, fresh fruit and hot drinks served in attractive black clay teapots.

Dragging myself away from the hotel (and the food) is a struggle but worth it for an afternoon in nearby Monemvasia. It is a tiny castle town that was carved into the sea rock in medieval times with a paved pathway linking the castle entrance to the mainland. This is where its name came from, meaning ’single passage’.

Wander around the tiny streets of the lower town with its shops and tavernas, and climb up to the upper town for breathtaking views and spectacular ruins. If that leaves you a little sweaty then take a swim off the rocks at Portelo – if you swim out a little then you have an equally wonderful view of the island from the sea. There is nowhere else quite like it, and it really is a world away from touristy Greek package holidays.

So the answer is yes, this remote area of Greece really is worth a visit. If you think you know Greece and have only visited the islands, then try the Peloponnese and the Kinsterna Hotel, and let us know what you think.

As I drive away down a narrow dirt back leading eventually back to Athens, I get the strange feeling that I am leaving a fairy tale behind…

So I make a small promise to myself: I will be back.

Address: Monemvasia, Laconia, Peloponnese 230 70 / 2732 066300