Mena showcased her debut collection at last years Manchester Fashion Festival and since then she has been turning heads – a rising star that is sure to set the fashion world on fire with unique and immensely beautiful pieces. Thank you Mena and welcome to the House of Coco offices…
Who are your fashion inspirations?
The beloved Princess Diana, she embraced the etiquetteness of dressing like a royal, whilst setting her own fashion statements and rules, the sexy sequin blue dress she wore when dancing with John Travolta is my all-time favourite dress she wore. And most importantly, Madonna, and My Mama, Soraya. Their empowered persona, daring sensuality and spirit of fashion is what inspires me.
What’s your go to key piece of clothing?
A dress or top that has definitive shoulder details, anything that shapes the shoulders will frame the face, going with that extra detail like a ruffle.
A Bardot dress makes all the difference to my smile.
How important is it to you that we influence and inspire the youth of today? And what do you do to achieve that job
Everyone is concerned with getting successful results, quick and fast, forgetting that one picture, or one moment, can summaries 10 years of hard work, persistence and perseverance.
By volunteering in pursuit of your passion, by contacting those people who can help get you there and always have belief in the beauty of your dreams.
That’s where you can help others see that it’s all a journey, and we are all students when achieving our dreams. I plan to take on students in my luxury label to hold the legacy of Couture in Manchester, that is so rare in the UK, making it the first luxury house outside of London to produce evening wear in couture by a young designer.
What has been your perfect holiday so far?
Resting and exploring the treasures and culture of Jordan, sleeping in the desert dunes under the clearest night sky and stars, then swimming in the dead sea and being coated head-to-toe in its salty mud minerals. It was all adventure and recognizing a culture familiar to my own, I loved it!
What are your handbag essentials when abroad?
Coconut oil, L’Oreal’s clear eyebrow and eyelash gel mascara, my favourite snack pack of raisins and almonds, Mui Mui’s signature perfume and I never leave the house without at least some safety pins!
Ideal holiday destination
I adore the Mexican guitar, and all that comes with the Mexican City, Cancun. Nothing seems more sensual and story telling than a woman wearing a red asymmetrical flamenco dress in a short, daring length, dancing away on a balmy back- alley of a small local restaurant outside under the night sky.
How do you detox from social media?
Quite simply rid myself of toxic people and their negative energies, their expectations and wealth. Whilst cutting back and adding more fulfilling activities that sometimes, cannot be captured, or even understood, like meditating and being comfortable in your own skin. This is very important to me, the more confidence I have in myself, the more I can create and give to my world.
If you had to have 4 women past or present over for dinner,who would the be and why?
My wise and outrageously funny grandmother who could put a smile to all friends and foe in all situations. The queen of Egypt Cleopatra and queen of England Elizabeth 1, as I’m fascinated by their lives and how they conducted their countries and empire, and history of their time, fashion and art. And then at the end, get Shakira to perform a medley of her greatest hits and the rest of us would sway our hips to dessert. Bliss.
When you were a little girl – what did you want to be?
Archaeologist! – I loved the idea of telling and reading stories of the exhibitions I visited of Ancient Egypt, the history of its people, how they lived, what they wore and discovering their culture. It’s has influenced way I work today and my research.
Working from home or working in a coffee shop?
At home, I am most creative and have my studio to work all day and night to for inspiration and research.
Tell us about a hidden gem where you live!
I have a library of all the books I have read, my parents’ books passed down, from non-fiction to-fiction, it’s not what most expect but it’s my kind of chocolate treat- knowledge is power!
What are your favourite pieces in your current collection
The Madonna dress, look 4 from the Spring Summer 2019 Primavera Collection, that is detailed with star hand embroidered Chantilly-Silk lace and sequin, pearl-beads.
Look 9, the Solstice Yellow Silk-Taffeta rouched dress with its tiered voluminous-ruffle hem and belt wrap bow detail. It’s a celebration to the beloved Princess Diana and Madonna, and My Mama, Soraya.
Their empowered persona, daring sensuality and spirit of fashion is what inspired these dresses, alongside the key details from my Mother’s wedding dress.
How do you balance your busy work life and make sure you get downtime
It’s important to be with the ones who love and support you, along side sticking to the routines that you enjoy and add quality to your life, mine are yoga, family, a good book and drinking feel-good fruit smoothies.
Where do you escape to that’s local?
To my old primary school, Chorlton park, it has the most beautiful cherry blossom trees in the summer, springs up my walks and thinking time.
From Hollywood to Bollywood – luxury brand campaigns to the red carpet – international makeup artist Rebecca Butterworth took some time out to catch up with us on the House Of Coco couch. Beneath the Beauty, she shared insights into her journey and the intricacies of her craft.
Who and what influenced you to go down the road you are currently on?
The road I’m currently on is Director Of Makeup for special effects company, Millennium FX. It’s been a big shift from my former life as a fashion and beauty make-up artist. I’ve always been a ‘behind-the-scenes’ nerd, the first thing I would watch on a DVD (do you remember those?) was the ‘Making Of’ documentaries.
I loved seeing how creatures, monsters and prosthetic make-up was created and how it came to life. Eventually, in about 2016 I decided to actually do something about my interest and took a few courses with some brilliant SFX artists like Stuart Bray and Neill Gorton.
Who are your inspirations and has anyone told you that you’ve inspired them? and how does that make you feel?
My inspirations are people who create because they have to. Alexander McQueen has been a constant source of inspiration to me since my days as a fashion student. It’s boring to say, because it’s been said so many times but his work seemed to me so much more than just ‘fashion’. It felt really necessary. I love to be inspired by artists who make you go “OH. Of COURSE!”; Terry Barber is one of those artists.
The stories that he tells around make-up, whether it’s describing the perfect shade of blush in relation to Princess Di’s ‘shy Di’ cheek flush, or making a Smokey eye look like a greasy spoon breakfast, his way of relating to make-up feels so relevant and necessary. I aspire to Terry’s levels of greatness, he’s really one of the best fashion make-up artists you could hope to work with.
A few people have told me I inspire them and it’s always surprising (you know I’m making this career up as I go along, right?) and always a delight! I’m not sure I’m doing anything interesting or different, I’m just doing the things and creating the images that feel right to me at that moment. You should only do the things that you find interesting, not the things you think other people are going to like.
What are your handbags essentials?
Jo Malone Red Roses cologne. A red lipstick. Alright FINE, six red lipsticks. Umbrella. 10 biros, only 3 of which will work.
What is the best country you’ve visited ? and what is on your lust list of travel?
Can I tell you a bit of a secret? I travel quite a lot with my job, and every time I do, I feel especially lucky and acknowledge the privilege of seeing the world…but I actually really like being at home! I also think that the UK is deeply underrated, I love seeing new bits of the UK on my travels. I was in Lyme Regis on the Dorset coast recently and it was magical!
I’ve spent rather a lot of time in India this year and it’s quite an exceptional country to travel in. There’s so much about it that feels familiar if you’re from the UK but there are enough contrasts and unfamiliar customs to really make you feel a jolt of strangeness when exploring it.
I’ve never visited Japan or the Far East. I think I’d love to go and experience that bit of the world.
In an industry which is constantly expanding what piece of advice would you give to a young person trying to get into this tough industry
That’s such a tough question because I think whatever I answer will be out of date before this article gets published, the industry is moving so quickly!
Social Media and the amount of ‘MUAs’ saturating the market are changing the face of this industry so quickly.
There are so many degree courses now geared towards make-up artistry, whether it’s fashion, beauty or special effects. Not all of these courses are worth your time or your money. Being a good make-up artist is as much about understanding things like colour theory, form, texture and taste as it is about knowing how to colour-match a foundation. Studying art will give you many more transferable skills than simply doing a three-week make up diploma.
The best make-up artists in any field are the ones who are curious, who seek out answers for themselves, who try stuff out even if it goes wrong. They are not the ones that wait to be told the answers. Do not wait to be spoon-fed the information.
Assisting is one way to get contacts, but it’s difficult and doesn’t pay money. Working on a make-up counter can be a brilliant way to get contacts, clients and most importantly experience in applying make-up to other people.
I know that Instagram and YouTube look easy and appealing but if you want to be an actual make-up artist you have to actually be able to put make-up on someone else better than you can do it yourself (please see the whole first series of Glow Up to witness what happens when your talent for self-application exceeds your talent for makeup artistry)
What would you have been had you not done what you do?
I’m not entirely sure, it is known it would have always been something that involves making things, a fashion designer maybe or a textile artist.
What do you do to switch off? and is a social media detox important to you?
I am a lazy bum and I love doing as little as possible in my downtime. I love a history programme or pottering around a National Trust or English Heritage site, thinking about how ace I would have been as a rich Lady of the manor.
I am however almost always on social media, even if I’m not posting, I’m still lurking.
As a businesswoman what key qualities do you think it’s important to possess to balance a hectic life
Haha! If you ever figure this one out, please tell me!
I can only say that I think I’m very lucky that I have a very patient boyfriend and no children. I have no idea how women manage to cope with careers, children and taking on the majority of the mental load of life.
Perhaps the key is the ability to say no and to value your own worth. Both those things are hard and I’m certainly a work in progress but it seems to me the more I put a value on my skills and my time, the more other people do.
What is your favourite food?
Mashed potato. No, popcorn. No, mash…ARGH I can’t decide! Essentially: carbs.
Can you share one of your go-to beauty hacks that our readers would find useful?
Heat your eyelash curlers up with your hairdryer. It’ll transform your eyelashes!
Also, spend time finding a mascara that really works for your lashes, massive volumising isn’t always the best option.
Ever fancied learning the secrets of a supermodel? Well during my recent #TeamCoco mission to Copenhagen with Moxy Hotels, I managed to just that, catching up with Danish export and Victoria’s Secret model Nina Agdal to find out what she loves about the capital and what she misses when she’s in LA…
You grew up not far from Copenhagen; what are your best teenage memories of the city?
I grew up 40 minutes away from Copenhagen but i would visit Copenhagen with my girlfriends for nights out and adventures; we’d get all dressed up, take the train to the city and walk down “Stroeget”, pretending to be cool!
Obviously they are hugely different cities, but do you see any similarities at all in Copenhagen and LA? Honestly, not at all! They are two completely different cities and the vibes are incomparable. LA is awesome, but Copenhagen is a LOT less high maintenance and definitely ‘cleaner’, in all ways.
How often to you get to return to Denmark? I try to get back at least 2-3 times a year, more if I can. It depends on my schedule, but my whole family is there so I always try to make an effort and the time to go see them during summer and before Christmas.
What do you miss most when you’re not here? I miss the energy in Denmark so much! Every time I go back I feel much calmer; it’s just a different mentality. I deal with anxiety and every time I’m home it gets so much better. The pressure and expectations of everything are just normal there, not like in New York where you have to be ‘on’ every second.
Copenhagen has some of the best restaurants in the world, but do you have any foodie favourites that aren’t as famous? Aamans in Oesterbro is known to be one of the oldest open-faced sandwich shops. The hotdog food trucks dotted around the city are the best too so you must have a hot dog there!
What are your favourite Danish foods? There are so many. My grandmother makes tarteletter when I’m home, it’s basically a Danish chicken pot pie and it’s amazing. Any sort of open-faced sandwich and a Danish hot dog!
What would your last Copenhagen meal be? My grandmother’s tarteletter or a hotdog in the airport!
I’m reading a book called The Art of Living Danishly which delves into the theme of Denmark being the happiest nation in the world; what do you think the secret behind Danes’ happiness is? I think life there is just very simple; the lifestyle is very different from anywhere else. Everyone is kind of on the same schedule in terms of wake up times, work times, dinner time, like you wake up knowing what the plan is and you’re happy with it. You also don’t live to work, you work to live. Money isn’t everything and I grew up with that mentality.
What’s your recipe for happiness? Surround yourself with good people who love you for you, have a routine that makes you happy, get a job that makes you excited and do one thing a day for YOU!
Describe Copenhagen in three words HYGGELIGT, clean, happy.
When you visit the London DE website you are instantly blown away by the in-depth knowledge that Phil Spencer and his team have of diamonds, coloured diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires and other precious stones.
Phil showcases each and every jewel on his website so that the customer can see exactly what they are buying. He also provides professional drawings of bespoke jewellery designs before the diamond, emerald or other stone is added to the piece, meaning that every single design is perfected to the customer’s requirements.
We are intrigued to know more about Phil Spencer, and how he got into the world of beautiful diamonds and emeralds.
Q. HOC. Did you start your working life within the jewellery industry, or did you come from a different background, and did you always know that you wanted to work with precious gemstones and jewellery?
A. Phil. Whilst I have always been interested in jewellery and gemstones (and coloured gemstones in particular), I started my formal career as a commissioned officer in the UK armed forces. On completion of that I spent 5 years in financial services but I always wanted to work in the luxury market and I yearned to run my own business. Finally, in 2013, the opportunity arose to strike out on my own and become an entrepreneur in the marketplace I love.
Q. HOC. Can you tell us more about what London DE is all about, as we understand that it’s not just about precious stones?
A. Phil. We’re an ethical jeweller and coloured gemstone specialist. With connections high in the Colombian emerald and Sri Lankan gemstone supply chains, we aim to cut out the middlemen and ensure the integrity of our supply chain. We operate a mine-to-market approach and offer our customers, both retail and trade, a truly bespoke service via our hybrid model. This provides the functionality of e-commerce, coupled with personalised human interaction, both face-to-face and via digital channels.
Q. HOC. You currently have a London office, based in the world-renowned Hatton Garden, and a sales office in Istanbul, why did you choose these locations for your business?
A. Phil. I am a Londoner born and bred but I have travelled extensively and lived and worked in the Middle East and around the globe. For me, London is one of the great fashion, luxury and retail centres of the world. With an outward looking international focus we are building a global brand. Via digital channels we can reach almost everyone on earth but it certainly helps to have a (small) footprint across the major hubs. Istanbul is the first of (I hope) many international sales offices we plan to open in the coming months and years. High on our target list are Dubai, Singapore, Hong Kong and New York.
Q. HOC. Your precious stones and jewellery designs range in price from around £100 to over £100,000 – do you have a favourite piece from your collections that would come in under £100, and do you have a favourite piece that would come in over £100,000?
A. Phil. We offer a wide and ever-expanding range of products from cufflinks and accessories for hundreds of pounds to bespoke engagement rings and other jewellery pieces for up to hundreds of thousands of pounds.
The key to the value of our products lies in the quality, uniqueness and the ethical nature of their supply and manufacture. The same care and diligence go into the creation of a £100 pair of cufflinks as it does for a £100,000 bespoke diamond and emerald engagement ring.
Q. HOC. Do you personally wear jewellery and if so what style?
A. Phil. I love jewellery but my personal taste is for it to be understated. I have a small collection of Tudor watches, I wear two 18K yellow gold rings, along with gold and silver cufflinks. I also enjoy designing small pieces of ladies’ jewellery for my wife. The one thing I have learned in this industry is that there is no right or wrong jewellery, just the pieces that you love!
Q. HOC. Your Instagram @londondande showcases some of your jewels beautifully, do you find social media helps to promote your brand?
A. Phil. Yes, social media, especially Instagram, is becoming a powerful marketing tool within our industry. We have just recruited a highly skilled in-house digital marketeer and a major part of her role will be to develop this channel further.
Q. HOC. What did you study at University, which one did you attend, and has it helped with the business you are successfully running today?
A. Phil. I read Geography at University College London. I chose Geography because I am fascinated by the world around me and I love travel. I think on balance university was a worthwhile exercise, it certainly broadened my mind and opened my horizons to new ideas and possibilities, which helped to lay the foundations for my later business career.
Q. HOC. Did anyone offer you any useful business advice before you launched London DE?
A. Phil. I gratefully received as much advise as I could both prior to launching my business and ever since. As part of our start-up funding programme the GLE (Greater London Enterprise) scheme provided me with a business loan and practical advice, as well as weekly mentorship from an entrepreneur with many decades of experience, which was invaluable.
Q. HOC. Did anyone offer you any bad advice that you followed, and later wished you hadn’t?
A. Phil. As with everything in life, advice comes in many shapes and forms. The vast majority of the advice I have received has been useful but inevitably some has not. Judgement and experience will eventually tutor the entrepreneur towards the best course of action.
Q. HOC. If you were to offer one piece of advice to someone thinking of getting into fine jewellery and precious stones, what would it be?
A. Phil. Understand your market and know your business model inside out. After cash flow, ignorance of ones’ operating environment is the fastest start-up business killer!
Thank you for taking the time to answer all our #BossBoy questions for House of Coco Magazine.
Occasionally #TeamCoco have the opportunity to interview designers that we are huge fans of, and this is one of those rare occasions that we can get to know more about one of our design heroes.
Cael Pipin owns and runs the designer bag company Hemcael, and his latest collections are one of a kind, unique designs that bring to life the meaning of Italian quality.
Hemcael launched in 2010, where Cael Pipin has been designing and producing beautiful bags for the luxury buyer who craves excellent Italian quality with standout designs. We are desperate to find out more about this wonderful bag designer.
Q. HOC. Did you previously work in the leather or fashion industry before launching Hemcael?
A. Cael. Yes, I have produced unique pieces on demand for an exclusive clientele for many years. They asked for original and customised pieces completely made in Italy, and I’ve always loved creating what’s the most feminine thing ever: bags. I had never worked in the fashion industry before launching my own brand, but the varied women’s universe has always fascinated me. And that’s the reason why I decided to embody what I think is the Hemcael quintessential woman, be it wife, partner, friend, mother or daughter.
Q. HOC. At what point did you realise that you were destined to be luxury bag designer?
A. Cael. Looking around, I realised that we are losing the habit of loving very high quality accessories, and, above all, we are losing the habit of giving value to the concept that’s behind the creations we wear, the research of the best materials out there, the artisan’s delicate and experienced touch and all tests to get the best shapes and structures.
The key of the collection is: ‘conquer from within’. Conquer, in Italian, is a verb also used to express the concept of ‘winning someone’s heart’. And with my bags I wanted to do it from within: the interior of my bags, their heart, is as special as their outer. It’s crafted from bovine nubuck or calfskin leather, and no other material is involved for the linings, pockets, or extras, such as the removable pouches. Today luxury means exclusiveness, uniqueness: not just because something appears ‘rich’, it’s a luxury symbol.
The Hemcael bag isn’t just for ‘appearing’, but for recognising yourself in an accessory from which you can get the feeling of craftsmanship, class, research, experimentations. Luxury is not to be shown, because it is made up of details.
Q. HOC. Your collections are eponymous with sculptured pieces that are elegant in design yet easy to wear, have you always been known for strong statement bags?
A. Cael. Yes, I have always created bags that are bold, that not only exude a sense of style, but they also convey strong emotions, they kind of have their own personality. Clothes and accessories are a form of self-expression, and the way we create our outfits impacts how we feel about ourselves, and vice- versa. That’s why I have always tried to create statement accessories, exceptionally crafted for the bold, modern, dynamic woman who’s looking for a direct reflection of her personality. My collection includes high-impact colours, such as rust, the captivating heart of the line, sculptured figures that exclusively result from the natural structure of high quality leather, and extremely detailed and intriguing interiors, which I think are even more important than what’s in the outside. The linings of my bags, completely leather crafted, are what makes them stand out and turn things around, taking the creation from plain to noteworthy.
Q. HOC. Do you have a current favourite bag from your collection?
A. Cael. Yes, my current favorite is Melime, the bag that embodies the soul of the brand in the best way. It represents the sensuous essence of the Hemcael woman, and its outstanding shape makes it unique when women wear it. I imagined a bag that could captivate all women, with its simple yet enigmatic silhouette, that could release the pure Hemcael nature from any detail. The closure is very secure, almost impenetrable, so that your everyday essentials, or even your darkest secrets, can be kept safe inside.
Q. HOC. We are personally swooning over the Aranel, a handbag/adjustable shoulder bag that oozes style and charisma, what goes into designing a bag like this?
A. Cael. Well, first of all, you grasped what the Hemcael concept means, as Aranel was a starting point for the collection. Its timeless and elegant figure is behind every other style. What I’m most proud of in its design is the structure: its shape just follows the sinuosity that the folded leather naturally assumes, and no other material was used to produce it. I wanted to create a classic, flawless, neat silhouette, simple in its sleek touch and yet sophisticated. The combination of calfskin and nubuck leather, alternating for the outer and the lining of the different styles, conveys in the best way my idea of a classy design that relies on high quality materials and elegant style.
Q. HOC. Can we ask when you are at your most creative design-wise? And, where do your design-ideas come from?
A. Cael. When I paint my works, I establish a connection between art and design. My bags are the result of an artistic process that always starts with painting. Art is that place where I take refuge when my being is in conflict with the world that surrounds me, my little bubble, where I can fully be myself. Seeing a woman wearing one of my creations brings strong feelings to me, and this leads me to design new pieces.
Q. HOC. You have recently opened a maison-gallery in the heart of Milan, can you tell us some more about this?
A. Cael. The concept of Hemcael stems from my greatest passion: art. The maison-gallery in Milan is not only a showroom, but also a gallery exhibiting my art creations, my paintings. Fashion and art are intertwined, they have always been connected. There’s no fashion piece without an artistic background. I love expressing my art both on canvas and on fashion sketches, and I do it not only for work, but mainly for myself, as that’s the finest way I express my best self. I wanted to created a wide, clean, minimalist space, where the focus is on the bags, showcased in the first room and shop windows, and on the paintings, for which an entire aisle is dedicated. I found this early 20th century former nuns convent in the heart of Milan and immediately thought it was the perfect place for Hemcael’s headquarters and maison-gallery.
Q. HOC. Do you have any immediate plans to open any more maison- galleries around the world?
A. Cael. Yes, I’m proud to announce a new opening in Bangalore, India, in a partnership with the multi-brand luxury store Galleria di Lux, [earlier this month] on July 27th. The first floor will be dedicated to Hemcael, blending contemporary art and fashion with a concept that’s new for this renowned high-end store with Italian and international brands. We’re planning other new openings, including New Delhi in October.
Q. HOC. Did anyone offer you any business advice before you embarked on becoming a luxury bag designer?
A. Cael. Not at all. I just trusted my instincts.
Q. HOC. What piece of advice would you give a budding designer, someone starting out in the industry?
A. Cael. Try to be yourself, do not copy anyone else, and be very meticulous in every single detail. Be hungry for something new, fresh. Experience new routes and try to find new and not predictable solutions.
Thank you for taking the time to answer all our #BossBoy questions for House of Coco Magazine online.
Woven bags are the latest fashion accessory across the globe, and Thai native Sommy Putthida Hensawang of Above Studio has collated a beautiful collection of baskets and bags for beach and beyond from local artisans around Thailand.
Every piece created is handcrafted from the north to the south of Thailand, where local artisans help to shape and design the rattan, bamboo and woven bags which Sommy then sells at Above Studio.
Let’s find out a little more about Sommy and her business Above Studio.
HOC. What made you get into woven and basket style bags?
Sommy. Having grown up in a rural community and then venturing off to the bustling concrete jungle of New York City, I realized the lack of available sustainable and ethical products didn’t cater to the needs of my lifestyle/beliefs nor the rest of the planet! In addition, the local villagers back home do not have the same access to abundant resources as we do and so because of this fact, I decided that I wanted to be the voice and connector to expose this unique identity and craftsmanship of Thailand to the rest of the world. I designed a series of trendy accessories that would cater to the fashion-forward crowd while keeping our mission of sustainability in mind. Moreover, our local artisans are very skillful in making woven and basket style bags. Hence the creation of “ABOVE Studio” – providing ethical, eco-friendly products to empower our rural communities and rise “above” the occasion that our environment faces.
HOC. From a fashion perspective are you always looking for the latest bag designs to replicate for Above Studio?
Sommy. Fashion is fast and you have to keep it up with the trend. However, I believe that with high quality of our products and customer service that we care the most will make us different from other replicated bags.
HOC. By keeping your bags designed and produced within Thailand you are helping to save the environment, was this something you had considered before working with local Thai artisans?
Sommy. I grew up among nature because my dad’s family has a corn field and my mom family also grows fruit for selling in a province near Bangkok. I have seen those unique beautiful culture and traditional for almost half of my life. This is especially true for the weaving skill and farming skill, of which they acquired authentic knowledge from their ancestors. The artisans I am working with are those from the places I visited during when I was younger and they have been making these local products since then.
HOC. You stock bags of all shapes, sizes and designs and you stay true to the use of bamboo, rattan and woven baskets and bags, do you think you will every use other fabrics alongside your core materials?
Sommy. Yes, I am now using organic cotton from local artisan’s village near our Bangkok manufacturing. Also, I am now considering other local materials that can be used for making our new collection which will be more home decor line.
HOC. Do you have a favourite bag from your online collections at Above Studio?
Sommy. Yes, I love my foldable basket bag since its big and have lots of space and I can also fold it when I am not using it. This is really practical.
HOC. How long does a hand crafted woven bag usually take to make?
Sommy. It usually takes almost 3 weeks. The first 2 weeks will be a process of drying materials and sometimes during rain season we have to wait another week to make sure all of materials completely dry.
HOC. How do you market your brand differently to other fashion accessory retailers, and is it a competitive market?
Sommy. I value our local craftsmanship. The product quality we present and the way we preserve our exotic culture and environment made us outstanding from other competitors.
HOC. What has been the biggest learning curve since you launched Above Studio?
Sommy. Operation can be lots of work and you have to make sure every step by yourself first before you can teach and instruct your people.
HOC. What was the best piece of advice you were given before you launched Above Studio?
Sommy. Do your best.
HOC. What advice would you offer someone who is thinking of setting up an online store?
Sommy. I encourage everyone to follow the dream but just one thing to keep in mind that you will never ever give up.
Designed in Yorkshire and handcrafted in Italy, Maxwell-Scott’s leather accessories are made to last
Maxwell-Scott is a family-run business based in York, North Yorkshire focusing on creating understated, classic bags and accessories to stand the test of time. They commit to quality and great design to ensure every piece is an investment to be passed down generations. Their faith in their own products is evident as each piece comes with a 25-year guarantee.
The brand was started by CEO William Forshaw who was inspired by his mother’s love of Italian handbags and leather goods. Each year his family would holiday in Italy and his mother would bring home handbags that her friends would complement and ask if she could bring them one back on her next visit. This prompted a small handbag exchange business, which eventually inspired William to establish a brand that designed and sold high quality leather goods.
Maxwell-Scott has continued to grow and now sells across eight websites worldwide. As well as expanding throughout the world Maxwell-Scott has also evolved design-wise. From starting out selling mainly men’s classic leather goods they’ve progressed to producing trend-led pieces for men and women.
Their range now includes covetable items that are fashion-forward while maintaining the unrivalled quality at the heart of Maxwell-Scott. New colourways such as hot pink, blush pink and petrol blue step away from the classic colours of black and tan that are associated with the brand and cater to women looking for on-trend accessories. The upcoming A/W 19 collection features chain straps and suede leather; another step into the fashion conscious world.
Maxwell-Scott have recently launched their #MyCityMyBag campaign showcasing how their bags are versatile and can lend themselves to the lifestyles associated with varying big cities; the on-the-go hustle and bustle of London to the outdoorsy elements of Edinburgh. The campaign urges customers to share photos of themselves using Maxwell-Scott bags in their city to their social media using the #MyCityMyBag.
Marvin Nonis is a fashion designer that launched his business, Marvin Nonis UK in 2016, his designs are both beautiful and feminine, and each individual design is easy to wear, eye-catching to look at, and contemporary in design.
The designer himself only ever puts clean flowing designs at the forefront of his mind when embarking on each new season. Marvin Nonis UK collections are accessible to all from his ready-to-wear line, filled with everyday staples, and stunning cocktail dresses which would make anyone feel beautiful, to the head-turning evening dresses that scream sophistication, and his individual special collection; Marvin Nonis has thought of everything.
We were desperate to find out more about this relatively under-the-radar designer, who’s catwalk shows are proving to be huge talking points around the world.
HOC. At what point did you realise that you were destined to be a women’s fashion designer?
Marvin. My initial interaction with fabrics began when I was a very young age. It was later as a teenager I decided I wanted to be a designer.
HOC. Did you previously work in the clothing and fashion industry or was this a 360 degree turn into a brand new sector?
Marvin. I have always been a fashion designer.
HOC. Your dress designs are eponymous with ethereal free flowing delicate materials, do you personally choose the materials that you work with, or do you have a team who source the material for you?
Marvin. I choose all the materials, I do everything.
HOC. Do you have a favourite dress or design from your current collection?
Marvin. Every piece is my favourite design and I love each one, all my new designs, I also love them.
HOC. Your suits are known for being flattering, crisp and stylish, yet always with an element of surprise, for example you added lace to your recent designs, is this one of your signature styles?
Marvin. Yes it is.
HOC. Can we ask when you are at your most creative design-wise; are you a morning, afternoon or evening designer? And, where do your design-ideas come from?
Marvin. There is no time limit, I am creative all day long. My inspirations are from listening classical music.
HOC. Marvin Nonis UK has been at various fashion shows and catwalk shows over recent months, which was your favourite, and where have you yet to host a fashion show that is on your ‘must do’ list?
Marvin. They are all my favourite. We are doing an exclusive fashion show in New York. We have 2 in London all in September, 1 in Scotland and next year Paris.
HOC. What is your immediate plan for Marvin Nonis UK in the next 1-2 years, do you intend on expanding?
Marvin. We are planning to open several shows, most located in the UK.
HOC. Did anyone offer you any business advice before you embarked on becoming a fashion designer, and do you still adhere to that advice now that you are running a successful business?
Marvin. I attended very specialised seminars in the US and Germany.
HOC. What piece of advice would you give someone looking to get into the fashion industry?
Marvin. They would have to learn the subject of the work exactly and then you will have the ability to start.
Thank you for taking the time to answer all our #BossBoy questions for House of Coco Magazine online.
We are smitten with the fine jewellery of Lark & Berry, a London jeweller that was founded by Laura Chavez, which specialises in ethically sourced diamonds, gold and fine jewellery.
Laura’s ethos of using cultured diamonds means that no mining takes place when sourcing each precious stone, and with the added benefit of every diamond having full traceability, this proves that her diamonds will always be conflict-free. This ethos meant that when Lark & Berry launched in 2018 it launched to great applause by jewellery fans and critics alike.
We are desperate to know more about Laura Chavez, her background, and the reasons why she went into the jewellery making business, let’s ask a few questions to get to know the lady behind Lark & Berry.
Q. HOC. You studied in the US at Rice University in Houston Texas, and followed that with an MBA from London Business School, and then on to London Jewellery School, did you always know that you wanted to work within the jewellery industry?
Laura. I’d always loved fine jewellery, but it took me a while to get involved because I didn’t want to be a part of the controversial practices of the mined diamond industry.
I went to London Jewellery School just to learn more and whilst there, I happened upon the science of diamond culturing. I was amazed! The more I learned of cultured diamonds’ sustainable benefits, the surer I became that the only way I was going to enter the luxury jewellery market would be through exclusive use of these superior, environmentally responsible diamonds.
Q. HOC. Can you tell us more about cultured diamonds and why you use these precious stones in your unique designs?
Laura. Cultured diamonds are made in labs which replicate the exact circumstances under which diamonds form naturally underground. This means cultured are chemically and optically the same as mined diamonds, but that’s where the similarities end.
With cultured diamonds, we no longer have to mine, which hurts the whole environment—plants and trees, wildlife and people. With cultured diamonds, we get diamonds that are 100% genuine, enable no human rights abuses and are far friendlier to our planet. And we can price them fairly, too, since they aren’t subject to mined monopoly.
So, upon learning all this, I knew cultured diamonds and stones (all Lark & Berry jewellery is cultured) would be the only way I’d operate. Lark & Berry is the first exclusively cultured designer brand in luxury, and we’re so proud!
Q. HOC. You currently have a London store, and are looking to open in a number of other markets overseas, can you tell us where you are opening next, and why you have chosen those specific locations?
Laura. Yes, our London flagship has been open almost a year now and is doing great, due in no small part to our in-store luxury piercing concept. Lark & Berry is the first designer jewellery brand exclusively using cultured diamonds to have a piercing option in-store. For anyone reading this who’s interested, please book ASAP as we fill up fast!
Lark & Berry is set to launch in Scandinavia in a few months. We’re so happy about it, because that market eats and breathes sustainability—it made perfect sense for us. Additionally, we’re in talks to open pop-up concepts in Los Angeles and New York City and to be placed in other stores as well. We can tell the market wants cultured—our customers here have loved what we’re doing, and a rapidly increasing number of people are looking for a more sustainable option everywhere in luxury jewellery.
Q. HOC. Your designs range in price from around £200 and rise to over £100,000 – do you have a favourite piece from your collections that would come in under £500, and do you have a favourite piece that would come in over £50,000?
Laura. I love a lot of labrets from our piercing collections. Whether you’re into classic yellow gold and cultured diamonds or you want some colour in your life, we have many competitively priced options in our piercing ranges, some of which you can mix and match with each other to have several new looks throughout your week. Our piercings, which you can get in our London store begin at £95 ($120 USD), which include a piece from our 14k gold and cultured diamond capsule collection. Options range up to £450 ($575 USD) for diamond and sapphire adorned larger pieces.
I also wear our Nocturnal Wrap Ring, which is in the £800 range. It pairs well with our new Veto Open Stackable rings. They feature only the finest rubies and sapphires and come in about every colour you can imagine. Those Stackables are in the £300 range, and even without the Nocturnal ring as a centerpiece on your finger, the Stackables can be paired in endless, creative ways to keep you looking hip, fresh and ready for Summer!
And finally, over £50,000, my favourite is definitely our Bow collection, which just won the 2019 JCK Las Vegas Editor’s Choice award in design. This win for Bow shows that cultured diamonds are every bit the equal to mined diamonds. Our Bow suite consists of an 11.6 carat cultured diamond necklace, 2.5 carat cultured diamond earrings, and a 2.4 carat engagement ring and wedding band all set in platinum.
Q. HOC. Do you wear any other jewellery designer/brand aside from your own designs, and if so who?
Laura. I don’t currently wear any other brands, but I don’t rule it out. If and when I do, I will definitely only wear cultured diamonds.
I favour new start-ups that are purely about cultured diamonds. Lark & Berry is the first designer fine jewellery brand using only cultured diamonds and stones, and we couldn’t be prouder. Anyone who debuts with a similar approach, I support their cause!
Q. HOC. Your Instagram @larkandberry showcases your designs beautifully, and you have a huge following, do you find social media helps to promote your brand?
Laura. Yes, social media is of course key for a fashion brand, but I think it’s especially important for one like Lark & Berry. We’ve been called ‘diamond disruptors’ by the press for all the attention we’ve received in our efforts to educate and promote this new, sustainable diamond option.
So, when you’re doing something that’s labelled ‘disrupting,’ it’s incredibly necessary to have great, attention-grabbing social media, as that’s where people are talking about disrupting products. We even have a new, cultured diamonds podcast as well to keep people talking—it’s called The Diamond Disruptor. You can get it anywhere you subscribe to podcasts!
Q. HOC. Do you follow jewellery fashion trends when it comes to your designs?
Laura. At Lark & Berry, we try to always do our own thing. Our award-winning designs have garnered attention for their originality and artistry. But in general, when someone is looking to make the switch from mined diamonds to cultured, I like to think that we’ll have something for everyone, even those really only into classic, traditional design.
Q. HOC. Do you remember your first piece that you made and sold?
Laura. Lark & Berry launched our online store just over a year ago and then opened our London store shortly thereafter. We had several collections, and we experienced immediate success. I can’t remember now what was first, but the Veto line immediately took off, and we were sold out of about half of those pieces for almost 6 months due to overwhelming demand!
Q. HOC. Did anyone offer you any useful business advice before you launched Lark & Berry?
Laura. Not directly—I really wanted to do my own thing and trust my instincts. I have previous experience in the resorts sector in hospitality and then later served in an advisory role to a board of directors in that same industry. I also ran my own restaurant in Argentina for a time. I feel all that experience, coupled with my schooling in North America and London prepared me well to start Lark & Berry.
But throughout my life, my father and grandmother were very influential for me, both very smart people with wise lessons. I’ve also taken inspiration from founders like Steve Jobs and Elon Musk—people who were every bit as visionary and creative as they were successful business leaders.
Q. HOC. Did anyone offer you any bad advice that you followed, and later wished you hadn’t?
Laura. Great question!
Well, the first thing that comes to mind is we had a PR company who didn’t deliver the results we’d hoped for, especially as we knew we had such a unique offering. I’ve found PR companies can be great, of course, but one thing I learned from that experience was to not rush into important decisions like that, so I looked around for an in-house person that was passionate about what we were doing.
You really have to be careful hiring outside companies to work with you, because I think it’s rare that people will be as passionate as your core team members. So I’m really all about promoting from within and giving people already doing great work for you more related responsibility—people that show a true, passion for our cultured diamonds company and causes.
Q. HOC. If you were to offer one piece of advice to someone thinking of getting into fine jewellery designing, what would it be?
Laura. The first piece of advice would be the same for anyone getting into any trade — don’t even do it unless you’re passionate about what you’re doing. You have to love your work, especially something that takes up as much of your time as starting a business or designing — whatever it is. It’s so competitive out there!
And for jewellery, no matter what sector it is one is looking to enter, I would ask people to please look into getting involved with cultured diamonds. Cultured diamonds aren’t just unique — they’re just a clear winner over mined diamonds for so many reasons.
With cultured, we get no human rights abuses or conflict that still happens in some areas, far less harm to Earth as no mining is needed and an equal diamond to its mined counterpart that is often better. Cultured diamonds are routinely Type IIa status, the world’s finest in diamonds. Only 2% of mined diamonds reach this purity benchmark.
The science alone is amazing. I think there’s still a lot of people out there who don’t even know cultured is an option with diamonds yet. I’ve even been the one to tell some people about it for the first time, and I love seeing the amazement on their faces learning of a diamond that through heat and pressure can be created scientifically in a lab, exactly replicating how they form underground.
I’ve also, firsthand, seen gemologists with years of experience not be able to tell cultured diamonds from mined diamonds; seen them admit defeat, because very simply, there’s nothing to tell apart!
Thank you for taking the time to answer all our #GBOGB Girl Bosses of Great Britain questions for House of Coco Magazine.
Specialising in classic, elegant, feminine clothing, Sujata Gazder has been creating beautiful clothes for women who are looking for something special and luxurious without the designer price tag. #TeamCoco spoke to Sujata about the power of fashion, where she finds her inspiration and the importance of following your heart
What was the inspiration and vision behind the Sujata Gazder brand?
For as long as I can remember I have sketched, scribbled, doodled design ideas in my head. I love beautiful clothes. A well fitted garment constructed from luxe fabric can actually change the mood and demeanour of the person wearing it. I found that most mass market fashions fall short in being able to do that and high-end couture is accessible to only the privileged. So, I decided to create a line of clothing that had exciting designs and paid attention to fit, form and feel and offer it at affordable luxury prices.
Was it a ‘lightbulb’ moment or was it more of a slow burning process?
It was more of a slow burning process. I have always loved fashion and growing up in India when bespoke clothing was the norm, I was designing my own clothing from the time I was 10. But I didn’t pursue a career in fashion till after I moved to the US. I was studying music in college at the time and wasn’t feeling “soul-fulfilled” with the path of my career. That is when I decided to take a chance and follow my heart. Although I still love music, I can’t say I’ve ever looked back.
Did you have any fears or worries when launching your business and how did you overcome them?
Oh goodness, I sure did have a few fears about launching my business. I didn’t have a degree in design. I did not have any connections in the industry – I was basically an outsider with no pedigree. But I realized that I could learn all those details. I trusted my own aesthetic sense and creativity. I knew my design ideas were eye-catching…all I needed to do next was to master the many details needed to bring them to life.
How did you come up with the designs and patterns for your label?
I sketch all my own designs, putting ideas in my head down on paper, refining them as I draw them out. Then I drape the more complex designs to create the sample patterns. These patterns are then finessed by my pattern makers to ensure balance and good fit.
Do you have a design process – where do you find your inspiration from?
I get my inspiration from all over. It can be a piece of art or an artist during the visit to a museum or an art show. I am often inspired by a new fabric…the colours and the drape. Currently I am working on some pieces after seeing some beautiful quilts drying on a line with the backdrop of fresh green fields and azure blue skies with fluffy white cotton clouds.
How would you describe your signature style when it comes to your designs?
My signature style is one that epitomises romanticism, timeless elegance and comfort. At the end of the day, one’s garments must fit and feel right, so there is an emphasis on fit and form. I use a lot of luxe fabrics, and old-world embellishment techniques to create very feminine but powerful pieces. To paraphrase Valentino, women wearing my designs do not borrow their personality from the garment they are wearing.
Do you have any favourite designers yourself that influences your style?
My favourite designers are Coco Chanel, Valentino Garavani and Lagerfeld
Looking back to when you were first coming up with the initial business concept, what advice would you give to yourself (knowing what you know now) and would you change anything?
Wouldn’t we all like to know then when we know now! Well, in my case it is a simple but important aspect. If I had the chance to do it all over again, I would have stepped out of my comfort-zone earlier and done more with marketing and PR. My garments have always spoken for themselves but getting brand name recognition is what makes all the difference.
Where are your products made and how often do you change your collection?
All our garments are constructed and finished in the United States. This allows us to control the high quality we seek. All the embroidery or embellishment work is done in India. Currently we come out with just two collections a year- Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter.
Do you have any people that you personally look up to in business and have you been able to use this within your own business?
There are a lot of entrepreneurs I look up to, but none that I know personally. People like Sir Richard Branson, Tori Burch and others come to mind. These remarkable people believed in themselves when few others did. They had a vision for leaving the world just slightly better than when they found it. That has always been my driving force and I am working towards making that a reality.
What has been the most surprising thing that you have learnt about running your own business?
You know the idiom chief cook and bottle washer? Well, I was surprised to find out that as a small business owner you truly must internalize that phrase. Nothing in your start-up is too small to be overlooked, nothing is too big to be tackled.
What do you feel has been the defining moment so far in your business?
My defining moment is more a period than a moment and that came in 2010. That was the year we signed with a sales showroom in New York. I could finally focus on creating and not have to do any sales or any other similar aspects that I was not so comfortable with. Orders began flowing in and life was good. But soon I realized the showroom was cheating me and by the time I was able to terminate the contract the damage had been done. I was out a large amount of money and no viable avenue of revenue. That was when I realized how important it was for me to embrace every aspect of my business. What I didn’t know I learned. What I was uncomfortable with I worked at getting better at. Today I know what I am good at and I hire the right people.
How would you describe your typical customer – how excited do you get when you see your designs on celebrities and showcased at fashion shows?
Our typical client is the woman who is elegant, understated, youthful in spirit, and effortlessly chic. That kind of woman is ageless and cross-cultural. And it is certainly very exciting to see my designs on celebrities and in fashion shows. In the fashion industry, let’s be honest, the more endorsements you get the better it is for your business. If a celebrity like Kylie Jenner starts a makeup line, the product will fly off the shelves. When Kate Middleton wears a specific piece from a designer that garment sells out in minutes. So, the more publicity I get the better it is for my business.
You were named as one of the ‘Rising Stars of Midwest Fashion’ – how important are these accolades to you and how do you think they have helped you in business?
Again, accolades help business. It adds to the “legitimacy” of the label. The more you are recognised the more the consumer tends to want to trust the brand.
If you could describe your brand in five words – what would they be?
Elegant, timeless, luxury, quality, exciting.
What steps does the world of fashion need to make to become more sustainable and why is there such a ‘wear it, throw it’ culture worldwide?
I don’t think it is just the UK that has this “wear it, throw it” culture. It is a mindset that is prevalent across the globe. With the rise of the affordable and fast fashion consumerism is at an all-time high. These clothes are affordable for many reasons – fabrics are not high end; construction (sewing and finishing) is basic; fit and form are not the focus of these garments; there is not complexity of design; and they are not made to last a long time. Also, with the rise of social media the consumer is bombarded with new fashions all the time being endorsed by various influencers. The need to be in vogue is raging.
To begin, the fashion industry needs to reduce it massive environmental footprint. We can begin with regenerative agriculture, organic cotton, living wages for those who work in the supply chain and reusing fibres from both used and discarded garments and scrap materials.
Along with the physical actions the industry should take to become more sustainable, there has to be a worldwide movement to gradually have all consumers care about the global impact of consumerism, and this burden does fall on influencers and all marketing in general.
What’s next for you Sujata and your fashion line?
My vision is to develop Sujata Gazder into a lifestyle brand that not only delivers high quality luxury at affordable prices, but also to begin a program to give back to the community. We are also working to lessen our environmental footprint. Over the next few years I would like to add accessories to our product line such as shoes, handbags and jewellery.
What advice would you give to budding entrepreneurs, particularly to those wanting to launch a fashion label?
If you believe in your vision, then go for it. Don’t let anyone convince you it’s going to fail. Starting a business is not for the faint of heart- it is long, hard work, frustrating at times peppered with moments of fear (of not succeeding). But if you have a good work ethic, believe in yourself, provide a product or service that is worth the money you are charging then know that you will be successful. And to those looking to start a business I would also say “have patience”. Have the patience to set a good foundation for your business. Be patient and learn your industry. Patience enables you to execute your dream in a way that will have you making fewer mistakes and see faster successes.
